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Thread: Roll bar installation

  1. #1
    Senior Member Bob Harriman's Avatar
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    Roll bar installation

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    I know it should be a tight fit but damn. Should I remove the inside upholstery covering the wheel well to get the front mounts anchored and then reinstall it? The mounting plate seems to overlap a bit onto the vinyl. Also, is there a trick getting the rear bars to the seat belt bolts? I'm not racing, it's just for looks. Thanks

  2. #2
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    I know it should be a tight fit but damn. Should I remove the inside upholstery covering the wheel well to get the front mounts anchored and then reinstall it? The mounting plate seems to overlap a bit onto the vinyl. Also, is there a trick getting the rear bars to the seat belt bolts? I'm not racing, it's just for looks. Thanks
    Bob, the simple answer is yes......

    I found there are many steps to the install... however the 'foot plates' and hoop come close but shouldn't touch your vinyl sides, except you have to of course remove your seat belt receiver covers.

    - Remove your front AND rear seats, the rear will not be going back in.... and your receiver covers
    - Loosely bolt the foot plates to the bar.
    - Put the bar into the car with the carpeting w/sound proofing in.
    - Temporarily bolt up the diagonals to the threaded holes and see where the 'feet' land on your wheel well carpet... and mark with a chalk or crayon.
    - Take bar out and lift wheel well carpet up and transferring the foot locating carpet marks to the sound proofing.
    - Peel back, or remove as much carpeting as you car can and remove or just cut out a very generous section of sound proofing around the 'foot print'.
    - Wire wheel clean the exposed wheel well bare metal.
    - Bolt bar back in on the diagonals w/foot plates still bolted on and make sure the bar is sitting square and 'normal'
    - Now tack weld the foot plates to the wheel well surface.
    - Carefully unbolt the bar from the tacked in foot plates, unbolt the diagonals and removed.
    - Weld up the foot plats permanently.... In these welding steps have water in a sprayer, in a bucket, a fire extinguisher, lots of blankets… sparks will get everywhere.
    - Grind and finish foot plate welds as needed and paint them (black)

    Now you have a choice, either cut out the marked carpet so the roll bar's bases sit directly on the welded in foot... or, put the carpet back in, put the bar back in, and punch through holes in the carpet into the welded foot and mount the bar sandwiching the carpet in between and the foot.....
    I did the later, for a very clean install....

    Here's a couple of pics:
    - Welded in foot plate surrounded by sound proofing ... disregard extra weld on lower part of hoop (we needed to make a sunroof bar a little taller)
    - Installed bar on top of sandwiched carpet...

    Hope this helps
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    Last edited by Chuck Miller; 12-06-2012 at 12:15 PM.
    Chuck Miller
    Creative Advisor/Message Board Moderator - Early 911S Registry #109
    R Gruppe #88

    TYP901 #62
    '73S cpe #1099 - Matched # 2.7/9.5 RS spec rebuild
    '67 Malibu 327 spt cpe - Period 350 Rebuild

    ’98 Chevy S-10 – Utility
    ’15 GTI – Commuter

  3. #3
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    amazing piece of info. You guys rock!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bob Harriman's Avatar
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    Chuck, I bought the bar used and it did not come with the foot plates. Bear with me here. The foot plates get welded to the inside top of wheel well. Do the bolts go through the plate and wheel well to a nut tightened in the exterior wheel well or are there threaded holes in the welded plate to screw the bolts in? I may have to see if TRE, I think his name is David, will sell me just the plates. By the way, yours looks beautifully done. very clean fiished product. Forgive me for all the questions but the info is very helpful.

  5. #5
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
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    Yeah Bob, the foot plates are threaded and the cap screws are only about 5/8" so they are just right for two pieces of 1/4" stock (bar base/foot plate) plus a flat and lock washer....
    Chuck Miller
    Creative Advisor/Message Board Moderator - Early 911S Registry #109
    R Gruppe #88

    TYP901 #62
    '73S cpe #1099 - Matched # 2.7/9.5 RS spec rebuild
    '67 Malibu 327 spt cpe - Period 350 Rebuild

    ’98 Chevy S-10 – Utility
    ’15 GTI – Commuter

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bob Harriman's Avatar
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    Thanks Chuck

  7. #7

    Roll Bar install parts list

    Some details regarding bits the factory used for the install.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Bob Harriman's Avatar
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    Interesting. TRE has the plates and bolts for 35.00 pair. I'll go with that. I'll post photos when it's in. It was recommened to me to use a ratchet strap to use on the rear mounts to get them to flex in a bit for the install. That's a great idea.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bob Harriman's Avatar
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    Chuck, I have one more question. How did you get the one bolt that is obstructed by the angle of the upright in? The bolts that TRE sent me appear to be a bit too long. I have to shim each nut with 3 washers to keep the bolts from bottoming out under the mounting plate on the fenderwell. That many washers doesn't look good to me and the one that the upright is in the way of won't even come close to vertical plum to screw it in even without washers. I can get shorter bolts to avoid all the washers but this still won't get the one the upright is in the way of in because I can't get an allen wrench in it. I like the allen head look better than a hex nut but one hex nut in that hole and three allens looks stupid to me. Thanks, Bob.

  10. #10
    Moderator Chuck Miller's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    Chuck, I have one more question. How did you get the one bolt that is obstructed by the angle of the upright in? The bolts that TRE sent me appear to be a bit too long. I have to shim each nut with 3 washers to keep the bolts from bottoming out under the mounting plate on the fenderwell. That many washers doesn't look good to me and the one that the upright is in the way of won't even come close to vertical plum to screw it in even without washers. I can get shorter bolts to avoid all the washers but this still won't get the one the upright is in the way of in because I can't get an allen wrench in it. I like the allen head look better than a hex nut but one hex nut in that hole and three allens looks stupid to me. Thanks, Bob.
    Bob,

    I might have fitted shorter bolts, like I said I think 5/8" should do it. I believe the correct size bolt next to the upright was tightened using the short side of the 'L' of a standard single allen wrench....

    Hope this helps
    Chuck Miller
    Creative Advisor/Message Board Moderator - Early 911S Registry #109
    R Gruppe #88

    TYP901 #62
    '73S cpe #1099 - Matched # 2.7/9.5 RS spec rebuild
    '67 Malibu 327 spt cpe - Period 350 Rebuild

    ’98 Chevy S-10 – Utility
    ’15 GTI – Commuter

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