2.2E Mild Upgrade. Short stroke or long? Opinions Please!

[MarkS]

Your concern with twin pluging to much $ is easily remedied by using an older Electromotive set up @ least for time being. I see these on this FS board as well as the bird all the time in $600 range. I have been running these for the last 15 years on track and street and never have had a problem.

[raspy2point2]

Hi Marc-- Nice Blue--Do you know if your paint used was Glasurit or PPG or what? My car was originally Ossi Blue but keep it to more of the factory shade, I am thinking to go the Early Gulf Blue route becaus todays paint tend to make colors darker than the factory had back then. Chris

[wagonboy]

Hi Chris
It's Glasurit paint. I'll PM you with a few more details and a link with more pics.

[gumby1953]

Forest thru da trees,

Yo Marc,

Seems you really do know what you want ....you have clearly done some homework as to what you think you want for your Porsche power-plant.

Try this out..........

If your engine is still apart, do the safe things: bearings, chains and valve train. Leave the Pistons alone unless you can come up with some used "S" stuff (cams and Pistons) new rings are pretty cheap!

Buy a nice open Muffler. There, the engine is done!!

Now use the money you saved and put your car on a "Diet: Replace the bumpers, hood and deck lid........ throw the stock interior into a storage space and buy Fiberglass!!

Tony at Autobauhn will sell you perlon carpet (like RSR) and its really cheap in the scheme of things. Change your windows (not windshield) to Plastic. Remove anything you don't need, yes even the Radio!! You can pull off more than 200lbs if you have a little time.....and you don't need much money to do all of this. You probably still have enough paint from the first round to re-paint the new glass parts. Drop some big weight and dump the doors!!

Here's the gain.....the motor sounds (Bursch Muffler) just like you really did all the trick stuff and you are just as quick because of the weight saved. In real racing, 100 lbs is worth about a second a lap on an average track!! Are you over weight?.... go on a diet and your still saving money and you are going quicker and faster every pound you lose!!

I have built many LS and SS engines in a million configurations and anybody can argue which one type is better.... they are all good for the purpose being used! I can tell you want to do something "Trick" but "TRICK" cost a bunch of Money!

Go ona diet,

Kevin Jeannette Gunnar Racing

[wagonboy]

I wanted to thank everyone who was kind enough to take the time and reply to my thread. Over the last few weeks I've managed to cram some more knowledge in the old cranium between the ears which is always good. I picked up a used copy of Anderson's book and read it much like I read magazines - I pick out the stuff that catches my interest first and jump around all. Probably read about half of it so far. It's the older edition (2nd) but the price was right and it's good enough for my purposes.
The engine config. is pretty much decided on now. Hoping to have the car on the road before Christmas. Once finished I'll be sure to post some more pictures.
Thanks again!

[lkadams]

Marc et al

Great thread - good future reference. I put a 69 911E motor in my 69 912 and would love to make a 2.5SS twin plug out of it when the time (and $$$) comes!

[wagonboy]

Decided to update the old thread. After 30 months and many delays, I finally got my new toy safely home. I went for a stock look right down to keeping the same "E" colour engine cover. After going back and forth and getting lots of advice, the engine ended up becoming a 2.7RS spec for the most part. 7R casings but no oil cooler at least for the moment. It's cooler where I live and the temps haven't pushed past 180. It's still smokes a bit on start up - am told that Nickies do that for a while and at the moment the engine only has 750 miles on her. I know that it was a long time coming but I did promise a to post pictures when I finally got it all home. So here they are - enjoy.
PS. Not a great photographer but I'll take a few more this weekend and maybe post em over on the "show your ride" thread.

[Reza]

Congrats! Looking great.

[lkadams]

Sorry for digging up ancient threads (but there's so much good info in these). I have found a couple that have similar questions to mine, but not quite identical.

I am rebuilding a 2.0E motor running Webers. I plan to stay with the E cams and the 66 mm crank, likely headed for a 2.2/2.3 displacement (84 mm or 86 mm). Keeping single plug ignition (so keep the CR below 9.5:1). I detonated a piston on the drive to LA for Luft4, so new P&Cs are on the books. But this isn't an unlimited $ rebuild. Car is not a racer, just a spirited cruiser.

My question is for the heads (since I will have to replace my 2.0 heads with 2.2/2.4 heads). By bumping up the CR and displacement (a little), is a lot lost by running T/E heads as opposed to the larger port S heads? Or does it just alter the characteristics of the engine to move the torque peak down lower at the expense of some peak hp.

In other words, does it essentially act like a stock 2.2E motor with a little more oomph from the CR boost, or is the CR boost lost due to the heads?

Thanks!

[edmayo]

In my opinion you should use the smaller port T/E heads with the 'E' cams. It would do no good to run big port 'S' heads with a short duration 'E' cam, all the big ports would do is lessen your port velocity in the 'E' cam's more favorable range, and in the higher RPM range the big ports would be no benefit with a short duration cam. The C.R. comes with a piston dome designed for the heads you have and the C.R. you want. You will not really know what your C.R. ratio is with out knowing head and piston dome c.c. and doing the math. It is not necessarily what it says on the piston box. And NEVER EVER mix and match non stock combinations without clay checking piston/ valve clearance.