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Thread: New reproducton parts vs original

  1. #1

    New reproducton parts vs original

    There are a number of hard to find parts which are now being reproduced very accurately at what would seem reasonable prices. I have quite a few parts which i know to be original eg muffler skirt, 67S chrome armrest caps, pudenz fuse packs etc.
    Are these parts now less desirable than their new repros, more desirable or equally desirable? Are they worth more or less or the same as repro items?
    Is it even worth mentioning they are original?
    In twenty years how are we going to keep track of the date of manufacture, 1973 or 2011, of these items on our cars? Will it matter?
    Does the date of manufacture of parts such as these on our cars affect the value of the car? Will we turn our noses up at these parts in the future like we do now on say replica Fuchs?
    Appreciate your thoughts

    73E (home after 25 years) and sold again
    Early S reg. #681

  2. #2
    I was wondering the same thing the other day. how will collectors in the future (say 20, 30, 40 years from now) identify distinguishing features to be able to tell repro from original. not thinking necessarily from price (buy and sell) but also for museum or collection purposes.
    Harry Hoffman
    1968 912 #3656, burgundy red 'Fritz'. Some mods..
    912 Registry charter member #912R0195-C
    Early 911S Registry Member #2070
    356 Registry Member #36691

  3. #3
    If they are truly replicas then I don't have a problem with this if we are talking about trim and mechanical parts. If the intent is to defraud then I have a problem with that.
    1968 Coupe
    901/10 with 2.2 Ps and Cs
    7s on all corners
    Now Sold

  4. #4
    I don't think anyone is trying to defraud on the parts I am thinking of.
    There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this and other forums who are experts in pointing out genuine parts on our cars (particularly cars for sale) and they can describe minutia including part numbers, date stamps, makers marks and other original features which seem to matter a great deal. I don't know if this is 'showing off' knowledge or a genuine attempt to point out what is an original piece or not. The makers mark and date stamp of certain parts seem to matter a great deal NOW and I just wonder if the producers of today's reproduction parts would be proud enough of their work to put a makers stamp and date code on their pieces to help future generations decode what is original or repro. After all we are very quick to say 'that piece is not original to that car because it has the wrong date stamp' just now. Why not carry on the tradition?

    73E (home after 25 years) and sold again
    Early S reg. #681

  5. #5
    in my case i wasnt talking about defrauding either.. i was questioning how will collectors and historians be able to tell the difference for collections and restorations using all original items -especially since they are being made with such accuracy these days
    Harry Hoffman
    1968 912 #3656, burgundy red 'Fritz'. Some mods..
    912 Registry charter member #912R0195-C
    Early 911S Registry Member #2070
    356 Registry Member #36691

  6. #6 advtracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Auckland , New Zealand
    I just wonder if the producers of today's reproduction parts would be proud enough of their work to put a makers stamp and date code on their pieces to help future generations decode what is original or repro.

    just what i plan to do with my parts as i never want them palmed off as original.
    John Gausden
    Auckland, New Zealand

    (shipping carson,CA)
    ST-Classic Facebook
    "Funding my obsession one nut at a time"

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by 210bhp View Post
    After all we are very quick to say 'that piece is not original to that car because it has the wrong date stamp' just now. Why not carry on the tradition?

    Does anyone have insight into the 356 world? It seems that they have been using repops for far longer now. Not having any 356 experience, I'd venture the 911 world won't be affected any differently. There will still be those that can differentiate original from even the best repops. In 100 years, who knows....
    I am a speculating fool. The emperor said so.

    -Dusty 70S Coupe
    -Period Parts Whore of the Illuminati
    -S Registry #586

  8. #8

    People keep teeling me to take the original front and rear hoods off my GT and put after market stuff on...but I just can't do it. Just call me crazy!

    1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 48 years.
    1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 8 years.
    1970 914/6GT,, (For Sale-On Hold, just accepted to Rennsport VI)owned 30 years.

    Photography Site:

    Pushin' back the hands of time, "Along For The Ride" at,

    Registry #983
    R Gruppe #741

  9. #9
    Senior Member Soterik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Seattle WA
    Let's start to split a few hairs here if only to delve deeper into this.

    On the surface I believe that the original parts still matter to those that want them, particularly NOS parts. I was disapointed when the first Cibie hood lights came out as I had quite a stock of originals. However I have come to find that these lights are still worth quite a bit to those who want the originals. There is also a bit of difference between OE and the repro's. I bought a pair of the repro's and still kept my originals.

    In terms of other items, we have to keep in mind what we term original. The Pudenz fuse pack was mentioned. Well that item was available from the original manufacturer right up till the mid 90's, went away till Carl made his, and now actually you can buy the original once again. So... what "original" one do you have Mike? Did you buy your car new and it came in the tool kit pouch, or was it in the car when you bought it. Do you really know where it came from or are you guessing? Could it have been purchased in the early 90's and found it's way into your car?

    Do you all know that there was a reproduction of the key pouch that Carl redid (not picking on Carl here at all, he's done a gorgeous job on all his items and has done one for me as well that's not yet to market... so it's just a co-incidence)? Yup, the repop of the original key pouch was done in the late 70's... so perhaps the NOS one you bought was just one of those repops.

    There was a repop of the 380mm steering wheel as well in the 70's.

    Let's go a bit further. The concern here appears to be the bits that bolt on. Well, how about the sheet metal parts that get used to fix all of our cars. If we don't get an NOS part from Emory or somebody else like Freisinger, then we get it from Stoddard or Restoration Design. Is there "any" concerns on those parts, or do we discount that and weld them in "correctly" so that you can see the difference from OEM, put the original type Schutz on it.. and then stick "only OEM" parts back on the car and call it original? We all raved about Alan (Canford Classics) restoration of a car that went back down to almost the vin plate and then back up. IF he used only OEM trim bits, then what is that car? Not picking on Alan, I'd own that car in a heartbeat if I could afford it... it's essentially a new car built by one of the best!

    How about still a bit further. If you restore an original horn grill, fender, etc, then what do you have? The horn grill was dechromed.. the pits welded in and then filed back down over and over, and then it's replated with copper and then buffed over and over and then finally gets a nickel layer and then chrome. Is that an original part? Really?

    I understand the Hella 128 fog lights were repopped using original tooling. The chrome is crappy now vs the old old original ones, but what do we get to call those? Are they original?

    I'm going to go further. If Porsche buys a "new" part from a subcontractor, then it's now OEM right? It then gets a Porsche part number, the old original one. Is that part now considered an original one? Do YOU know if it's manufactured by the same guy from back in the day?... or is it someone like me who Porsche has accepted a new part from and slapped the part number on. If Stoddard repops a part on their own... is that original? They get to put an original part number on it...they are "Porsche". How do you know if it's old stock that you or they "found", or a repop.

    From my experience in the 356 world, it's kinda shaky. There's the obvious repops, and then if you buy really good stuff you're just happy to get a very nice part, and hope that it's original. Depends also on who you buy it from to an extent, though there's plenty of parts suppliers who will be happy to tell you that "yes" it's correct for your car, and it's original. There was many parts repopped in the 80's and 90's that went away and were never redone again, like the tenax mounted stone guards, big gas tanks, idiot lights for pre-A's etc. They were very well done. Doubtful that many of us (or anyone) could tell the difference there.

    Just a bunch of questions and observations...

    Oh, and as far as the 67S door trigger end caps.. I'll be happy to put a manufacturers stamp on it, just tell me where the original one is on it and I'll put mine right there.... Ok, there's no place to do it, so I can't. Perhaps I shouldn't make stuff that can't be trademarked with AF on it?

    Early S #259
    RGruppe #60

    1968 911L Race/Rally w 901/30 engine, dad ordered new.....

  10. #10
    I am new to all of this and trying to follow and understand this discussion. I have a 1973 911S in all original condition. My husband ordered the car in 1973 and I have all the original paperwork, etc. I want to keep this car and keep it as original as possible. Could someone please explain the abbreviations and acronyms to me? I know I am asking a lot ... NOS, OE, PET, OEM, JMO, nia.

    I need to replace the original door, trunk, and headlight seals this winter. I need to research the seals, installation, etc. I need to understand what I am doing and know the difference between original, reproduction, etc. It is important to me to get this right and feel comfortable with the process.

    '73 911S, #9113301365
    Early S Registry #2027

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