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Thread: Need Help: Suspension Options

  1. #11
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    4,268
    On my 73 Targa I went with all Elephant Rubber. I think John's recommendations are excellent. My mistakes? Putting 21 T bars on the front, I've got 26 at the rear which are fine,and using Koni yellow Sport gas at the rear. I was forced into the rear Koni's as they discontinued the reds in adjustable gas. Too bouncy as marco said and don't give you a secure feeling in the wet.
    I also have Turbo Tie rods, very good, and the Carrera type spring plates for ease of adjustment. My roll bars are stock S bars and work fine.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  2. #12
    Senior Member CidTito's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Emeryville, California
    Posts
    416
    hey thanks.. i am trying to piece everything together.

    hmmm

    - I would like to get some new bushings for the factory drop links. I can't seem to comfirm if I have identified the right ones.

    - also looking to find the correct pivot ball that screws into the aluminum trailing arms.
    E911SR #2107
    69 911T/S SWT 3.2L
    RG #384

  3. #13
    Senior Member CidTito's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Emeryville, California
    Posts
    416
    I'm torn between using a "found" factory rear sway bar and spending a bunch on new bushings ect., or buying a new kit on pelican. Im looking welding the Wevo Chassis console and pivot ball on my aluminum control arms. Man- what a rabbit hole. Anyone want to kudos doing the factory ($200 rebuild) vs new name brand ($299-399) kit?

    Ill still be spending $550 for wevo/pivot parts and labor and $200 for corner balancing.

    The 69 targa swt has factory front swaybars.
    Last edited by CidTito; 11-02-2012 at 07:41 AM.
    E911SR #2107
    69 911T/S SWT 3.2L
    RG #384

  4. #14
    member #1515
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    4,268
    Since you don't have a roll bar now, I'd start with the factory setup first. Mybe later you might want to upgrade. Spend the money on new rubber bushings, this will also make the car feel better.
    David

    '73 S Targa #0830 2.7 MFI rebuilt to RS specs

  5. #15
    912->911 conversion
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by scolson View Post
    When done the car will be lowered slightly (to European ride height). My goal is to have a car that handles exceptionally well on the road (no track), yet rides comfortably enough for my wife to not complain too much.
    I appreciate this question, as I am (will be if I ever get around to it) the same boat. When I bought my 912 it was running radically low, and with the addition of the flat 6, it needs some work to be more "grand tourer" than "street fighter".

    Cheers,
    Keith
    Keith Adams
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    Early 911S Registry #906 | PCA member IG: @912R
    1969 Blutorange 912R - 912 to 911 conversion
    1969 Mercedes 280 SE (W111) Coupe

  6. #16
    I don't see starting with an aftermarket setup as an "upgrade". In fact, I tend to prefer stock parts when given the choice.

    However, the benefit of going with an aftermarket setup from Smart Racing, for example, allows you to run the bar without having to modify the trailing arms for pickup points as the bar's drop links bolt to the spring plates.

    This can save lots of time and $$$$ in regard to rear control arms and modification(s). Aftermarket bars are also (typically) adjustable which allows you to start at the softest setting and work your way up.

    If you have no sway bar currently fitted then aftermarket is, by far, the best way to go as it will be the cheapest and probably most effective option long-term.
    -Marco
    SReg. #778 OGrp: #8 RGrp: #---
    TLG Auto: Website
    Searching for engine #907495 and gearbox 902/1 #229687

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