I took the Carrera 6 flywheel off the '65 to replace the pilot bearing. Do you guys use "Lock Tite" on the 6 flywheel bolts or just torque them without?
Thanks,
John
I took the Carrera 6 flywheel off the '65 to replace the pilot bearing. Do you guys use "Lock Tite" on the 6 flywheel bolts or just torque them without?
Thanks,
John
1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.
Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com
Registry #983
R Gruppe #741
Funny you should ask. Just a few weeks ago I put a set of new flywheel bolts in using Blue Loctite 242. Wayne Dempsey's engine rebuilding book recommends Red Locktite but I'm afraid of that stuff--I don't think disassembling those parts with a torch would be a good experience.
Wayne includes a warning that if you use significantly too much Loctite you might hydraulic lock the bolts and they'll bottom on a drop of Loctite rather than stretching correctly under the 100+ foot pounds. If that happens the bolt can fall out later.
I've put over 200 miles on the engine since the rebuild and it hasn't fallen apart yet!
Jim Alton
Torrance, CA
Early 911S Registry # 237
1965 Porsche 911 coupe
1958 Porsche 356A cabriolet
I've used red loctite, on several, with good results.
Al Kosmal
the X-faktory
Current projects; 69-911.5
76S rat bastard---off to Germany
1970 914-4...off to Wisconsin
73 911X Cafe Racer...........(off to S.F.....now racing in Germany)
66 912 ...off to France
71E 9111200979 ( gone to Paris..then to Corsica)
77S (off to NY)
Early S #1240
RGruppe #669
www.x-faktory.com
A drop of Red 'locktite' on clean oil free threads. Impact gun them off with no issues.
Neat fly wheel![]()
I do it all the time. It also doesn't take a lot of heat to make them loosen up.Originally Posted by Fritz A. Ficke
Tom
Early S Registry #235
rgruppe #111
I thought that these are single use, fine thread bolts that yield when tightened properly, making Loctite, or any kind of locking device, unnecessary.
Tom F.
Long Beach, CA
Tom F. Every thing you said is true, But having seen the damage that can happen when they do comes loose make the "insurance " from the Locktite look cheap. Some times "tricks" like this are the things that make engines survive the, over rev, clutch scatter, etc. Basicly no down side and alot of protection. FritzOriginally Posted by Tom F.
Thanks guys...this helps.
John
1959 356 Coupe, 1600 Super, sold
1960 356 Roaster, race car, SCCA, sold
1960 356 Roadster, show car, sold.
1962 356 Cab, show car, sold.
1965 911 #301111, Red Book Vol 1 "Cover Car," owned 54 years.
1967 911 #307347, bare-bones, some road wear, a little surface rust, and a few dents..., owned 14 years.
1970 914/6GT, (Sold - ran the last three Rennsports)owned 30 years.
Photography Site: JohnStraubImageWorks.com
Registry #983
R Gruppe #741
The fit of the screw threads in the crank is never tight enough to seal. Excess Loctite will squish out. This is a problem that doesn't exist. Unless you are using NPT threads on your flywheel bolts.Originally Posted by NeunElf
And you will feel the KAMAX screws stretch as you strive to obtain the required torque setting. It's a disconcerting feeling, when they go through the yield point-- it feels the same as a stud about to shear through-- very uncomfortable. But then you stop, put a witness mark on the screw, and you're done.
1966 911 #304065 Irischgruen