'R' Style Engine Lid Hinges

[chris_seven]

I have been looking at the reproduction 'R' Style Engine Lid Hinges for some time and although they are all very well finished the originals were never made of Stainless Steel or Titanium, TIG Welding and didn't use a set screw as the pivot.

I had the need for a few sets and we set about to reproduce what I believe was the orginal style which was mild steel, brazed or sliver soldered and them chrome plated and using a clevis pin as the hinge.

It has taken far too long to reproduce but we finally made the sets we needed.



I will try to take better photographs as these are not great.

[Dezzmo]

Keep me informed Chris, I'm interested in a set.

They look great and would be perfect for my car

[Xavier PJB]

so am I. Cheers
X

[JimmyT]

That's a nice job with the hinges!
In support of your efforts to address originality, here is the factory arrangement with relevant part numbers.

1 901.512.003.60 NLA Hood Hinge, Complete, Left
1 901.512.004.60 NLA Hood hinge, Complete, Right

2 901.512.314.60 NLA Doubler plate

10 900.014.030.02 (sic) NLA Oval head, slotted, countersunk screw, M5x12 DIN 91-St gal Zn 8c =900.019.006.02
10 999.084.102.02 Lock nut, M5 SN 1185

4 900.140.015.02 Oval head, Phillips, countersunk, self-tapping, screw, stainless B 3.5x9.5 DIN 7973 St

2 900.087.019.02 NLA Clevis pin, 5h 11x10x8 DIN 1434 St gal Zn 8c
2 900.089.012.02 Clevis pin washer, 5 DIN 1440-St gal Zn 8c
2 900.021.030.00 Cotter pin, 1x10 DIN 94-St

As you suggested, the 1mm thick sheetmetal was silver soldered.
There were right & left side hinges, but the top arm bends enough for them to be interchangeable.
A 'doubler' plate was added to the bottom of the fiberglass decklid to prevent the washerless hex nuts from eating into the fiberglass.
I believe that all of the commercially available fiberglass decklids are thicker than the original R ones, so longer machine screws >=16mm will be needed.

[chris_seven]

We have the double plates cut from stainless steel byt some fibreglass decklids have the inner fram bonded in slightly the wrong place and need a 'bent' screw to fit them correctly.

The clevis pins, washers and all the other parts are stainless steel with polished heads.

We also use 'acorn' nuts on the screws to give a better proflie but supply with hex nuts as well.

I will have to upgrade my model as iy uses the wrong screws and needs to be improved.

[keith]

Chris, what is the current availability of these? (trying to avoid making a run of them over here if possible!)

[Richardnew]

Here's the hinge from the Revs 911R.



Notice the use of safety wire rather than the pin shown in the factory drawing.

Richard Newton
Car Tech Stuff

[keith]

I've seen that also on some photos. (wire vs pin)

I think the reproduction attempts are missing some angle and underside recess details on the spine also.

Here's what I drew up, from the handful of original hinge photos on the web:



I had to elevate the pivot and angle the spine downward to put the decklid on the same plane as the cowl and get the underside recess that is evident on the factory part. There were other deviations (from the dimensions previously posted on this and other forums) necessary to get a part that looked like the photo above.

Very interesting that there were originally Right and Left hinges!

[Ernie W]

Keith,
If you need any help on hinges I have photos from several R's. When R20 was silver, this is what it had, both the l. and r. side. (mix match pin and bolt) Later on when it was repainted blue, notice how things changed. I think the pin with washer and cotter pin is the way to go...

[keith]

Ernie, those are fantastic; thank you.

I'm trying to imagine what the difference between left and right hinges might've been? Angle of the pivot tabs to the base to account for the curvature of the cowl/decklid, perhaps?