1974 Carrera Restoration - Family owned since 75

[oemexp]

Here is one of the case halves with perimeter sealer, locktight to support the mains from shifting and redline assembly lube. This is a new 3.2L case (no strainer plate at bottom) that has been line bored and squared up in every way possible.

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Now both sides are all ready to be mated. You may notice the dowel pins at the center main bearing. This case was originally prepared for a very high reving 3.0L race engine project. I donated it for the Carrera since I went all water cooled GT3 RSR for racing. I would show more pictures of the inside of the RSR water pumpers if the name of the site wasn't early 911 etc.

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The case is sealed and torqued! Time for a Sierra Nevada brewski (I would say miller time but I have to support my CSU Chico ties)!

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Here is the motor during piston / cylinder installation.

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My last picture before retiring this motor build is the stack of heads. The top row are the original Carrera heads. The bottom row are seriously worked and rebuilt 3.2L heads intended for this motor. You get the drift from the size of the ports between the two. Now that's what I'm talkin about! You can see the threaded injector port in the intake of the one closest to the camera.

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[Mr9146]

My last picture before retiring this motor build is the stack of heads. The top row are the original Carrera heads. The bottom row are seriously worked and rebuilt 3.2L heads intended for this motor. You get the drift from the size of the ports between the two. Now that's what I'm talkin about! You can see the threaded injector port in the intake of the one closest to the camera.

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Curious that you didn't weld up the original injector notch in the intake port of the 3.2L heads. How are you going to seal that area if you plan to run MFI throttle bodies? Turbo intake spacers and then plug the original injector hole?

[oemexp]

Good point. I have 1/8" spacer plates that can block off the opening. However, the void under the spacer causes a big flow disruption in the head. If it was a race motor, I would have welded it up. As a street motor, I don't see it doing anything terribly detrimental. I'll likely be in jail by the time it runs out of flow.

[peekaboo]

Thx for the look at the repo. duck. I see a a couple things , but that's the closest repo. I've seen to date

[oemexp]

I'm restoring a U.S. car too. Will be original Bitter Chocolate with gold script and Fuchs.

Aaron,

Is it the car on the front page of your web site? Feel free to post a picture.

[oemexp]

Thx for the look at the repo. duck. I see a a couple things , but that's the closest repo. I've seen to date

Your welcome.

The opening at the grill needs to be opened up to show radiused corners. Other than that, it looks very close to me. Here are pictures of the crashed OE 74 US ducktail that I previously bought for comparison.

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[Flat Six, inc.]

Aaron,

Is it the car on the front page of your web site? Feel free to post a picture.

Nah, that's a '77 Carrera 3.0...I'll probably post pics at some point.

[oemexp]

Aaron,

I just looked more at projects you have posted on your site - Very nice!

I'm just a private car owner/ home shop inspired by projects you and others have done. I have crewed, designed and developed race cars as a Race Engineer from the late 70's through 1990 in IMSA, Trans-Am, Indy Cars and F1 so I have clear ideas about race performance work but the street car restoration area is a little new to me. Fast turn highest performance per $'s and time invested have been replaced by fit and finish concerns.

[Flat Six, inc.]

Thanks..the site doesn't get updated much. I've been adding to my Facebook page though...much easier...

Looking forward to seeing your Carrera done.

Aaron

[Mr9146]

Good point. I have 1/8" spacer plates that can block off the opening. However, the void under the spacer causes a big flow disruption in the head. If it was a race motor, I would have welded it up. As a street motor, I don't see it doing anything terribly detrimental. I'll likely be in jail by the time it runs out of flow.

By raising the throttle plates you will be altering the geometry of the fuel injection linkage; I hope you have the protractors and spec book to set it right when you go to make it run. Otherwise, you'll run into all sorts of fueling issues.

That said, since you're going to be upsetting the apple cart already, I would seriously consider using more than an 1/8" spacer under the throttle bodies. Thinking in terms of a factory high butterfly throttle body setup it would be easy to make a set of taller spacers (or use the Turbo injector blocks) and, in effect, create your own home-grown version of high butterfly fuel injection. Then you just use the protractors to get the fuel injection back into synch.

Just something to consider...