Restoring original paint on my "new" survivor '67 911S

Hello S Registry,

I just bought a black '67 911S (a true "S" by the engine and body numbers) from the original owner's widow and son! I have the owners manual and service booklet verifying the original owner. This car has very low miles and still has most of the original paint on the car. The interior is close to mint, and the car is rust free, being in Southern California since new. I'm very excited about my new project!

The paint is cloudy, but is not damaged or crazed and looks like it will shine up nicely with the right kind of wax product. Any experience here with bringing back luster to original Porsche lacquer paint? What products should I buy and what methods should I use? I will try to post pics of it later. There is one part on the left door and rear quarter that was repainted at some point and doesn't quite match the patina of the older paint. Is there a way to paint a door and "age" it to match the rest of the car?

I have some mechanical questions also...please see the technical forum. Thank you for any help.

If the paint is original I'd take it to a Pro paint shop to detail it and have them assess the need for the door repaint. I attempt a lot of stuff on my own but, not that. Now the non original 75 black paint job over the original silver of my 70? Where's my sandpaper!!??

Welcome aboard. I'm jealous.

To avoid being further shunned, you must post pictures. :)

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Originally Posted by 70SATMan

If the paint is original I'd take it to a Pro paint shop to detail it and have them assess the need for the door repaint. I attempt a lot of stuff on my own but, not that.

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I absolutely agree.

Post the area in which you live and you'll likely get a ton of recommendations as to where to take it. Its gonna take more than wax I assure you. I'm not sure if Porsche was still using lacquer paint, someone else would know better.

ditto the professional detail shop. with 600 to 4000 grit sandpaper they might be able to color sand the car and get some life back into the paint and they have access to all the best polishes, glazes waxes and buffing equipment. repainting this car should be your last resort. patina is a beautiful thing and it is only orgininal once. pls. post pictures, welcome and let us know how it goes.

If you can work a polishing wheel, you can bring back the color. But what to do will depend on how bad it has gotten. Porsche used a single stage acrylic Laquer Glassurit paint back then if I recall correctly (I remeber the Parriot). It was one of the frist attempts torwards the Urethanes we have today. Not as brittle as laquer, but the color did fade rather quickly. Now if your timid on using a power buffer, I suggest you get a bottle of "Perfect-it II" Fine cut rubbing compound made by 3M. I get mine at an auto paint jobber, but they may have it at a Pep boys or the like. But try to find this particular product. Using a soft towel (those shop towels in a box works well) put a small amount on the cloth and rub a small section with medium pressure in one direction. As the compound dissapates, press harder until all the compound is gone. Wipe with a new clean towel and examine the surface. You should see some shiney paint, and perhaps gradual clouding as it moves away from the center. Do it again, and examine. After the second or thrid time, you should be getting a good finish. Depending how fast this process is moving along for you, you can do the whole car this way. A power buffer is faster and you should use different product, the compound I suggested would cut too fast if you don't do this reguarly. If you get no difference, wet sanding would be the only other hope. But if you continue with the compound, it is removing layers, albeit very slowly which may be a good thing if you know what I mean. Let me know if I can answer any other questions, good luck Allan

Post some pictures of your car. Close up preferably. I may be able to give you some good tips. Congrats! Freddie

From experience a power wheel with polish on black paint will show sweral marks after it is finished. I own a black car and is more sensitive to polishing styles than other colors. You are going to need a professional to get the paint looking the way it can. It is worth it. I would start with a detailer that does not use a wheel on cars. When I got my 911S painted; I waited 6 or 7 months to dry and then used a detailer and paid $100 for the first polish and wax after that I do the paint care. He started off with clay baring the car; which I would only leave to the professionals then he Glazed the car and finally a wax --looked great. He was recommeded by my body shop. I can give you his number if you want. Then there is another approach-- The professional color sander-I knew someone that got a badly orange peeled paint job that was years old and made it look brand new wet, deep shine. It was expensive --around $ 1200. The first thing to do is get several estimates on what is best for your car. Go slow on this-- It is only orignal once and orignal paint cars that look good are held in the highest regard. Good luck Chris Early S reg.#205 ;R- gruppe #144

With all due respect to raspy2point2 an integral part of any paint job is compounding with a power buffer, not to mention wet sanding prior, no matter the color. Swril marks are a given after compounding (even though they are less noticiable in other colors) since in essence you are sanding down the paint flat with the compound. What you need to do is to use a black ebony liquid to buff the paint again to remove the swril marks. And finally use a good wax and polishing product like Zaino Bros. to remove any hint of fine scratches etc. Clay baring is used mainly to remove surface contaminents like dirt and micro deposits of debris that had lodged into the paint before waxing and not hard to do at all. Survivor67S' situation is a bit different than your new paint job, the top surface of his paint has dried out and lost pigment. As a result, he has to remove the top layers of paint in hopes of restoring the finish. A car detailer without a power buffer has no hope. Safest way of doing this is hand compounding. But if the paint failure is too deep or extensive, a power buffer would be the next step, followed by wet sanding which will need to be power wheeled afterwards anyway.

This sounds more complex than just giving her a rubdown with Meguire's Cleaner Wax. :D What detailer would you recommend in the LA area? I live near the Fontana speedway. Here are some bad pictures, will take better quality pictures when I get the time.

Any idea what kind of wheels these are? The owner bought these soon after purchase because he felt the original 4.5s were too narrow. The son claims they were expensive and true magnesium wheels. I have the original Fuchs too, so I will probably be selling these magnesium ones.

Do not sell those! That is such a bitchin look. If you must sell, consider selling those ugly, nasty good for nothing things to me! I'll even pay the shipping;) :D