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Thread: Rebuilding a 2.2S engine - help re: "upgrades"

  1. #1
    Senior Member Simonjjb's Avatar
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    Rebuilding a 2.2S engine - help re: "upgrades"

    Hi,

    I am restoring a 1971S and have been faithfully keeping all the components as original and as much as factory as possible. I am sure others have considered this question - what, if any, upgrades would you make to the engine that would enhance the performance/life etc, but stop short of meaningfully changing the engine? I see some call these "mild" upgrades or enhancements that improve the wear and tear. Thanks
    1968 911L Coupe - Golden Green
    1971 911S Coupe - Gemini Blue
    1973 911S Targa - Signal Yellow
    1974 914 2.3 - Sunflower Yellow

  2. #2
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    From your title I assume it's a full rebuild. I pulled my invoice when Competition Engineering did the machine work on our 69S back in 2012. Two things that stand out is Walt installed "case savers" and also modified the case for something he calls "late oil bypass". He also provided a 2.4/2.7 oil pump, late model rocker arms, and ARP rod bolts. Not sure if this helps but just pointing out the route a well known shop went.

    Scott
    69 911S #1379
    65 356 SC #130757

  3. #3
    Senior Member Simonjjb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott72 View Post
    From your title I assume it's a full rebuild. I pulled my invoice when Competition Engineering did the machine work on our 69S back in 2012. Two things that stand out is Walt installed "case savers" and also modified the case for something he calls "late oil bypass". He also provided a 2.4/2.7 oil pump, late model rocker arms, and ARP rod bolts. Not sure if this helps but just pointing out the route a well known shop went.

    Scott
    Yes, full rebuild. Thanks for the input.
    1968 911L Coupe - Golden Green
    1971 911S Coupe - Gemini Blue
    1973 911S Targa - Signal Yellow
    1974 914 2.3 - Sunflower Yellow

  4. #4
    Clean, Clean Clean. Other than what has been mentioned I like Turbo Kraft rocker shaft locks and Henry at SuperTec sells an engine sealant kit that is up to date. Again, it can't be too clean. Now lets hear from the real engine people.
    Have a great weekend

  5. #5
    These are the reliability upgrades I did when I built my '70T engine:

    - wide bushings on the idler arms (send them to Supertec)
    - rebuilt 930 chain tensioners
    - oil bypass mod for the case
    - aluminum body four-rib oil pump
    - piston squirters (I went with Mahle S p/c's so this was necessary)
    - case savers everywhere

    Ollie's did all the case work.

  6. #6
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    For a rebuild, I would do the following....

    • Good cleaning of the engine case and parts (including the engine "plugs" for the oil galleries...)
    • Oil bypass modification (you can also go for Carrera oil pump...)
    • It's a 2.2l engine, so would upgrade the engine case for later intermediate shaft bearing
    • Oil squirters (Inside the case modification or on the rods, personal I would prefer inside the case….)
    • Checking and balancing of crankshaft, flywheel and rods (rebushing of them and use of ARP rod bolts)
    • Hydraulic chain tensioner (or rebuild of old ones with use of collars, a kind of chain tensioner guard set…)
    • ACL bearing for rods (actually the quality of Glyco isn’t so great….)
    • Dilavar Headstuds / ARP with Time Sert inserts… ( I would start with Time Serts, not so sure with the bigger case saver. In case of a later fail of Time Serts, you could go to the case savers… Case savers are more or less “bigger” case savers like Big Serts)

  7. #7
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    Simon

    If you are interested in improved performance and driveability and if your pistons and cylinders are worn, you might consider increasing the displacement to 2.5 liters. I am doing this on my 2.2E engine. I had my cylinders bored to 86 mm and I am using the 2.4/2.7 crankshaft. I am also using the 9.5 CR JE 86 mm pistons and a Mod S cam grind. The engine will keep it's stock appearance but will have better performance and low end torque.
    Tom Butler
    1973 RSR Clone
    1970 911E
    914-6 GT Clone in Progress

  8. #8
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    Follow Noah's thread and Elferheifer's about the Dilavar head studs . The new Mahle cylinders are aluminum with Nikasil so use Dilavar , better to have a broken cylinder head stud than a cracked case . Also have Ollie's weld and use deep case savers at the # 3 cylinder . I really like Noah's recommendation about the upgraded idler arms and 930 tensioners , stock appearing - unlike using pressure fed tensioners . With tensioner safety collars and Noah's recommendation you will not have a failure .

  9. #9
    This Toms humble opinion is that you do not change anything about the character of your 2.2S motor. The original manufacturer of your pistons and cylinders still makes replacements, you should buy them. The car is valuable because it was the nats ass when it was new, don’t change it into something else.
    Tom F.

    '67 911S Slate Gray
    '70 911T 2.8 hotrod (in progress)
    '92 964

    #736

  10. #10
    Agreed. Add short gears and have fun.

    Quote Originally Posted by tfiv View Post
    This Toms humble opinion is that you do not change anything about the character of your 2.2S motor. The original manufacturer of your pistons and cylinders still makes replacements, you should buy them. The car is valuable because it was the nats ass when it was new, don’t change it into something else.
    Renn-Spot - Cars & parts For Sale - http://renn-spot.blogspot.com/
    1970 911"S" - Black (originally silver)
    1974 911"S" - Silver
    1973 911"T" - Bahia Red - Now Sold
    10 sec 67 VW
    Early "S" Registry #439

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