Rusty headlight bucket repair/replacement

[rickrick]

I have a rusty headlight bucket that I believe will need to be replaced and I would appreciate any tips on the process. I have seen replacement buckets somewhere in the past but cna't remember just where it was now and was wondering if this is a reasonably basic task or something that needed to be tackled by a pro. Could the retaining bolt in the bottom be the only thing securing the bucket?

-thanks
-rick

[gruen911]

Rick,
You can buy just the headlight bucket. Tweeks, Performance and a few of the other parts catalogs carry them. You need to cut your old rusty one out and weld the new one in - and hope it's a perfect fit.
As for the retaining screw, the rim of the headlight housing unit fits behind the metal lip around the headlight bucket area. The mounting screw at the bottom simply creates the tension necessary to hold the headlight in place around the metal lip. If the metal rim of the headlight bucket is rusty or damaged, you will need to replace it or repair it. Otherwise the headlight unit will not stay secured.

[Zeke]

The bolt in the bottom of the bucket is not the only thing holding it and, IIRC, not all 911's had that bolt. Some buckets aren't even pre-drilled for that bolt, if any are. The buckets are attached to the fender ala spot welds. You will most likely find rust on the rim of the fender where it is rolled to make the hole for the bucket. I'd be pleasently surprised if you are able to replace the bucket with no additional work required.

When installing the new bucket, you can use pop rivets if your are not a concours guy. Only needs about 4 thru good, solid metal. I like to use a polyurethane body seam sealer on parts like that which are joined. Everything needs to be real sanitary with no rust and primed before applying any caulk (which is all it really is).

[thestocksguy]

With composite headlights, the ones where you screw in the bulb, you must open up the housing. Hopefully you have a glass front to the headlight - plastic will not do.
The 'bucket' must be metal to tolerate the separating method proceeded to now.
To Get Into the bucket that invriably rusts to nothingness, you remove anything that will melt, and then place the bucket/glass item in the oven at 450* for two hours......
You want to 'fail' the mastic glue that is preventing you from separating the glass & steel from each other. Once the alarm goes off at 2 hours, turn off the oven and let cool for 2 hours. CAUTION: EXPOSING THE GLASS TO A COOL BREEZE WILL CRACK IT INTO A BILLION PIECES (as my first attempt).
Once cooled, the metal bucket can be brought to your local Hi-School where a Glovebox (sandblaster) is used to remove ALL rust (bribe the Teacher with a jar of honey). Then just prime the interior of the bucket with Black Krylon Primer, and then use the Chrome-Spray paint from another rattle-can so it will really reflect light. Avoid the area where the glass goes, that has to be primer. I use a two-part JB WELD to attach the glass to the bucket, and close ALL rusty holes, weep holes, and to replace the bulb spigot that may need to be reset.
My specimen was from a 1986 Nissan Stanza Wagon, National listings started at $100 for
used - expecting the same problem - sooner or later - so repaired for $8.00 and time.

-P-4258065209

[merbesfield]

I replaced the bucket in my 68. I would recommend finding a donor vs repop part as I have heard from others that the repops are not exactly the same. I had to R&R my bucket to allow room/access for a repair to the front corner of my original fender I drilled out the spot welds, removed the bucket, cleaned up the area, and re-installed the bucket. It was actually one of easier repairs I have done. If the part is not exact it will be much more difficult.

PS never heard of installing a bucket w seam sealer. I did use it after all factory welds were back in place. The factory did not use it originally. They sprayed schutz, poorly, in the area. Mine will never rust again with seam sealer first followed by schutz.

[Esposito]

Rick, changing a headlamp bucket in a 911 is not a simple task.
Is the entire bucket rusted through?
If not, maybe it can be patched?
Othrwise, I would take it to someone that has experience with them.
I can't tell you how many buckets I've replaced because they weren't installed correctly.

[robmog]

Try here for my DIY
http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...et-replacement

[thestocksguy]

I have a rusty headlight bucket that I believe will need to be replaced and I would appreciate any tips on the process. I have seen replacement buckets somewhere in the past but cna't remember just where it was now and was wondering if this is a reasonably basic task or something that needed to be tackled by a pro. Could the retaining bolt in the bottom be the only thing securing the bucket?

ANSWER:

With composite headlights, the ones where you screw in the bulb, you must open up the housing.
Hopefully you have a glass front to the headlight - plastic will not do.
The 'bucket' must be metal to tolerate the separating method proceeded to now.
(The Rusty Condition of the bucket is why you are at this stage for repair).
To Get Into the bucket that invariably rusts to nothingness, you remove anything that will melt from the glass/bucket,
and then place this item in the oven at 450*F for two hours......
You want to 'fail' the mastic glue perimeter that is preventing you from separating the glass/steel from each other.
Once the alarm goes off at 2 hours, turn off oven and let cool for 2 hours.

CAUTION: EXPOSING GLASS TO COOL BREEZE WILL CRACK IT INTO A BILLION PIECES (as with my first attempt).

Once cooled, the metal bucket can be Jingerly pried apart from the glass, take your time working the perimeter, then
brought to your local Hi-School where a Glovebox (sandblaster) is used to remove ALL rust from inside the bucket
(bribe the Teacher with a jar of honey). If pitting is so sever that you need to level interior surface, I use JB weld 2-part
and do a little 'body work'.
Prime interior of bucket, @ 65-70*F, with Black Krylon Primer - let dry - second coat - let dry. Scuff with 320 Grit, then
rattle-can Chrome-Spray paint so it will really reflect light. Avoid the Framing Area Where The Glass Beds......
that has to be scraped down to steel. I use a two-part JB WELD to attach the glass to the bucket, and close ALL rusty holes,
weep holes, then replace bulb spigot bedding that has to be reset.
My specimen was from a 1986 Nissan Stanza Wagon, National listings started at $100 for used - SO, expecting the
same problem sooner or later - I made a repair for $8.00 and time. Looks like I will have to do the other one to
EVEN THE INTENSITY of the repaired.
-P-4258065209