Door Seals

[ejboyd5]

The last discussion about the "best" seals to use occurred in 2016. Is there consensus today about the product/vendor to use?

[moito]

The last discussion about the "best" seals to use occurred in 2016. Is there consensus today about the product/vendor to use?

for the 64 and early 65 style seals: RUF has had them reproduced and they are very nice

[sithot]

I recently installed a new door seal in a 1980 911SC. I've never been a fan of the "yellow" trim adhesive and found 3M 1357 via some research. I ran it by a friend in the aviation business and he informed me that he uses it on door seals. It has a short "working time" so it's imperative to install the seal in sections. If you adhere to this method you'll get good results.

[Jens]

By the way, I solved the riotous wind noise by going to the Talbot Racing mirror. It was a factory option.
Instead of sending a blast of turbulent air directly into the door seal, the air flows smoothly around the Talbot. No noise at all. But, then again, I do take liberties with originality.

[Rick Cabell]

Jens...I'M commin!

[Jens]

Just rattlin’ yer cage Rick. No worries! I have a set for you.

[71gold]

Jens
I would love a set ??
For my 71 sunroof just ready for paint.
Please
Thanks
Frank

[smedley]

Candyce is correct...the original early "solid" seals with the fragile lip did have a thickened area moulded right into the seal at the front area where the frame joins the door...the "whistle area" as it were. It runs for maybe 10cm ending in a gradual taper.

I use Sugru moldable rubber behind the seal at that area to build it up as original. I can taper it as the original contour. the plastic spacers came along later with the hollow seals.

As to the cut at the top rear corner...it was a butt joint on early cars up through at least '70MY...NEVER a miter cut.....he top horizontal piece extending to the corner, and the vertical piece butting against it. As for later "hollow" seals, I've never replaced or restored any of those, but I just went out and inspected my original, unmolested '86 Turbo.....mitered joint that has been sealed/glued before installation as with a windshield seal...a continuous ring. I recaving some of these hollow seals for an earlier restoration before Stoddard made the correct early seals available...as I recall the later hollow seals were already bonded end to end...just never noticed the joint until now.

[Dr_Danger]

Candyce is correct...the original early "solid" seals with the fragile lip did have a thickened area moulded right into the seal at the front area where the frame joins the door...the "whistle area" as it were. It runs for maybe 10cm ending in a gradual taper.

I use Sugru moldable rubber behind the seal at that area to build it up as original. I can taper it as the original contour. the plastic spacers came along later with the hollow seals.

As to the cut at the top rear corner...it was a butt joint on early cars up through at least '70MY...NEVER a miter cut.....he top horizontal piece extending to the corner, and the vertical piece butting against it. As for later "hollow" seals, I've never replaced or restored any of those, but I just went out and inspected my original, unmolested '86 Turbo.....mitered joint that has been sealed/glued before installation as with a windshield seal...a continuous ring. I recaving some of these hollow seals for an earlier restoration before Stoddard made the correct early seals available...as I recall the later hollow seals were already bonded end to end...just never noticed the joint until now.

Could you post some pictures of how you put Sugru in/behind the seal? I'm a big fan of sugru and have been using it for all sorts of stuff even made a few "rubber" parts out of it with home made moulds.

So are the "hollow" later seals an improvement on the original ones? I'm looking for practicality with "concourse" correct look as secondary really. Can is used pretty much every week so I need practical solutions

[smedley]

I don't have any photos of the last project, my '67S, where I used the Sugru, and when it's in place with the seal you can't see it, but......

I formed a "sausage" rolling between my palms about 10mm in diameter and tapered to a point, total length approximately 10cm. I placed it into the bottom of the seal channel right at the angle where the window frame joins the door, thus 5cm along either side of that joint. When the seal is then fitted is approximates the thickened, proud area of the original seal. You don't want the Sugru to be so thick that the seal has no channel, just a shallower channel. The nice thing about the Sugru is that it has adhesive properties, and as it cures it becomes part of the back of the seal as well as holding it in place.

We can only assume, trusting the factory's engineers, that the later hollow seals were "better." I'm guessing this was not what they hoped as the plastic consoles were still used in "whistle" areas on the later cars.