Let the offseason make over begin! the 15x10 Minilites came in..

Hi Guys-
I have been contemplating making my car into a 911 ST tribute race car for about 6 years. I finally pulled the trigger and ordered all the parts.

I ordered the steel ST rear flares from Dave at TRE. Those should be here in a couple weeks. I cant wait to see them. New fiberglass ST front fenders, and "S" bumper are on the way. The 15x10 Minilites came in (Superlite GTR's) I need to paint them or powdercoat them silver (it was Superlights last set of two so I had to take the gunmetal color). Anyone have good results with a rattle can color?
I ordered two new Euro chrome H4 headlight assemblies OEM for $180 each which I think is a steal. Also new horn grills and euro turn signal lenses up front.
I have a majority of the stuff to fab a center fill (Blau 100mm cap and short neck, collector) I really need to find a longer neck to bring it up to the hood level (Any hints?)- I will be welding this on to my Fuel Safe cell.
Once I get all the bodywork done, a full paint job is in order. I'm keeping the same color with some appropriate ST vintage graphics.

These mods will put me up in A production with the Corvettes & Mustangs which will be fun.

I'll post some pic's of the progress- This will be a full race ST- I can't wait to feel the grip difference with the wider wheels and tires.
I'll post pics of the progress when things start happening.

Nice !

Don't paint the holes on the superlites... The clearance between them and the wheel studs is *minimal* as it is!

Good to know. Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by C.Plavan

Hi Guys-
I have been contemplating making my car into a 911 ST tribute race car for about 6 years. I finally pulled the trigger and ordered all the parts.

I have a majority of the stuff to fab a center fill (Blau 100mm cap and short neck, collector) I really need to find a longer neck to bring it up to the hood level (Any hints?)- I will be welding this on to my Fuel Safe cell.

I'll post some pic's of the progress- This will be a full race ST- I can't wait to feel the grip difference with the wider wheels and tires.
I'll post pics of the progress when things start happening.

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You don't need a longer neck. Use 4" dia. exhaust tubing and then cut & fit just the top of the short Blau neck piece you already have on top to match the angle of the hood. See photo of the way I did mine....it works perfectly.

JZG

Thanks John. That is exactly the kind of idea I was looking for. Great work.

I just ordered 4" stainless steel tubing from Jegs.

Chad,

I know where to get from and rear fenders in real carbon..... ;) very light.... :eek:

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Originally Posted by ErVikingo

Chad,

I know where to get from and rear fenders in real carbon..... ;) very light.... :eek:

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I know. I actually had a pair of carbon rear ST flares. After much debate, I decided to go steel and fork over the $. You can never trust the epoxy on the fiberglass (or Carbon) If it starts to delaminate, crack, or bubble I would need a new paintjob. Plus steel is more sexy for this vintage race car :)

Not to mention the last corner balance had me at 1828 pounds with 1 gallon of fuel and 14qts of oil :)

I will be upgrading to 31mm rear hollow torsion bars (From 30mm solid) to lessen the effect of the heavier wheels.
Gotta cut weight where you can.

I don't mean to belabor the obvious, but if your gascap has the rib already attached, make sure you mark the stub of you Blau short tube showing the postion of the rib, so that when you cut the short tube at an angle and locate it on your stainless tubing for welding, the rib is properly positioned front to rear with the cap fully locked in place, so that it is parallel to the long axis of the car.

If the rib is not installed yet, ....well, then it really doesn't matter where the lugs of the short tube wind up.

Please don't ask why I find it necessary to emphasize this point.

JZG

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Z Goriup

I don't mean to belabor the obvious, but if your gascap has the rib already attached, make sure you mark the stub of you Blau short tube showing the postion of the rib, so that when you cut the short tube at an angle and locate it on your stainless tubing for welding, the rib is properly positioned front to rear with the cap fully locked in place, so that it is parallel to the long axis of the car.

If the rib is not installed yet, ....well, then it really doesn't matter where the lugs of the short tube wind up.

Please don't ask why I find it necessary to emphasize this point.

JZG

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Yep- Good call. I was just going to add the rib last after everything is fab'd up.