nothing like a solid day cleaning up some body work !!! there will not be a speck of rust on this if i have my way .![]()
nothing like a solid day cleaning up some body work !!! there will not be a speck of rust on this if i have my way .![]()
John Gausden
Auckland, New Zealand
(shipping carson,CA)
Early911nz.org
ST-Classic.com
ST-Classic Facebook
"Funding my obsession one nut at a time"
good work
I've done the same (not an easy job i know !)
your rear seat bases look clean , i've stopped the rust on mine, but they are pretty pitted !
Car is living outside at the moment as i monitor its waterproof-ness .... even with new seals, it's leaking a little bit in heavy Sydney rain just onto the LHS passenger front footwell area, but very small. So overall, very pleased !
How are your seats going John ?
Paul
1969 ex-South African RHD Tangerine 911T.(based: Sydney)
1970 ex-Southern Californian LHD Conda 911T(now based: Europe)
1955 Series 1 86" Land Rover (original Australian CKD … very slowly re-building)1987 W124 230e
(long term paid up member)
Nice work, John. Sure will look great once painted. Looks like you have new floor pans?
Any ideas on what type of coating/paint you are going to use?
Best regards,
Brad
Brad Davis
RGruppe #691
Early 911S #1547
Nice and clean foundation. Can I ask what methods you are using to get the metal stripped to that condition?
hi paul , the reason the rear area looks so clean is that it's a complete regraft . i purchased a de-registered 74 targa with a clean rear end and grafted everything from the parcel tray to the rear floor. The seats are to one side at the moment as i have run out of room to get a sandblasting cab. in . i have purchased a shipping container to store one of the other cars and parts .should be back into those in the new year.
brad - yep new floor pans etc.... 60% of this car has new or replacement panels
Mark - long process , first i had the car partly sand blasted , then used a flapper disc on the angle grinder for the bulk , then go over every thing again with a twist wire brush on the angle grinder , then hand sand any "can't get to areas" and seal for now with paint grip. this body is still going for a hot dip at the end before being eched primed . there will be NO rust.
John Gausden
Auckland, New Zealand
(shipping carson,CA)
Early911nz.org
ST-Classic.com
ST-Classic Facebook
"Funding my obsession one nut at a time"
Have anyone ever heard of problems with dipping a chassis and then later on having paint adhesion problems in certain areas?
My hands are hurting thinking of all the hand labor there, ouch. I have a 66 912 that I have done the same treatment to however I am in Southern California with a local car so there was no metal work to do. I am about to spray Wurth SKS everywhere and cover the metal back up. It takes so much work to strip the inside of a car to this level. I have 2 more cars I need to strip like this, ugh.
for me it's like zen time , you just get into a routine and think on stuff plus the big bonus you get to know every inch of the car
John Gausden
Auckland, New Zealand
(shipping carson,CA)
Early911nz.org
ST-Classic.com
ST-Classic Facebook
"Funding my obsession one nut at a time"
Mark,
I have never dipped a chassis but have had all the panels dipped with great results, you just have to be mindfull of drying everything quickly and clean very well; I would have any reservations about doing a chassis and it is less harsh than blasting.
Eric
drying the car quickly is the key , once out and rinsed it's straight into a paint oven for 12 hours .
John Gausden
Auckland, New Zealand
(shipping carson,CA)
Early911nz.org
ST-Classic.com
ST-Classic Facebook
"Funding my obsession one nut at a time"
6 hours on the dash ...........i need a life![]()
John Gausden
Auckland, New Zealand
(shipping carson,CA)
Early911nz.org
ST-Classic.com
ST-Classic Facebook
"Funding my obsession one nut at a time"