The start of a few repairs to ol' rusty...

[911scfanatic]

Could do much this w/e. Lot's of Christmas parties.

[911scfanatic]

BTW, can anyone comment from recent experience on any difference between Restoration Design and Stoddard left and right side lateral gas tank supports? Also, what is the difference between the SWB and LWB left side lateral gas tank supports?

[mrgreenjeans]

Thanks for sharing these most intimate of pictures , as they are definitely not for the squeamish.....

just lowered my offer on a lightly rusted SWB with this knowledge you shared

best wishes with the grafting in of new bones

[classic]

Both are repo and will require some fitting, I opted for Porsche and they dropped right in.

I used Dansk, RD and Porsche panels, RD and Dansk are about the same, it's such a complex piece I didn't want to have to cut, joint, shrink or stretch.

I would think only difference between the LWB and SWB stamping is the battery hold down.

[NorthernThrux]

I used R-D laterals and the cross-piece. R-D just started doing a new cross-piece (the one you see in the car). The laterals needed almost no work to fit. From what I understand, issues only arise when a car has not been put on a Celette bench and trued up properly. You can see the original R-D cross-piece that was not as good a fit on top of the truing frame. It's going back to R-D, which is just 25 km away.

And just because it is fun to view the carnage, here's a picture from "before".

[mrgreenjeans]

and after those last pics

I lowered the offer again.

by the time you show more of what could be lurking, my prospect may well be given to me as yard art.
hopefully ( - ;


so glad yours got saved, it does look fantastic with all that new shiny steel

[911scfanatic]

NorthernThrux, thanks for the info. Love the photos! (And, I just ordered the L&R laterals from Mike @ R-D)

My car has not been in an accident before. I believe that with the a laser level and the dimensions from the FSM, I should be able to align the pan quite well. A few very experienced Porsche gurus who have done these replacements many times before have given me some great tips as well.

Please feel free to share any tips you may have.

[SERIES900]

Bill said,"Please feel free to share any tips you may have"

Pecan pie is good in NH. :>)

[mrgreenjeans]

but the Cherry pie will be even better in Traverse City, next summer during Parade.
Gonna make It ?

[NorthernThrux]

My car had been in several accidents (or hit several things in one accident). Hard to tell. Don't know anything about the history before it came to Canada in 1989, other than it was delivered to VoA in Texas. It had already been repainted to black when it was imported, and had another respray a few years later. As much as 5 mm of Bondo in places. Sure looked good, but I knew there was bad stuff lurking underneath.

As for tips, I don't have much to share I'm afraid. Robert Gross is doing the work, but I've spent some time in the shop so he could explain to me what was going on. He showed me what needs to be done to get each piece to fit properly. Got an original fender from a 73 to replace the driver's side one with all it's holes. Saw that none of the replacement Porsche or R-D panels fit until the car was but on the Celette bench and brought back to its original dimensions. I just don't think this is possible to do with only a laser level. The FSM called for a bench as well after all. Of course Robert is pretty fussy. The right rear had been hit (I'm guessing all the damage came from a 360 oversteer incident as the left rear was untouched.) and was 2 mm out of spec. You can barely see the crease/bump, but it's there (see arrow). Robert cut off the entire back 10 inches, replaced the rusty latch panel, hammered out the bump in the right rear box section by putting in a piece of oak of the right cross section) and was welding the back on when I was last there.

Front latch panel was replaced too as you can see in the earlier pictures.

The car is completely true now. Gaps are perfect. The front right was pushed in about 8 mm and the front left about 6 mm. It's all straight. Helps to have the proper frames for all the openings as well as you can see (green in this case). It's hard to get everything square otherwise.

What amazes me is that if this car had not been hit, it was pretty much rust free. The pan is perfect. Only callous previous owners who didn't fix her properly are to blame for her condition.

This also reminds me I am 6 months behind in updating my build thread. Maybe over Christmas....