Removing Steering rack

[1969911T]

Starting to put my original(rebuilt) rack in and going to do it myself, this time.

I have turbo tie rods(not that makes any difference)and wondering if I can pull the tie rods and steering rack out the right side?
Or do I have to remove the tie rods, then the rack “falls” out from behind the cross-member?
Or do I have to also remove the cross-member?

Read posts and several manuals(except the workshop manual that I do not have) any they differ, but seem to say to remove the tie rods, then the rack falls out.

Collective wisdom is requested. 1969 model
Thanks Steve

[1969911T]

Early answer is the 1972 steering rack came out the right side, tie rods and all-once I removed the two cover plates. One cover plate holds the steel.pressure pad that holds the rack against the pinion and the the other cover plate is for the pinion bearings. Did not have to loosen or remove the cross member.

Getting the bolts loosened that hold the steering rack to the cross member required grinding about 1/8" off a 17 mm socket(has to be 3/8" drive) to make sure the the socket was fully seated before loosening. Rounding off one of the bolt heads would have been a nightmare!

Quite a few differences between my 1969 and the 1972. Will take some pics and post later

[Scott A]

On my 71. I did not remove the tie rods.
To me it seems, it mostly drops straight down. And hits the master cylinder, that’s when you pull it to the right.

It was easier to have the tie rods already installed. Especially to get the rubber boots on right, and those loop springs.

I can’t remember everything about the cross member.
But I do think it needs unbolting, and you can angle it down and out of the way, dangling from the front suspension bushings. Which may need loosening.

[rsrmatt]

Below are some pictures of the steering rack in my 67. I didn't try to remove or install the rack with the subframe in place, but don't see that there would be much room. It's about 10 bolts to drop the subframe and front a arm pickup points and I would think makes life easier to maneuver around the master cylinder. I would also replace the fuel soft line down there while the rack is out. I did brake hard lines and master cylinder as well. That's a bigger job though...

[Bert]

Hello,

Where did you have your steering rack rebuilt?

Would you recommend the shop?

Thanks,

Starting to put my original(rebuilt) rack in and going to do it myself, this time.

I have turbo tie rods(not that makes any difference)and wondering if I can pull the tie rods and steering rack out the right side?
Or do I have to remove the tie rods, then the rack “falls” out from behind the cross-member?
Or do I have to also remove the cross-member?

Read posts and several manuals(except the workshop manual that I do not have) any they differ, but seem to say to remove the tie rods, then the rack falls out.

Collective wisdom is requested. 1969 model
Thanks Steve

[1969911T]

I rebuilt the rack myself. Two new bearings, a seal and a plastic button (called a plastic puck). Not hard, even without reading all the posts. The 69 steering rack will go through the right side opening without dropping the cross member but you have to temporarily remove the cover for the plastic puck with the two bolts. I ordered new bellows for a 69, but found out the turbo tie rods use a different bellows-its always something!
Steve

[Bert]

Thanks Steve.

[rsrmatt]

Hello,

Where did you have your steering rack rebuilt?

Would you recommend the shop?

Thanks,

If you're looking for a shop in the LA area, BBI Autosport is a shop I can vouch for. I worked with Betim (owner) at Porsche Motorsport about 15 years ago. He also brought on a long time friend of mine who has been working on air-cooled cars for 20+ years (when not working as an alms or Indycar mechanic). They really go the next level...

[1969911T]

Update
Got the original steering rack in with the tie rods and boots attached without doing anything to the cross member The 1980 steering rack had the rack shorter by 5.25mm, so had to shorten each tie rod by half the 5.25 to maintain toe in.

A Harbor Freight ball joint removal tool worked great

An Amazon 33mm wrench worked well for getting the turbo tie rods on and off. Had to grind about .050” off the side of the wrench to fit the available slot.

Had a strange piece(center piece in the pic) on the shaft that connects the steering rack to the first u-joint. . This strange piece fits inside the roller bearing rubber bushing, so I guess this is where it goes. The PET does not show this and the fit is not very tight, so after the first bump it will probably fall down the shaft. Has anyone else seen this and is my guess correct?
Thanks
Steve

[TheTorch]

I rebuilt the rack myself. Two new bearings, a seal and a plastic button (called a plastic puck). Not hard, even without reading all the posts. The 69 steering rack will go through the right side opening without dropping the cross member but you have to temporarily remove the cover for the plastic puck with the two bolts. I ordered new bellows for a 69, but found out the turbo tie rods use a different bellows-its always something!
Steve

This saved my afternoon. Could not figure out why the workshop manual just said pull it out to the right. No way it would make it without removing the cover. Thanks so much.

Where did you source the oil seal and bearings? It looks like I will have to wreck the seal to get it off, and want to make sure I can get a seal. Thx.
C