Hi,
i want to convert my US spec to euro spec.
where did you guys buy them?
and how does it fit, from my understanding only the lens is available and you have to bond it to the existing housing?
thanks
tenn
Hi,
i want to convert my US spec to euro spec.
where did you guys buy them?
and how does it fit, from my understanding only the lens is available and you have to bond it to the existing housing?
thanks
tenn
Tenn - you are correct. Search the Technical section. You'll see Boyle's explanation of the project.
Lenses usually run about $55 ea for the fronts and $85 each for the rears. Some reproductions do not have "Bosch" on them.
If you need help sourcing them let me know.
_B
Sent from a pay phone
888888 eL, Oph'eL'ia
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Hi,
I've done this project a couple of time now.
You will need:
soldering iron
ten small strong spring clamps with rubber tips
clear adhesive caulk
Semi-Chrome polish or other metal polish
razor knife of small wood chisel
1. Remove unit from the car and mark the wire positions if necessary.
2. Pad your bench so as not to scratch the units.
3. Use the razor knife or chisel to carefully break the tabs on the old lens that protrude on the back side of the housing. If you do this carefully, the lens can be saved and reused. If you break them off harshly, there won't be enough left to hold the lens in place the next time around.
4. With the old lens off, use the Semi-Chrome to clean and polish the housing as best you can both front, and back. This is also a good time to clean the contact points on the bulb holders.
5. Do a test fit of your new lens. Be careful not to break any of the plastic tabs on the new lens. Look at the lenses side by side when you get them, I had to send one pair back because they wre two different in color for my liking.
6. Apply masking tape to the rim of the housing and to the face of the lens. Place the tape so that there is only a small gap where the adhesive sealer can go. I haven't seen this step posted by others, but after doing several lenses I found that this saved me a lot of time cleaning up the units at the end.
7. Run a bead of the adhesive sealer around the inner lip of the housing. Do this at the base of the lip where the lens will form a seal against the housing. You'll fill the gap around the edge of the lens later.
8. Carefully place the lens into the housing making sure it is fully seated.
9. Place the spring clamps around the edges of the unit, making sure the lens is down tight and wipe off any excess sealer.
10. LEAVE IT ALONE FOR 24 HOURS.
11. With a few of the clamps still in place, use the soldering iron to melt down the protruding tabs on the back side of the housing. Work slowly and carefully. You don't want to melt off the plastic of the new tabs.
12. When the plastic has cooled, removed the remaining clamps. You're almost home!
13. With the masking tape still in place, run a very small bead of sealer around the edge of the lens to fill any remaining gaps along the edge of the lens. Smooth it into the gap with a wet finger.
14. Use rubbing alcohol to remove any residue from the lens or housing. Catch it while it is still fresh or you will have a harder time cleaning it off.
15. Re-attach the wiring and check bulbs before securing the units back in the car.
Anyone else have any tips?
Good luck!
Joe
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1967 911S Coupe
1991 944S2 Coupe
Past projects:
1967 912 Coupe
1969 911T Coupe
1985.5 944 SR Coupe
I placed the new lens in the oven at about 200 degrees for a few minutes. I then test fit them into the housings with the clamps to cool. I did this several times and it seemed to allow the new lens to shape itself for a better fit without stressing the lens.Anyone else have any tips?
I haven't done this before, but for me it looks like the lens is riveted by a special rivet through the two holes in the lens where the fixing screw goes through.
Don't you have to drill out the rivet first?
Michael Moenstermann
Osnabrueck - Germany
Early 911S member #1052
'While accelerating the tears of emotion have to flow off horizontally to the ears.'
'Understeer is when you see the tree you are hitting, if you only hear the tree then it was oversteer'.
'You can't treat a car like a human being - a car needs love'. (all Walter Röhrl)
Yes drill out, the new lenses will each come with two new bushings and they are just held in place by the screws used to attach the unit to the body.
Early 911S member #166
I have no problem with the theory that all men are created equal.
But after that moment you are on your own and nobody owes you a damn thing.
Thanks! I like the idea of warming the new lens. I'll give that a try on the next one.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1967 911S Coupe
1991 944S2 Coupe
Past projects:
1967 912 Coupe
1969 911T Coupe
1985.5 944 SR Coupe
Warming the lens is the key - I went with the aftermarket lenses from Pelican and the fit SUCKED. Keeping the temp below, but near, the glass transition temp of the plastic is key (but not knowing what polymer the lens is, I used the previously mentioned temps with success). I cranked the air recirculating convection oven up to 210 and used this method:
1 -Put lens in oven attached to housing, 10 minutes.
2 - Pull the units out, hand massage in place until cool (wearing oven mits)
3 - Repeat until fit gets near acceptable
4 - Put in oven again; this time with drill bits ensuring alignment of the screw holes, and quick grips holding down the pesky areas. 10 mins. Make sure not to put too much pressure on the lens, as the quick grips can warp the lens with too much pressure.
5 - Remove and run lens/housing under water to set the lens (repeat if necessary)
6 - You will know you've arrived when the brass rivets align prefectly and there are no high spots on the lens edges.
Kenik
- 1969 911S
- 1965/66 911
- S Reg #760
- RGruppe #389