Is there a trick to not have the rubber bunch up like this when installing?
John
The original had cuts in it at that point.
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Is there a trick to not have the rubber bunch up like this when installing?
John
The original had cuts in it at that point.
![]()
1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.
Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com
Registry #983
R Gruppe #741
I remember that one being a bear to do, especially with who-knows-what for a replacement seal. If original had cuts, I would do same, makes sense in that location. Otherwise, I remember making a wooden jig and using clamps to get where I could get screws and L-brackets to align and the seal seated in a uniform way. Patience is key! I may have ended cleaning and reusing the original seal at least once. GL!
John Schiavone
Connecticut
356 Cab, 66 911, 914-6, 550-Beck, 981 Cayman, 54 MV Agusta Dustbid
Thanks John! There must be a trick the restorers use.
John
1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.
Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com
Registry #983
R Gruppe #741
After using Porsche, rubber, and installing on the glass, then installing the glass into the frame and tapping gently to seat it all completely in the channel, the wrinkle virtually disappears. Its getting harder these days since even dealer sourced parts aren't the same quality they used to be. Even with the Porsche triangle on the bag isn't what it was years ago. All you can do is experiment or maybe find someone with last week experience.
Early S Registry member #90
R Gruppe member #138
Fort Worth Tx.
Thanks Ed!
John
1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.
Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com
Registry #983
R Gruppe #741
Here's a video on how to do it from my friends at the 356 Registry.
John
1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.
Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com
Registry #983
R Gruppe #741
That whole series by Mike on Youtube is an amazing resource.
Brian
L.A. and SE Indiana
Ex-Joe Rusz Polo Red '67 911 "Rudi" 306297
'74 Olympic Blue 914 2.0
'23 Macan S
I usually prefer "experienced" seals and for the glass-to-frame seal, I just reuse originals and swap sides so the oxidized surface is facing the inside. Just lazy, I guess.
techweenie.com
My parts fetcher: 2016 Tesla S | Currently building: 73 RSR tribute and 69 RS tribute