1972 Engine Mount R&R

[McOtto]

Greetings. While I am not experiencing obvious vibration or rumbling noises, the engine mount rubber bushings on my ‘72 appear to be original and after 52 years of use, deteriorating around the edges. While less significant, there is also some wear/paint loss on the mount housings and stop plates (all appropriately black) that I want to cosmetically clean up (BTW - let me know if you have a source for original yellow plated Kamax Class 8.8 M12 x 1.5 x 92 and Verbus Class 8.8 M8 x 35 bolts).

To mentally prepare for removal and replacement, I compiled some references which are attached. Even though I have never done this before, the retrofit seems reasonably straight forward (famous last words). However, because I do not know what I do not know (and have a natural tendency for self-induced trouble), I am hoping those amongst us with experience can help me make a “go / no go” decision. And if “go”, help me understand the essential considerations and variables.

A couple of questions that initially come to mind include:

Stop Plate Orientation - What is conventional wisdom on stop plate orientation? Should they be positioned as Dr. Porsche originally intended or reversed per Technical Bulletin 78-01?

Bushing Replacement - Lightly used, period-correct and genuine Porsche flat-type replacement engine mounts are on their way. The pre-purchase photos show the rubber bushings in very good condition and the seller is very reputable. But would it be wise to go ahead and secure/install replacement rubber bushings?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Bryan

https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...NGINE-MOUNT-72

https://youtu.be/5ciEh9n06tY?si=Od8VrC_SvtpimSoS

[Longballa]

If it were me I'd press out the original rubber bushing and install The Rennline bushing as they are easy to replace and are a sport rubber. Repaint the original mounts and washers since you have the rubber removed. I run the concave down as the theory it's going to stiffen them up slightly. Improves shifting as the transmission and engine won't move as much and you'll get zero vibrations as it's still rubber. I wouldn't use old mounts regardless how they look.

[McOtto]

I thought I would add a reference photo showing the engine compartment, which hopefully reinforces why I am focused on the small details.

[McOtto]

If it were me I'd press out the original rubber bushing and install The Rennline bushing as they are easy to replace and are a sport rubber. Repaint the original mounts and washers since you have the rubber removed. I run the concave down as the theory it's going to stiffen them up slightly. Improves shifting as the transmission and engine won't move as much and you'll get zero vibrations as it's still rubber. I wouldn't use old mounts regardless how they look.

Thank you, Longballa! That makes perfect sense.

[Richy]

Looks nice , where are the clips on the left deck lid hinge for the license plate light wiring harness ?

[McOtto]

Looks nice , where are the clips on the left deck lid hinge for the license plate light wiring harness ?

Thank you, Richy. I will add the clips to my list. Additional critique is welcomed and encouraged.

Since the photo was taken, I have also changed some of the hose clamps. A few were not the proper yellow-plated “cheese head” type.