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Thread: Engine cleaning tips

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Montreal
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    142

    Engine cleaning tips

    I've removed the engine for the winter for a good cleaning and timing chain tensioner maintenance. I have the engine on a stand and must admit I am getting a little frustrated at trying to get it clean, tried an assortement of degreasers and what not. Been thinking of these steam cleaning machines, are they strong enough. Anyone have any tips they would like to share.
    1968 911T R.O.W. / 68S engine.

  2. #2
    They work well. BUT, you realize that after you clean all the oil off of it, then you will need to put oil (or wax) back on it, right?

    Tectyl, Gibbs, Waxol, Marinefoam, etc. Choose your poison.

  3. #3
    less wing, more brass bxd's Avatar
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    Mar 2010
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    S.F. Bay Area
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    577
    Just went on a MAJOR cleaning binge - both engine and gearbox had 40+ years of baked-on, stuck-on, spattered-on "patina" - and this is what I found to work best: combination of Oil Eater and Gibbs Oil, LOTS of elbow grease and LOTS of patience.

    Technique:

    Prep: Drain oil and trans fluid. Remove engine/trans from the car. Separate engine and trans, remove intake system, remove exhaust system, remove fan asmbly and shrouding. Plug all vents and holes (I used red plastic caps and silicone to prevent water ingress). Remove the throw-out bearing in the trans bell-housing. Get a big wide, flat tray to place under the case being cleaned.

    Cleaning: Spray Oil Eater on the case liberally, and then use a (very) stiff brush (like those found in commercial parts washers) to scour the burnished-on oil into a foam. Keep spraying Oil Eater onto the area while you're scouring. DO NOT use anything that may scratch the case, especially if it's magnesium. Use a wooden paint stick to scrape excess build-up - DO NOT use a metal scraper. ONLY after you've scoured the entire case should you rinse with liberal amounts of water (I used a high-pressure nozzle on an outdoor garden hose). Dry the case with a towel, then go back over the areas that need further attention. Don't try to use Oil Eater while the case is wet, it doesn't have the same potency.

    IMPORTANT: The waste water is highly contaminated, so DO NOT wash it down the storm drain. Collect it as you go and dispose of it at your local waste facility.

    Once you're done cleaning, let the case dry for at least a day. Then liberally spray Gibbs all over the entire case and let it soak into the metal for another day. Wipe-off any excess pooling in the nooks and crannies.

    Reassemble.

    Done.

    *Note, I emptied oil and trans fluid first, and then allowed them to fully drain again after cleaning, before adding the proper fluids back in. Just in case and water found its way in.
    Jordan
    rally-prepped '69 911T 3.0L
    S Registry #1933
    Vintage Parts & Restoration http://retro-sport.com

  4. #4
    Thread Killer dummkopf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Mound, Louisiana
    Posts
    659
    I used a hot water pressure washer. The kind that uses kerosene. That is the ONLY thing I found that would cut the 30 some of years of grease the easy way. Oh, wear an old slicker suit and safely goggles.

    I sure you already have but... I removed the carbs and enough of the shrouds to get to the cylinders. Also removed the fan/alternator assembly. Taped up the intakes really well. Put several layers of clear plastic on the oil lines, breather lines and all other orifices with zip ties to secure.

    Good luck!
    72 911S Targa #0807 95+% German.

    Paul Harrop 12.5% German.

    Early S #2059

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