The Partsklassik CDI box in combination with the distributor black/purple wire never drove my tach. I sent the tach back to Buz at Seattle Speedometer along with the clock and he verified the tach was fine and the clock needed repair. 3 day turnaround in his shop although he forgot to mail them back, so there was a 2 week delay. No biggie.

After futzing about with it on the weekend, I put in the Tach-Adapt (http://www.ashlocktech.com) I had bought, making a harness with proper spade connectors so that nothing was cut. Mounted it on the main harness right behind the tach so it is invisible. Still nothing. Then I pulled the jumper that is supposed to increase the voltage to the tach and voila, tach works perfectly. SO this is a bit weird. According to the inter webs and the instructions that came with the Tach-Adapt, tach with the "C" terminal (as opposed to the earlier "1" terminal) only need the lower voltage, but whatever. It works! My tach is dated 1/73, so this is a data point for anyone who struggles with the same issue.

There's probably a quick fix within the CDI box as well, but that's something for the winter.

Dash is now done (God knows why the damn photo shows up upside down even when I rotate it) except for the turn signal cancellation ring which is on its way, as are the two little squares that go in the heater control unit, which are also on their way. Then the steering wheel nut can be tightened once the alignment is done.

Engine grill painted in Dupli-Color smoke anodized paint and NOS 2.4 badge attached. Installed the gas tank lid and shimmed the gaps. Need to do something about the gas filler ground wire as there is no tab on the cap, but I can put a M5 or M4 nut on one of the the screws that hold the lid hinge to the body and a ring terminal on the brown wire.

Next up is the 3M 08840 sound deadening pad that needs to be formed and glued down to the floor pan. Carpets from KHM have made their way from Germany to Montreal and should be here by the end of the week one hopes.


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