I redid my whole car, that is, trunk, engine bay, underside, fender wells, and interior floor, but I don't remember how many bottles I used. I want to say that a trunk area was about 2-3 bottles, if you can extrapolate from that.
I redid my whole car, that is, trunk, engine bay, underside, fender wells, and interior floor, but I don't remember how many bottles I used. I want to say that a trunk area was about 2-3 bottles, if you can extrapolate from that.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
Mark, 12 bottles. It's pretty expensive and it takes many hours to do correctly. To do it right requires the professional gun.
1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen
Eight bottles for me...
John Forcier
EarlyS #1987
1968 911 Race Car "Grun Hilda"
1969 S/T interpretation "Blau Healer"
Restoration Saga
My 67S [9/66 German delivery] does have grey PVC under original paint in the interior rear and in the rear wheel wells.
Thanks for the count. Interesting that it took 304065 12 bottles vs your 8. That's 50% more product. Did you both do the same areas? Underside, inner fenders, inside car, engine compartment? Did you both shoot the insides of the front fenders? Did you shoot with the front fenders on or off the car?
Mark Erbesfield
2018 911 Carrera T 7spd manual 😊
1973 911S #9113301282
1957 356A #58648
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
1982 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1977 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1972 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FST (Factory Soft Top)
1971 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 “Patina Queen”
1979 MB 450SL "Dad's old car"
2019 Cayenne "Wife's car"
Okay, presuming the volume of product is the same (UPOL Gravitex/Wurth SKS), my 8x 1 litre bottle break down is as follows
3.25x on floor and inner rear wheel houses
.75x for engine bay
1x on front wheel houses
.75x for front inner fenders (done separately)
.5x for underside of hood
1.25x for interior, floor and rear parcel shelf
.5 for front luggage area
I have 2 additional bottles for the gas tank...
UPOL Gravitex is solvent based. I used a generic gun set to 55psi, temps were about 25C (78F?) and the stuff was flowing very quickly.
John Forcier
EarlyS #1987
1968 911 Race Car "Grun Hilda"
1969 S/T interpretation "Blau Healer"
Restoration Saga
Mark Erbesfield
2018 911 Carrera T 7spd manual 😊
1973 911S #9113301282
1957 356A #58648
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ45LV
1982 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1977 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
1972 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FST (Factory Soft Top)
1971 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 “Patina Queen”
1979 MB 450SL "Dad's old car"
2019 Cayenne "Wife's car"
FWIW, there is a ton of stuff out there on water based products. Clear coats have not developed well that use water base technology SO you still end up shooting a solvent based clear. Doh! Manufacturers have been using the technology but it's far from perfect because in all of the hub-bub about environment you still end up shooting solvent based urethane clears.
My plan is to use the best known for performance and longevity there is for and metal prep and undercoating on my 356. If it is solvent based then so be it. When you drop the kind of money it costs to do one right the last thing I'm cutting is corners on the finished metal work.
I applaud those of you like Ed who are trying. Sooner than later you won't have a choice in CA.
Early S Registry #235
rgruppe #111
That's true in that individuals and independent shops can still use solvent based products (and Tom I had heard the same info about clear coat) but what is happening is the cost of solvent based paints is going through the roof! And to also agree with Tom (oh dear ) professional type shops will sooner or later be forced into waster based paints. And yeah, it'll start in California. But just to be contrary I still use my gas powered lawn mower and weed eater.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.