SWB Suspension Upgrades?

[50/50]

Hello:
I am looking to hone the suspension on a SWB to Sporty Street. I have a LWB that is lowered, corner balanced, 26mm rtb's, adjustable konis, heavy antiroll bars, 55 series, etc.
It is a blade but a little tough on the kidneys on our marginal roads. So I don't want anything too aggressive.

Thinking of going with 26mm rears, stock bushings, clubsport mounts, rebuild Koni's, 195/65 etc. Not sure about anti roll bars.
What have you used to "improve" your ride?
Thanks,
50/50

[edmayo]

My question to you is if you've used 26mm rear torsion bars on a LWB and you think it is too rough riding, why would you want to use them on a SWB. In this case however, I do use 26mm rear bars on my 67, stock ones in front, stock frt sway bar, 15 mm bar in the rear, and 195 X 65 Goodyear Eagle GT tires all around, 6" rims in front, and 7" rims in the rear. I've driven this set up over 6,000 miles on cross country trips in the last 4 months and I'm very pleased with it.

[304065]

Ed, 13mm pencil bar in the front or a 15?

[hoffman912]

I am in the same boat, doing a suspension refresh, and want everything tight and sporty, but not overkill -i like to do long distance drives on mine... cross country 4 times, up and down the east coast and all over the midwest several times. I love to carve mountain roads, but there are a few states away.. My E46 BMW 3 series with sports package is stiff and rough enough as it is (feel every hair line crack). though i want my 912 suspension to be sportier i dont necessarily want that stiff in my 912.

Ed, what size torsions in the front? 19s? 21s?

I am looking at upgrading mine. going with rubber elephant bushings (A arm, spring plate, and banana arms and camber plate). New ball joints, elephant swb turbo tie rods. my car does not have a sway bar.. i picked up a 13 long time ago and now finally have all the parts. do you think i should start there or with a 15? I am worried a 13 will disapoint, but having never had one, i dont know really what to expect.

on the camber plates and banana arms, would i be better served with monoballs, or would this make the ride harsh? or a waste of money in a street car?

i got a set of adjustable Konis already..

[Aldo]

Same questions I've mulled but haven't asked yet, Harry. It seems our current setups are the same except that I used Bilsteins. I wonder how swb 911 data will relate, considering our lighter swb's?

[50/50]

Ed
As usual ,good insight. My LWB setup has 26mm T Bars, lowered suspension, aftermarket bushings, 55 series yokos, and an Anti Roll that looks to be at least 20mm. It was set up by a respected shop in SoCal. I am upping the powerplant on the SWB and using using either 65 or 70 series tires and new stock hardness bushings. I am not sure what the stock set up anti roll bar was in 66. I don't mind a taut suspension, it is the bottoming out that I want to avoid.
Thanks,
50/50

[JohnT]

Alan/Harry

In my experience 911 suspension data (particularly LWB) doesn't relate at all to a SWB 912. In the last 10 years I believe I can honestly say that everything I have tried is different.

The 912 is a lighter car (mine particularly so) with most of the difference in weight is at the rear. Consequently 912's (without limited slips) don't oversteer at the limit. I think 19mm or 20mm front T-Bars and 24mm rears a good place to start. I personally love tuning with sway bars and believe size matters. Put a big, adjustable front sway bar in. My technique is to stiffen the front until it understeers and then back it off just a tad, or leave the front and add a rear sway bar.

For a SWB 911, I'm with Dr. Ed. Particularly with the tires. 195/65 or 205/60's (they will fit, use '1968 spacers and alignment settings). One can restore a lot of compliance (comfort) with taller sidewalls. One gains compliance with stock suspension bushings, but loses a lot of precision (control). I think Elephant poly bronze bushings deliver a great ride and much more precise control. The offset? They're expensive and require maintenance (lube every 2-3,000 miles).

just my $.02 and sorry for hijacking the thread.

johnt

[Flieger]

There is also the Rebel Racing option which does not require maintainance and is lighter and cheaper than the polybronze+"low friction mounts".

"Too harsh/stiff" is a very subjective thing.

In my opinion, the precision bushings from Rebel Racing pared with nearly stock torsion bar stiffnesses and minimal anti-roll bars would result in the best compromise for smooth ride but precise handling in the twisties. In this way there is less uncontrolled movement of the wheel since there is no rubber but the springs and damping ratio are still soft enough to absorb bumps. And without large anti-roll bars the car should be more composed over rough roads.

[hoffman912]

Thanks John, no you have a lot of experience and knowledge to share -much appreciated! I still have an email from you several years ago saved, which is the basis for much of what I am looking at. I know you suggested 24 rears in that email but didnt say much on fronts so hearing 19-20 is good..

where do you think is good to start with sway bars? 13, 15? (not sure of the next sizes). at what point do we need a rear sway bar?

my tires are 195/65 15s front and back (potenzas). was going to ask if i should go to a lower profile, but hearing you both say that195/64 or 205/60s is reassuring too.

[edmayo]

Ed, 13mm pencil bar in the front or a 15?

John, 15 at both ends on the 67.
Ed