It's a pretty easy fix. Most important is the correct seals and they must be glued in correctly. Uniformed all the way and trimmed clean.
.
It's a pretty easy fix. Most important is the correct seals and they must be glued in correctly. Uniformed all the way and trimmed clean.
.
Steve Var.
_____________
61 356B
67S
66 912
66 Fulvia
72 914
Candyce,
This is really an easy fix if you just take your time. Use a plastic scraper to remove the old seals and clean the old glue with 3m glue remover. There is a brush on glue from Wurth, or just use the 3m seal glue, apply to the channel and smear on the seal, wait about 10 minutes and glue in. Try a test fit before using glue.
David
'73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs
After much discussion as to type of seals, the door and trunk seals were ordered and received from Stoddard. I think I have the correct style of seals to match the profile of what is there. I took the seals with me today to show the auto upholstery guys.
The seals now in the car are the original factory-installed seals. FYI: the cut on the upper right hand corner of the driver's side is a straight cut across. The vertical piece is slightly tucked up under the lip of the horizontal piece. To see the cut, a little flap needs to be pulled up. It is not a mitered joint.
Candyce
'73 911S, #9113301365
Early S Registry #2027
I am trying to prepare the car for Salt Lake City and do as much as I can myself. What are these? How do I gently clean them? I do not want to use any harsh chemicals. Can I use a fine grade of steel wool to remove the corrosion?
Thank you!!
Candyce
'73 911S, #9113301365
Early S Registry #2027
I'd put a jack under the engine to unload them (weight) and take them off the car. You can glass bead or buy new ones fairly cheap. Under $25 each.
Tom
Early S Registry #235
rgruppe #111
Those are the engine supports. I agree a set of new ones would be best especially since the rubber on these is probably shot as well. Might as well do the transmission ones at the same time.
David
'73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs
See if you can have the hardware, bolts, yellow zinc re-plated. I believe they would have been Cadmium plated originally, but that stuff is a carcinogen and is done by very few shops now. Maybe the new mounts will come w hardware, but not likely to be the original Kmax brand.
Mark Erbesfield
2018 911 Carrera T 7spd manual 😊
1973 911S #9113301282
1957 356A #58648
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
1982 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1977 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1972 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FST (Factory Soft Top)
1971 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 “Patina Queen”
1979 MB 450SL "Dad's old car"
2019 Cayenne "Wife's car"
On my 73S Targa those plates were painted black originally. To restore I bead blasted them and had them powder coated. The other bolts and washers I had yellow-zinc plated. Turned out great.
BillM
Interesting question. I have black bodies with cad plated washers and through bolts... but that doesn't mean they are right. So I looked through lots of photos in my archive and came up with the attached. I've got loads of engine shots, but for some reason I never seem to include the motor mounts.. go figure.
The shot below is of one of our own members concourse winning '73 RS. FWIW I'd assume his mounts are correct, but would appreciate input from the gallery.
Kent
Last edited by kentf14; 06-17-2012 at 04:10 PM.
E911SR & RGRUPPE
'65 911 "The Ol' Gal" (long gone)
'73 S Coupe #306
I too have black bodies with cad plated washers and bolts.
David
'73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs