Engine width LWB cars

Once winter comes, I'm contemplating dropping my engine/transmission to address a number of annoying leaks (drips really). Maybe I'll just decide that the smell of burning oil is tolerable, which it is. And maybe this is just asking for a world of headaches. While I think virtually all of these leaks can probably be done with the engine in the car, some things like the rockers (if they are indeed leaking) are just easier done with the engine out of the car.

I don't have an engine stand or an engine hoist, and would prefer not to purchase them. Not so much for the money, but because I am running out of place for things. So I was going to make a trolley out of 2x4 and 4x4 pieces with some wheels that could go under the engine/transmission. The idea is to lower my car on the 4 post lift with jacks under the rear body points, unbolt the engine and transmission mounts and then lift the car back up using the lift, leaving the engine on the cart and easy to move around my crowded garage. Resting on the cart should make it easier to move the engine back to clear the shift rod etc.

Anyone ever done this? Any drawings or pictures? I realize the cart will need to be narrow enough that the lower valve covers are easily accessible, and it's easy enough to remove the heat exchangers. I don't see any reason it should't work, except for whether the engine with its tin will clear the gap between the ramps of the lift. Yellow arrow in photo. Anybody know what this dimension is for a '73 MFI car?

I have an HVAC guy coming to give me a quote on a mini-split, so winter time in the garage (which is insulated R 20-R 30, doors R 6) will be practical.

cheers,
Ravi

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I had the same idea, but when I put the car on the lift (direct lift 9000) it was obvious that the engine was too wide. It was pretty easy to just use a floor jack to lower the engine to a furniture dolly.

Good to know. I have Direct Lift Pro Park 8, and I suspect the ramp widths are the same on all their models. Eyeballing it, it looks like it might work, but eyeballs being what they are at my age.....

I do have a motorcycle stand/jack from the days of building bikes (which is why my wife will kill me if I buy more "stuff").

The main issue is I want to keep my macan in the garage in the winter, so I really need to be able to put the car on the lift. Without the motor I guess it would be easy enough to push onto the lift by putting the wheels back on.

The distance between my ramps is 35 1/4. The heat exchangers look to be around 35” wide. I think the big issue is that there just won’t be enough room to reach anything. Maybe if you had everything ready to go but the engine mounts it might work. Of course then you’d have to push the car on the lift WITH the engine in it!

That was the idea. Remove everything, including heat exchangers if needed. Lower the lift so engine and tranny are supported by the built up cradle. Just a bit higher than the bottom most safety lock on the lift (about 24” above the ground). Undo the transmission bolts and engine mount bolts. Raise a bit, pull assembly back to get the shift lever out of the tunnel and then raise the car completely up towards its parking spot in the sky.

I have the jack attachment for the direct lift(http://www.directlift.ca/pro-jack-3500.htm) so I can leave the rear wheels off during all this.

So far I’m looking at the valve covers, intermediate shaft gasket and the 3 seals for the oil cooler to the engine. Little dribbles here and there, especially the cooler. There is a leak on the left side heat exchanger with oil on the #3 cylinder fins. I think that could be the rocker closest to the driver, but could just be the valve cover too. Will know more when I pull the valve cover to look.

All this can be done with the engine in the car, just maybe easier for the rockers out of the car to pull and install RSR seals and turboKraft locks. But hey I am flexible and fingers work well, so doing things in place has advantages too.

Turns out there are some threads on this at the Pelican. Two approaches. One to drive the car as far back on the lift as possible and then drop it off the back (hard with the transmission attached) and one to widen the ramps. On my Direct lift you can actually move the left ramp (the one without the hydraulics) another 3 inches over. So that makes a between ramp drop on to a atv lift or dolly quite feasible.

Anyways, not sure I need to do any of this, but was interesting to read about.

Here is a photo I pulled from my archives showing how it can be done. Engine was lifted using a hydraulic lift table.

Definitely jumped the gun on this. Took the valve cover gaskets off and all rocker shaft mounts were bone dry. Just some seepage from the gaskets. Robert used the Wrightwood gaskets and I’ve put the same back on. Top valve covers are certainly a bit warped. Bottoms are the later turbo ones powder coated to look original. May do the same with the top ones. Or get the orange gaskets. Anyways, nothing serious.

There is some oil from the left side of the MFI pump that follows the fan shroud and falls on the left rear engine tin piece. I think this is what I need to chase.