does anyone have a schematic for the switch for cibies?
i have the following terminals 1,2,3 and k. (and the light bulb)
does anyone know which wire goes where?
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does anyone have a schematic for the switch for cibies?
i have the following terminals 1,2,3 and k. (and the light bulb)
does anyone know which wire goes where?
I already have ttg fog lights going to a toggle switch and then in sequence to the low beams..
id like to have the hood lights going on this switch go either directly to the switch only, or go to this switch and the high beams on the headlights (in sequence)..
not sure if teh headlight switch can handle both fog and driving lights..
(please also note a relay is also being used on cibies and ttg)
Harry, there is a schematic of the fog lights that I think you could use - see link below. Follow the "USA" connections to tie into the headlight switch. Doing this only permits the use of fog lights with the low beams on. I think you could change it to the high beams by following the headlight wiring diagram and connecting to the high beam side only. You might want to fit alligator clips so that you can test before committing.
http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...1&d=1255944099
Olin
thanks!
anyone know if this would fry the headlight switch?
I would suggest that the headlights and driving lights be on separate relays, then it would have a small amount of amps and not overload the switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffman912
sorry, dont think i was clear.
the ttgs have a separate relay and a fog light switch. they are wired with the headlight switch so that they can only come on when the low beams are on and the fog light switch is on.
i was wondering if i can do the same with the cibies.. have a separate switch and relay fo rthe cibies, but have them so they are only able to come on when the high beams are on, and the cibies switch is on.
if i have it that way, will that be overload for the headlight switch?
or should i just have the cibies completely independant and not tied to both the cibies switch and teh headlight high beams?
After looking at the fuse layout, the high beams are on fuses 1 and 2. So the ROW cars are using this circuit to connect pin 85 on the relay. Pin 85 goes to ground on the US cars.
I would suggest wiring pin 58 from the switch to fuse 1 or 2 instead of fuse 4 as indicated. Fuse 4 is noted t be the dimmer fuse - which I am understanding to be low beams. This would require the high beams to be on for the driving lights to function.
Olin
Harry, yes you can have all on a separate switch with independent relays and still operate based on headlight switch function. You should treat the referenced circuit as a guide for the Cibies. Leave the TTG as is, and repeat the process as I outlined earlier with the high beam connections on terminal 1 or 2 on fuse panel 2. Needed extras to be separate from TTG: relay, switch and wiring.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffman912
The only extra power generated on the headlight fuse is that which is required to pull in the contacts on the relay, so I am not concerned of overloading the switch - which is still protected by the fuse. The issue with too many watts with the headlights kills the turn signal/hi-lo beam switch. This has been corrected by many by installing a relay into the headlights circuit since they did not have one initially. Make sure you do this upgrade as well if not already.
If your TTG lights are using fuse 2 on fuse panel #1 for power (connects to terminal 30 on relay), then you may overload that terminal with the cibies if you choose to use them at the same time. Guessing you do not have power windows, you could carry the load by using fuse 3 on panel 1 to drive the Cibies. A heavy gauge (20 amp rating) red wire from the battery will need to be connected to the other side of terminal 3. The red wire is what powers the lights and should be rated for double the amps you will draw with the lights. 100w @ 12v = 8.33 A. I would use a 15 A rated wire or larger if this is not nominal.
Olin