'73S Oil Cooling Coil

Chris,

I'd try Porsche repair shops… then Porsche body shops...

In my experience sometimes these are good options when the new and used parts places can't help…

Another alternative is (haven forbid) using later (more easily obtainable) oil lines…

From the time 911's started using external oil coolers all the way to 1974 they put something different or changed locations of something almost every year…Cooler types, thermostat location, and how the lines run to each…

I think, like so many others things, they were sneaking up on the different problems: location for convince and heat... and finally got it right in 74' for the G series cars. Part of the proof is they didn't change them again until, man I don't even know, I think all the way through 89'.
The later oil lines have the thermostat just behind the rear torsion bar tube, still accessible but well away from the engine compartment and exhaust.

My car did not come with a cooler …

My solution was/is NOT concourse correct but it gave me the most efficient answer at the time…and guess what? … it's still there!

About 14 years ago I had the good fortune of having someone (Tony Gerase of TLG - Macro's dad) find and install a 72' small radiator type oil cooler (I felt more efficient then the trombone) along with late 74' type lines on my 73'S … no muss, no fuss… and the rest is history...

Just another way to solve the problem...

Good luck,
And Cheers

Chuck,

Thanks. Figured there are a number of alternatives, but since my car came with it as an option from the factory, I might try to find a real one. Do you think my current hose-patch set up is ok as a temporary solution?

I'll keep looking. I posted over on PP as Larry suggested, and I'll probably give EASY a call as well. Wonder if they're in today?

BTW - anyone (Tom?) know a part # for it? Tom mentioned a box, so where did you get yours? Can you still order these from Porsche? Hate to ask, but how much? Those Elephant lines are not cheap and I'm not racing the car.

Chris, you might want to rethink the elephant lines/rs cooler with no fan set-up. Evren had them installed on his '71 911E, and they have proven out well in the hot Turkish climate. I thought the set-up to be "way cool" when I looked at it, and the finned lines DO add cooling. Can't say the same for all the cooling gadgets out there...

Paul,

Yeah, they look neat and given the racing application, I'm assuming they cool quite well. But, they're like $800!! I live in a fairly cool area, and am not planning on tracking the car. If I can find original for less than $800 (a lot less), I'll go that direction. I'm going to live with it for a while and see how it goes. The thermostat regulator and coil are working, and since this was an option on the 2.4s, I'm assuming its not critical to basic operations. That said, I'm still looking for the factory part.

Tom - is the factory price more than Elephant? Does anyone have a factory part # for the upper and lower tubing?

PWD:

That is what I did. Got a 24 tube cooler, which was highly recommended over the trombone, the finned and the radiator variety, even with a fan. Then my wrench found some original tubes, and I am off and running. Again, not original, but Elephant had an article on their website about the temperature of the oil, viscosity of the oil, and engine life. Kind of makes you want to keep that oil REAL cool. Here is the link to the article.

http://www.elephantracing.com/techto...emperature.htm

I thought that this was interesting reading. Gave me second thoughts to all of those guys that said that I didn't need an external cooler in Chicago.

larry

Chris,

My 73' parts book says:

911.207.043.01 - Oil Feed Line
911.207.044.01 - Return Tube

Looks like the lower one is the Feed Line...

If you need any other numbers, I have a book mark on that page ... ;)

Hope this helps...

Cheers,

CHuck,

Perfect! You da man!

I had a crushed oil line and fixed it by going to Home Depot and getting some copper pipe and sleeves. I cut out the damaged section and soldered in the new copper pipe. I had the repaired pipe pressure tested at a radiator shop and for extra protection used JB weld on the connections.
This fix cost $5 and seems to work so far.
This is just a suggestion but I'm not a professional so take it with a grain of salt.

Philip,

I may get to that point. OE is impossible to find so far. The Elephant Racing ones are $800 ( and I ain't racing). Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, this 'issue' is falling lower on the priority list to others at the moment.

Quote:

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Originally posted by philip guiral
I had a crushed oil line and fixed it by going to Home Depot and getting some copper pipe and sleeves. I cut out the damaged section and soldered in the new copper pipe. I had the repaired pipe pressure tested at a radiator shop and for extra protection used JB weld on the connections.
This fix cost $5 and seems to work so far.
This is just a suggestion but I'm not a professional so take it with a grain of salt.

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I may be mistaken, but the issue with this type of repair has to do with the flexing, work hardening and cracking of the brazed joint that occurs over time. Keep an eye on the line.