Like the title says. It sticks and causing high revs.
TB were rebuilt by Eurometrics
MFI pump by Pacific
All new bushings.
Well lubricated.
What am I missing?
I want to add a strong spring somewhere!
Arrgh!
Like the title says. It sticks and causing high revs.
TB were rebuilt by Eurometrics
MFI pump by Pacific
All new bushings.
Well lubricated.
What am I missing?
I want to add a strong spring somewhere!
Arrgh!
bob moglia
'72 E sunroof coupe
Check the hand throttle bell crank in the tunnel. It's plastic, gets brittle, breaks, hangs up throttle rod. If your're going in there just get a new one.....even if the old one is intact....it's still aging.
Mark Smedley
'59 VW Typ I
'69 911T 2.7
'15 GT3
'16 Boxster GTS
Rebuilt and replaced but I'll check again
thanks
bob moglia
'72 E sunroof coupe
Well I found the problem.
The TB butterfly valve to #3 is REALLY stiff.
Everything else is fine.
I had the throttle bodies rebuilt, can they just fail?
Obviously I have to get the throttle body out.
My plan:remove the stack, disconnect injection lines then remove the throttle body.
I don't have to drop the engine, do I?
I've done that before, I have an oil leak at the chain housing and was planning on dropping it in the spring.
Winter is coming and I won't have time for it this year.
Can I rebuild this myself or do I have to send it out again?
Any and all advice appreciated.
Last edited by robmog; 10-11-2015 at 04:16 PM.
bob moglia
'72 E sunroof coupe
Why wouldn't you just send the TB back to Eurometrics to fix it?
Chuck
Early 911S registry #380
'70S
'75S
'96 C4S
'65 R69S
Bob, it just takes 1) time, about four hours uninterrupted, and 2) a stahlwille magnetic retreival tool, so when you drop something down the open stacks you can get it out without having to drop the engine and turn it upside down!
Good cars are Haunted. Usually when the throttle sticks it's at the end of the longest straight on the track. Not really kidding. So good cars are haunted and they will malfunction in your driveway, or when you are loading them onto the trailer (as mine did, with precisely the same failure mode, on the way to the track).
Remove aircleaner. Remove link between crossbar and pump. Remove M6 nuts and washers from stacks. Remove stacks and throttle linkage. Remove M6 nuts and washers from throttle bodies, remove TBs. When you remove the hard lines, remember that there is high pressure fuel in them, before you use a 17mm flare wrench to take the flare nuts off the pump be sure to have a towel handy to catch the spray of fuel.
Oh, and you should probably extinguish your Monte Cristo #2 before performing this operation lest a fireball result!
Good luck, it's not super complicated just takes time. Matt will make it right if it's his issue. I would be concerned that the plate was sticking in the bore due to adjustment of the plate stop screw, but once you get it apart you can figure it out.
And see here also for some tips from when I did this nine years ago:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...tion-last.html
1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen
Well I just got up from working in the barn and then I see all this great info!
But I muddled through it and managed to get it right.
And it only took 2.5 hours!
And I didn't drop anything into the engine, whoop whoop!
It does look like a sticking plate, good call.
I talked to Matt, he said send them in and he'll sort it out.
Haunted, just in time for Halloween!
Thanks!
bob moglia
'72 E sunroof coupe