CV joint(s) questions

[Haasman]

It seems the outboard CV joint is bad on the 73 911, that has 104k miles on it. I am trying to determine what is best to do. What is the recommendation?

-Do I find a Lobro (OEM supplier) complete half-shaft replacement figuring if the outboard is bad, it would be time for the inboard? Somebody is supposedly selling a complete unit (inboard and outboard CV joints, dust boots etc) for about $100 more than just one CV joint.

-Or simply rebuild each one as I go?

I do want to stay original as possible. I've read multiple threads and rebuilding the CV joints.

Your advice/experience and potential suppliers would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[kentf14]

Timely thread.
I've done it both ways. Rebuilding the CV is a MESSY job. Not especially hard to do, just messy. I had a split boot on the passenger side and I pulled the assembly and rebuilt. Then a month or so later, I had the same thing happen on the drivers side. For that one I opted not to rebuild and just throw a new one on. They are cheap enough that I didn't think I wanted to risk a failure on a rebuilt unit.

K

[Haasman]

Interesting .... so Kent where did you get your new from?

I dont mind the dirty work, but after adding up the parts it came out better to buy a complete shaft, depending on the price of course.

[kentf14]

I bought the complete löbro axle from Parts Heaven last year. Jim can get one for you also.
If you decide to go the rebuild route, I have a pair of boot clamp pliers I'd be happy to loan you.

Kent

[gsjohnson]

I just went thru this as well. I found water in the right outer CV joint and it had been there long enough to corrode. The inner was good, but I hadn't even looked at the left side. I opted to just replace both sides. It was actually cheaper to just buy new assemblies...and no greasey labor.

[Haasman]

This is a very good, detailed thread about CV joints/axels and their repair also see More CV Repairs and hardware

[kentf14]

small update
All this talk of CVs got me investigating my own. As it turns out, the newer complete axles that come with the 2 pin +4 bolt config have a slightly different tin holding down the boot. The newer tin seems like it's a standard 6-bolt type (with 6 holes). This means that there are holes over the roll pins that can lead to grease leaking out and getting flung all over the underside of your car. In comparison, the older style "tin" pieces have only 4 holes and the roll pin areas are covered, making a better sealed unit.
From my limited research, it seems like the older style tins no longer come on the new complete axles.

The solution would be to either seal up the extra holes somehow, or to reuse your old tins. I'm wondering how others have fixed the issue of grease coming out of the holes?

Kent

[Haasman]

To illustrate your point

[CidTito]

I rebuilt mine last year, and lucky for me, I found no corrosion. After a rather short decision to rebuild rather than buy new, I did forge ahead and did it. Parts were south of $40.00 for the pair. It took me most of one afternoon start to finish to do it making the hardest part for me, getting them out, and then putting them back in, but it wasn't "that" bad. Also, crimping those brackets back on was a bit frustrating. The greasy part wasn't bad at all. I have to say, you can make it a lot less messy if you don't use any of that grease they provide until the very last possible minute.

Tip:

1. Take your used blue surgical rubber glove and carefully stretch to encapsulate your rebuilding work while in other areas.
2. Carefully spend a little while wiping down the underside of your engine, transmission and other areas before starting. Its gonna to be a lot more pleasant as you reassemble.

[dummkopf]

Mine at 105K, new boots-grease, balls, etc look great. So is it really bad, or is the boot just broken? Seems kind of rare to be worn out or broken, unless the boot broke and all the grease escaped.