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Thread: Opinion: SWB Under Coat

  1. #1

    Thumbs down Opinion: SWB Under Coat

    Almost ready to undercoat a stripped pan on an early car. Wurth has a product that is waterbased, however they don't ship during the winter. I think they also
    have a similar product that is solvent based. Has anyone used this on an early car? Is it easy to apply, look correct, color OK etc?

  2. #2
    You want the water based black stuff. Who told you they don't ship in winter? Search here for "schutz"
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  3. #3
    The water-based product is the Stoneguard. If you have trouble getting it, let me know. We order it regularly from Wurth and probably have a couple of bottles around at any given time.

  4. #4
    please excuse my naivety, but why would one use a waterbased one? wouldnt the water part promote rust?
    Harry Hoffman
    1968 912 #3656, burgundy red 'Fritz'. Some mods..
    912 Registry charter member #912R0195-C
    Early 911S Registry Member #2070
    356 Registry Member #36691

  5. #5
    No, the water evaporates out, for example almost all cars are now factory painted with water based paint. Solvent based paints emit unwanted fumes into the atmosphere. And frankly its a lot easier to clean my undercoat gun with water after usage instead of having to use lacquer thinner.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  6. #6
    The SKS will look like cottage cheese after it freezes. The early 67S Im restoring has a grey PVC layer that looks original. I dont think the grey SKS is available anymore
    Last edited by 66S; 02-05-2012 at 04:37 PM.

  7. #7
    I'm pretty sure it is still available from Wurth, however my 67 had an all black brittle undercoat on it. I don't think the PVC undercoat started until 1970.
    Early S Registry member #90
    R Gruppe member #138
    Fort Worth Tx.

  8. #8

    Early car, Wurth waterborne is my experience

    The 67 S that I have (45,000 miles) has undercoating similar if not exactly the same as used on the 356. It is original & unmolested in the trunk, u pristine. I understand the original product contained asbestos and you could purchase it up until the early 90's and believe it was called Body Schutz. The early product did show some particles that were not black and looked like asbestos particles, and could look grey after many years.

    The petroleum base product ends up thin no matter what pressure, what temperature. Unsatisfactory in my opinion. And a fire and breathing hazard for sure. The water base dries very hard but is temperature sensitive. It is best used when the product dries quickly with a warm temperature (above 80 degrees F if possible), more texture, more close to original and the only product other than a shop made product that works. You should experiment with pressure, distance and coverage just like paint so you know what you will get when you spray the car. Both give off fumes so you should use with ventilation. And don't get it on any surface you don't want it on. Particularly a painted body. If it dries you have a problem.

    If it were me, I would paint the bottom of the car with your choice of rust preventive paint if you have bare metal. Then undercoat. I just received 5 cases so they do ship in winter but the product is freeze sensitive.

    As everyone that has restored a later car with the heavy undercoating, that is a horse of a different color. Very difficult to remove, it can be closely duplicated but does take some practice and product/equipment not readily available. Lots of work.
    Roy Smalley
    member 877

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by edmayo View Post
    I'm pretty sure it is still available from Wurth, however my 67 had an all black brittle undercoat on it. I don't think the PVC undercoat started until 1970.
    Ed, you're right about the PVC.

    The early cars had a layer of Teroson undercoating directly over bare steel. This is why even on unrestored cars there's a layer of rust UNDER the undercoating-- moisture permeates it over the decades and rusts the steel. This is also why the SWB undercoating is easier to remove than the LWB-- it doesn't adhere as well the thin layer of surface rust. Not that it's particularly easy to remove, but it's easier than the LWB.

    The OP's car has been sprayed, if my own experience is any guide, with PPG DPLF, an anticorrosion two-part epoxy primer. It seals the car up nicely-- '065 sat in that coating for about two years and there is absolutely no corrosion present, none, nada. The only thing better would be dipping it in e-coat but this is beyond the reach of Series900. (But not beyond his imagination)
    1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen

  10. #10
    Porsche Nut merbesfield's Avatar
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    Can anyone report on how many bottles it takes to coat the pan, fender wells and engine compartment? I have the Multi-spray gun that uses the screw on bottles. Not sure the size, but available in black and beige color. One thing I don't understand is that some guys have reported loving this stuff while others have said they do not like it. Too thin one said. Confusing reports.

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