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Thread: Discreet OEM+ Upgrades for 1967 S?

  1. #1
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    Discreet OEM+ Upgrades for 1967 S?

    My 1967 S is currently undergoing restoration, and the time is getting near to start thinking about suspension and mechanicals. With an eye towards originality, I'd like to focus on more OEM +/plus type of upgrades to do. Ones that are discreet or easily reversed. So far I'm thinking:

    1. Headlights - the Marchals on this Italian delivery car are VERY weak.
    2. "Floodlights" above bumper (I like the look)
    3. PolyBronze Bushings all around
    4. Stainless Steel Brake lines
    5. Upgraded Sway Bars (OEM)
    6. Electronic CDI Box from PartsKlassic
    7. Add Inertia-reel Seat Belt System (ala later cars)
    8. Stainless Steel Heat Exchangers

    Assume everything else will be restored to "as-new" but what else do people suggest or recommend? Can be anything...

  2. #2
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    I'm a hacker, so it would be a long list

  3. #3
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    I'm happy to hear peoples thoughts and distill them down. The car has some upgrades on it already, but I'd like to start fresh since everything is apart.

  4. #4
    I would suggest renewing the rubber bushings rather than adding bushings that need regular greasing to keep from binding up (the grease holds dirt).
    1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened
    Early 911S Registry Member #425

  5. #5
    Member Ken F's Avatar
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    If you plan to drive the car I think CDI is a must. I fouled a lot of plugs sorting things out and that all changed when I installed the Perma-Tune in mine.
    I also like the inertia-reel seatbelts. I bought mine from the guys in Los Osos, don't know if they're still available. They use the existing pickup points with different eyebolts. Can't vouch for their efficacy in a crash but it's gotta be better than the stock lap belt in the original mounting location.
    Dual circuit master cylinder, If I was to do it over I'd do this an still may some day.
    Turbo tie rod ends. you can get the long ones from Elephant. I don't know about the difference in feel but no fixture required to properly set up .

  6. #6
    Headlights I assume use H1 bulbs?
    I would suggest installing relays (perhaps hide them in the headlight bucket) which usually significantly improve lighting efficiency.
    Renn-Spot - Cars & parts For Sale - http://renn-spot.blogspot.com/
    1970 911"S" - Black (originally silver)
    1974 911"S" - Silver
    1973 911"T" - Bahia Red - Now Sold
    10 sec 67 VW
    Early "S" Registry #439

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Flieger View Post
    I would suggest renewing the rubber bushings rather than adding bushings that need regular greasing to keep from binding up (the grease holds dirt).
    Agreed, way too racy for an otherwise stock vintage street car. New rubber bushiings should be fine.
    Renn-Spot - Cars & parts For Sale - http://renn-spot.blogspot.com/
    1970 911"S" - Black (originally silver)
    1974 911"S" - Silver
    1973 911"T" - Bahia Red - Now Sold
    10 sec 67 VW
    Early "S" Registry #439

  8. #8
    Senior Member gulf908's Avatar
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    5.5" Fuchs(no need to tweak the fenders),'68 dual circuit master cylinder (+1=safety move),CDI and a 100 litre tank !

    Cheers,
    Dennis
    1970 914-6 - materialised from the 'Lotto' garage into reality
    1971 2.2 911 S - now back in the UK - sob!
    1975 Carrera Targa (ROW) - missed.
    One of us is fast becoming a valuable antique.
    S Registry member 536
    Australian TYP 901 Register Member 44

  9. #9
    Senior Member HughH's Avatar
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    Agree on digital CDI ( I have a partsklassic one in my 73 and the original anologue one in storage) and on Dave's suggestion on relays for the lights. A period upgrade on top of that is to use the swb light buckets etc but put a CIBIE, marchal or Carrello biode light set up in as well. Then have lots of light with a period rallye look. I also have the stainless heat exchangers but have the whole system ceramic coated in very close to the original grey. Agree on the brake changes - master cylinder and lines. Agree on turbo tie rods and oem sway bars but not too big if not wanting to track the car or use it in similar way but replace all bushings etc with stock rather than non stook "upgrade". For inside inertia reel belts a must as are good seats. Also if have stock radio and sometimes use it upgrade with iPod fitting. Also if have engine part at any stage upgraded oil pump ( mine is turbo but I understand other later ones can be adapted) is good to keep oil pressure up. However the best upgrade I have done in recent years is really good tires with period sizes - i have Avon's - CR6ZZ's on now and they are a major difference ( but won't last long but I not drive it like u would a modern daily driver)
    Hugh Hodges
    73 911E
    Melbourne Australia

    Foundation Member #005
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    Early S Registry #776

  10. #10
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    I would not bother with the stainless flex lines, although I think the stainless hard lines are okay. OEM rubber lines work very well, and I have heard of problems with the stainless flex lines; I only used them once a long time ago.
    Porsche Historian, contact for Kardex & CoA-type Reports
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