I was at the local PCA event and "Sepia" looked great, best I have seen it! I guess that is why I could never be a Concours Judge , I never noticed the worn lug nuts. See you in Traverse City Candyce!
I was at the local PCA event and "Sepia" looked great, best I have seen it! I guess that is why I could never be a Concours Judge , I never noticed the worn lug nuts. See you in Traverse City Candyce!
Mike Fitton # 2071
2018 911S Carrera White
2012 991 Platinum Silver ( Gone)
1971 911T Targa Bahia Red (Gone to France)
1995 911 Carrera Polar Silver (Gone)
No Affiliation with City of Chicago!
What are the unique characteristics of a 1973S? I need to create a story board describing Sepia, maximum 1200 words. I don't have the words. The car is just a simple S ... no radio, no sunroof, no air conditioning, no driving seats. It does have some extras, nothing fancy, listed on the CofA to include.
In 1973 the 2.4 engine was introduced. What is a 2.4 engine?
Sepia has MFI. I think that has something to do with the carburetor and it shoots fuel into the engine.
And, Porsches in 1973 had two batteries to balance the weight. Are the dual batteries unique to a '73 S?
For sale ads and auction descriptions for a '73S probably have "flowery" descriptions to use. Before I started the car, I sold the sales brochures thinking I would never need them. Dumb move on my part. I donated all of Jim's Porsche books to the library. Another dumb move. I guess I will need to check them out.
Parts of the personal story will be included. Is that appropriate? The story is unique.
What other things should be included? Like everything to do with this car, I am in way over my head!
If I don't do my homework, this could be embarrassing,
Candyce
'73 911S, #9113301365
Early S Registry #2027
This is such a fun thread. I always like helping nice people that are really looking to learn.
First, "2.4 engine" is the 2.4 liter engine found in 1972-1973 Porsche 911's. You happen to have the 911S version.
MFI is the mechanical fuel injection unit your engine has. It is not carbureted!
More to come from others, I'm sure!
Peter Kane
'72 911S Targa
Message Board Co-Moderator - Early 911S Registry #100
Definitely include your unique story. Most folks will be most interested in those kind of details.
Joe Hartman
Early 911S Registry #157
R Gruppe #174
356 Registry
The unique part about your car is the story Candyce. Sell the uniqueness of your car, not the model I say.
There are not many things singularly unique about a 73 S, but many regard it as being at the zenith of early 911 development. It's one step down the podium from the 73 RS,
I've just prepared a story board for the fmaily 356 which was purchased by my late father in June 1961. We still have the car, and it will be out at Sydney Motorsport Park for Rennsport Australia this coming weekend.
Justin
You will do fine, I have confidence. You also have the help of many very knowledgable folks here. The 73S as mentioned was the zeinth of Porsche motor cars at the time for street cars. The RS was, is, a very limited production model. The S had the most horsepower and was the fastest production P car to ever come out of the factory. Zero to 60 in 6.5 seconds I think. It is the last Mechanically Fuel Injected Porsche to be produced. No fluff, just pure Porsche driving experience. I bought my first S in 79 and knew it was THE car to have back then and nothing has changed. I am sure others will know more details, but this is the car to have behind the RS. IMO
Mark Erbesfield
2018 911 Carrera T 7spd manual 😊
1973 911S #9113301282
1957 356A #58648
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
1982 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1977 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1972 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FST (Factory Soft Top)
1971 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 “Patina Queen”
1979 MB 450SL "Dad's old car"
2019 Cayenne "Wife's car"
You will do fine, I have confidence.The unique part about your car is the story Candyce. Sell the uniqueness of your car, not the model I say.Definitely include your unique story. Most folks will be most interested in those kind of details.
Thanks guys for the great advice and encouragement. Not knowing much about the mechanics nor the early history of the 911, I will write a short, simple description of Sepia. The other day, I didn't even know what to call a hose clamp ... embarrassing. Should have known that one.
The focus of the story board will be the personal story ... all the little vignettes. The real story is the kind people helping me out.
it really is all about the people,
Candyce
'73 911S, #9113301365
Early S Registry #2027
While the car was at a PCA event, the engine judge said, "Something is spraying oil at the back of the engine compartment ... the area towards the back seat. The car was checked out today, and it needs an oil sending unit. Feeling strongly that I need to understand what is going on with the car, I researched oil sending unit on The Registry, Pelican, and Stoddard. Came to find out there are three--temperature sending unit, oil pressure sending unit, oil tank sending unit. There could be more. When the term oil sending unit is discussed, which one is it?
The oil gauge tends to bounce around. It doesn't register until the car is up to temperature. I observe it carefully, and if it goes down, I pull over and add half a quart of oil. I worry about adding too much oil.
Thank you,
Candyce
'73 911S, #9113301365
Early S Registry #2027
The three oil related gauges-
-Oil pressure
-Oil tank level
-Engine/oil temperature
On my 73 S I discovered that the oil pressure sending unit mount was leaking. It is located center of the engine, at the back. It is a small threaded mount that is attached to the engine, that the oil pressure sending unit is attached to. It required new crush washers. I used a 17mm wrench to remove it after removing the air cleaner assembly.
Haasman
Registry #2489
R Gruppe #722
65 911 #302580
70 914-6 #9140431874
73 911s #9113300709
Candyce,
The one that tends to leak is as Haasman stated above, the Oil Pressure sending unit located under the aircleaner in the middle of the engine.
I am a bit concerned about you're interpretation of the oil level gauge. Due to our cars being what is referred to as "dry Sump" most of the oil is stored in the oil tank on the right hand of the engine. Not at the bottom of the engine as in most cars.
Because of this system the oil level can only be read once the car has achieved normal operating temperature and is at idle, since when the engine is at higher RPM the oil is sucked out of the tank and is in circulation. You should ignore the oil level gauge when driving and when the engine is cold, in those circumstances it does not register the true oil level.
If you have been adding oil when you see the oil level gauge drop your tank might be overfilled and the leak you are seeing is actually overflow from the breather. So....
Drive the car until it reaches operating temperature, (the line about 1/3 of the way up on the oil Temp gauge which indicates 180 degrees C).
Park the car on a level surface and while the engine is still running check the oil level at the dipstick in the oil tank. Be careful that you reinsert the dipstick into it's holder in the oil tank neck as it is easy to drop into the tank. As long as the oil level is between the two lines on the dipstick you are ok. Don't fill it to the top line.
If it registers past the top line you should suck excess oil out of the oil tank because excess oil will drain to a hose under the air filter which, if connected properly will drain to the ground.
David
'73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs