Things I found when I removed door panel...

[justacoupe]

Today I opened up the driver's side door of our '73 911E, removing the door panel, etc. The original reason I opened it up was to troubleshoot the door handle: I have to squeeze the "opening lever" all the way to get the door open. I wanted to adjust it so it would operate as originally designed (e.g. the door would open when the lever is depressed about 1/2 the distance of it's travel. If anyone has some advise on that subject (adjusting the release or opening lever), I'd appreciate it.

In any event, I did a search for another reason: I found some "stuff" in the bottom of the door when I removed the door panel. What I found is this:



another view:




I have figured out what the two springs are: obviously need replacements. They apparently go on the inside of the door where the lower door hinge "lever" operates... presumably to soften the door opening swing. Please correct me if I am wrong. I have yet to determine where I can get replacement springs.

But... the other part is apparently a rubber "buffer" that would seem to have dropped from wherever it was attached. Can anyone help me understand where it should go and how I can attach it properly? There doesn't seem to be any adhesive residue on the rubber.

Any assistance is very much appreciated!

Regards,

Bill
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[smedley]

The rubber piece is glued to the inside bottom about midway front to back. It acts as a buffer against the winder regulator when the window is lowered all the way down.....so there' no "bonk." It didn't fall, just came loose from old glue. You can re-located it by lowering the window and finding where the regulator arm touches the bottom of the door. Doubt if you can find springs unless you just find another entire stop mechanism.

[edmayo]

What Mark said, but in addition your trigger release doesn't release sooner because the plate the door trigger pushes against needs to be slightly bent back towards the outside door so the button will contact it sooner. Look up at the handle mechanism from inside the door,,,,operate the trigger and you'll see what I mean. Also make sure the three attachment screws of the door latch mechanism are tight.

[LongRanger]

. . . check/see if the door-tops have any numbers stamped on them

Here's a poll + pictures/details . . .

http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...hlight=numbers

[M_deJong]

Rick, wasn't '70 the last year for Karmann E's and '71 for T's?

Here is a thread about door stays. Post #6 has nice pictures. When I fixed mine I found some springs that were pretty close at the hardware store. I did too good a job cleaning and lubing mine to the extent that they rolled too easily and did not hold the door open very well. Getting better with time.

[LongRanger]

. . . wasn't '70 the last year for Karmann E's and '71 for T's? . . .

Hey, Mike . . .

I've never nailed it down

I was hoping someone w/ a Karmann-built '71 would turn-up and say/show what they found, but . . .


. . . hasn't happened, yet

[M_deJong]

Rick, my '71 Karmann coupe was built 4/71 per the door jam sticker and is near the last of the run #1924 of 1934.

I did post in another thread that my doors and decklid are numbered like yours.

[justacoupe]

Thank you very much for the helpful information. As a result, I have fixed all of the issues I discovered when I removed the door panel to research the door opening trigger issue.

1. Mark: Thank you for the info on the anti-rattle buffer. I was able to determine the correct location of the rubber "wedge" or "buffer" and place it as it was originally. There were some "witness" marks on that part of the inside bottom of the door. This close-up shows it in place now:



2. Mark: I did find that there is a "door stay rebuild" kit available from Sierra Madre (who I normally do not order from). It is at this link: http://www.sierramadrecollection.com...detail&p=11872 Rather than spend $36.93 for parts I didn't need, I decided to follow Mike's suggestion and found appropriate springs at my local full line hardware store. I disassembled the entire door stay mechanism, cleaned it up and lubed with white lithium grease and reassembled with the new springs. Door now opens and "stops" perfectly. Close up of mechanism inside the door:



3. Ed Mayo: thank you for the tip regarding the trigger pin that releases the door. However, rather than bend the plate as you suggested (feared I might screw it up), I decided to try another approach. I took a small diameter vacuum cap (the kind that plugs a vacuum line "tip") and inserted a bb (as in bb gun) into the cap. I then placed the cap over the pin that the trigger is attached to. The bb gave me to additional distance I needed between the pin and the plate. Now... the door works like a charm. Obviously, I am not certain this approach will serve me well over the long run, but I repeated the operation a dozen or more times and it seems like it will do the trick. Close up photo (look for the shiny black vacuum line cap):



Thanks again for all the help!

Regards,

Bill Waite
Grand Rapids, MI
'73 911E Original Owners - 66K Miles (Sepia)

[M_deJong]

Good work, enjoy the car!

[edmayo]

Nothing wrong with the extension trick! It's just knowing what the problem was.