Door Seals

[sithot]

PS: 901 531 945 20 is NLA. Roll your own.

[Sepia911S]

Below are photographs of the "bulge" of the original door seal. If you want additional photos, just ask.

[Sepia911S]

The photographs are of the cut in the upper right hand corner where the two ends of the seal meet.
It is a straight cut but there is some kind of "offset" on the front/back.
I really don't know what I am looking at.

[smedley]

It was never a miter cut.

From several original cars as reference........the joint is at the top rear corner. The horizontal top piece goes all the way to the corner ending in a straight cut butted against the B pillar. The rear vertical door jamb/B pillar piece comes up and butts right against the end of the horizontal piece, again ending in a straight cut.

Very little glue was used except at the corners and along the B pillar at the front of the rear quarter seal and headliner fold.

Wurth trim glue far superior to the 3M product, er crap. Opps!

[sithot]

I'm reasonably sure I saw a miter cut on the tubes I took out. These were made as a one piece part (ends glued). I don't have them in front of me right this minute. My recollection of installing a set a long time ago was that they put up a pretty good fight. Apparently the bean counters
didn't give you any more than you possibly needed so a little stretching here and there made for an easier install.

After seeing Candyce's seals I now remember exactly how they look and admit that I may be in for a tough time getting these so called OEM "Genuine" parts to work. But the tubes were in good shape and Ed has graciously offered an assist in bringing them up to snuff.

Round 2 coming.

Tom

[beh911]

It was never a miter cut.

From several original cars as reference........the joint is at the top rear corner. The horizontal top piece goes all the way to the corner ending in a straight cut butted against the B pillar. The rear vertical door jamb/B pillar piece comes up and butts right against the end of the horizontal piece, again ending in a straight cut.

Very little glue was used except at the corners and along the B pillar at the front of the rear quarter seal and headliner fold.

Wurth trim glue far superior to the 3M product, er crap. Opps!

This is the picture I referenced earlier in this thread and it seems to match what you are saying. (Pic is also of Candyce's car)

[Sepia911S]

"I'm curious as to the instructions you received and how you built up the area in question."

When I received the seals from Stoddard, there were no instructions. I visited three shops and talked with the owners about the installation and made my choice. After the seals were installed and the door whistled, I returned to the shop with Ed Mayo's directions. A slit was cut in the tube and packing was inserted. The poor man fiddled with it for the better part of a morning, adjusting the packing, the location, etc. It was not easy to do. It is not perfect. There is still a bit of whistling. I need to return to the shop and see if it can be better adjusted. When the man was working on it, I told him not to glue it in. I wanted to wait and see what happened with the whistling. Now, I am glad it wasn't glued. I was worried that once it was glued, it could not be changed. I don't want to do this again.

[sithot]

Here is the little son-of-a-gun that I was trying to recall. We bought these too. Didn't do much from what I recall.

Tom

[smedley]

The later tubular seals were mitered......but we were discussing the early original seals still available from Stoddard. The early seals were butted ss described.

[sithot]

I started the discussion and I'll talk about fake boobs if I can wind them into the story…

E eeeeeeeezzzzzzzzy Now!

Tom