John Forcier
EarlyS #1987
1968 911 Race Car "Grun Hilda"
1969 S/T interpretation "Blau Healer"
Restoration Saga
I agree that a 914/6 would be a much better proposition. The 6 allows for more hp and better tuning as they effectively ran a T motor with Webers. Internals being free you could go to S specs and get 160hp+ and run it on 6 inch rims. There is not a lot of weight you can rip out of them however apart from maybe bumpers.
I think set up right, as seen by Howard's car, they can be a great thing to drive. The only thing that lets them down is the gear shift which is always vague.
Alex Webster
1967 911S Sunroof - RHD
1969 911E - LHD - Historic Racecar
1975 911 Carrera 2.7 MFI - RHD - Historic Racecar
My historic racing videos - www.youtube.com/aewebster
I would have thought, By the time you set one up right you wished you had started with a 901.
probably right Hung!!
Alex Webster
1967 911S Sunroof - RHD
1969 911E - LHD - Historic Racecar
1975 911 Carrera 2.7 MFI - RHD - Historic Racecar
My historic racing videos - www.youtube.com/aewebster
Yeah, I agree with all of the above... It's just an opportunity to grab a complete and running 914 at a reasonable price. You can't grab a 901 or 914/6 for the same kind of coin
John Forcier
EarlyS #1987
1968 911 Race Car "Grun Hilda"
1969 S/T interpretation "Blau Healer"
Restoration Saga
John
We are mere custodians and if you invest in a reasonable beast to stsrt with I reckon you'll get it back and more rather than less. That doesnt always help , but I'll send you a link to another idea.
Good luck John.
Andrew B (Tiger)
911 69E Historic Production Race Car
Thanks for the PDF... read it thoroughly and understand that basically, the Sc class is period Showroom Stock with a little wiggle room so long as everything is steel. That part seems kinda regressive since plastic was used on lots of SS cars in period. I'd ask for clarification and bring a file of evidence to validate inclusion. If there are examples of teeners racing in Australia in the 1970s and you get the OK, it's all good. Remove all the glass, strip the doors, cutting the majority of the internal structure, drill the rest. Chop the A pillar off, add the low windscreen, 6-point cage and the standard 914/6 stiffening kit. Upgrade suspension components and brakes as in period, and since the later teeners are 901 sideshifters, no slop with upgraded bushings and a variety of gearing choices. All good on the 14X6 wheel size and 60 series rubber, too. As to the displacement issue, well... ^^^EDIT: Good point, Dave! Two liter it is!
That's the best part... with internals and induction basically open, given enough $$ you could easily see 200+hp with the ignition allowances provided in the rules. But it's a fat flat torque curve that wins, and getting a dependably understressed 160 hp or so from 2000cc with somewhat more torque is the Type IV's strong point. See Jake Raby for how it's done.
Last edited by Bullethead; 01-11-2012 at 05:30 PM.
Russ
ESR # 1537
'62 356S Notchback Hotrod
'67 S Das Geburtstagsgeschenk
'68 T Targa Sportomatic
'68 L SW Targa Sportomatic
'70 914/6 GT
Hung - Ssshhh. We're bench racing and there is no room for this 'logic' of yours.
Alex - TeamHoward have sorted the shift on his.
Cheers, Ryan
Founder and chief centre cap remover at : ZOLLHAUS / Design driven custom PORSCHE : https://zoll.haus
You really don't need to, John... since it's not clear to some of us how your sanctioning groups classify, could you post their GCR or a link?
I'm curious why you guys think a built 1.8 wouldn't be competitive against ANY Britcar of the same displacement, cut windscreen or not.
Also, why wouldn't you be allowed to run the car Ginther style? Stripping weight is easy, FG cowl cover, doors, hoods & bumpers are all available. Your running/driving 914 find can be significantly lightened, and should be good against anything under 2 liters without going nuts $$$ wise.
Russ
ESR # 1537
'62 356S Notchback Hotrod
'67 S Das Geburtstagsgeschenk
'68 T Targa Sportomatic
'68 L SW Targa Sportomatic
'70 914/6 GT