engine building and 930 tensioners

[VintageExcellen]

Keeping my current engine build as close to orginal appearance as possible I am using new 930 tensioners on a 73 911S engine. I really do not like the look of updated pressure fed tensioners and I feel that the tensioner rumors and the need to upgrade to late style is nonsence.

Anyone have much experience with new in the box 930 tensioners? The latest version. I have installed a pair of these into a 73 911S engine the other day. Timed the cams with solid tensioners and then installed the new tensioners with the typical aluminum saftey collar. After a few minutes the new tensioners would squeeze down on their own and rest on their collars. I do not remember this happening on used tensioners I have re-installed in the past but I may not have noticed.

Do you need to do anything to prepare the new tensioner as it comes out of the box. I know it is recomended for the pressure fed tensioners to be soaked in oil when the pins are released. Do you have to pump up the spring loaded tensioners as well? Relieve pressure on the bleeder nut to remove air bubbles? Squeezing down a tensioner with a channel lock or vise is very difficult as fast pressure is applied, but slow pressure gives the tensioner more movement/less resistance over time.

The pictures below show the tensioners as I installed them and the again a few minutes after they have settled. There seems to be a clearance issue and no room for the collars. I know new chains can sometimes be tight and I am using the race quality chains. Anyone have any thoughts? I have not bought many new tensioners in the past and often used solid tensioners so I have not thought about these issues on the past, since I am building a very expensive car I figure why not use new tensioners rather than rebuild the old ones.

[gled49]

I always rebuild tensioners, or bleed new ones. Don't trust they are bled properly. If you had been in the service business prior to mid 80's, you would always install pressure fed. With the new idler arms the 930 tensioner has become a viable option again.

[VintageExcellen]

Yes I was not in the service business in the 80s as I was in elementary school then. I have not seen many of the very first generation tensioners in early engines that I have opened up, even on very low mile cars. When we get into later style tensioners, 2nd and 3rd generation, I have rarely seen them fail.

I always use Supertec's little creation which is to add a bushing to the original idler arm this makes them work like the updated arms but at half the cost.

I think I will try to bleed one of these new tensioners and see what happens.

[RSTarga]

bleed them with 60wt oil and you'll be fine.

[edmayo]

Mark, for what it is worth,,,I take new tensioners apart and thoroughly bleed them, but use 60 wt. oil. Been doing this for I guess 30 years now, no failures that I ever heard about. Also important to get that reservoir on top as full possible and still get the snap ring on.

[edmayo]

bleed them with 60wt oil and you'll be fine.

Dave, I think we were typing in unison!!

[gled49]

it isn't the bushings completely, it is the wider bearing support of the new arms.

[VintageExcellen]

it isn't the bushings completely, it is the wider bearing support of the new arms.

Yes I agree the wider support helps the idler arm significantly, that is what has been done with the Supertec update, as pictured here.

Thanks for the info guys, I will dissasemble the tensioners, clean them out and fill them with 60wt.