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What you need to do is figure out what you want your total advance to be. Then you need to figure - based on your motor's internals - HOW you want your advance to come in.
Do you want a LOOOOOONG curve? Or, do you want a short curve? At what RPM do you want X degrees of timing. Solve for X. ;)
I found that I liked a short curve distributor for my quick reving 2.4S hotrod motor, but my 3.0-liter, twin plug MFI motor liked a standard advance curve, although it performed better when I led it a bit.
Sufficiently confused yet? I'd say call Steve at Rennsport Systems and see if he can recurve your distributor
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Ignition curve
What is the progression circuit like on the 40IDA.
On some Webers such as the 45DCOE 152 there are only three progression holes in the throttle plate and they always give a flat spot at 2500rpm unless you run the carbs rich at idle which then gives lumpy tick over.
The only way we have ever cured this problem is to make a jig and drill at least one and preferable two extra progression holes of around 0.8mm diameter.
It must be worth a look at the idle jets and the emulsion tubes.
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Marco is correct, you NEED to contact Steve at Rennsport. He will have the correct answers for you.
As for the SUN unit, correct...it is a measuring tool that will show the advance at all RPMs so a person can adjust it or check it as the case may be.
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I think more carbs than distributor.
The curves set up on an isolated distributor are only best guesses based on various engine factors. That may arrive at an advance curve that's close enough. However, especially on a modified engine, the best way to optimize the advance curve is with the vehicle on a road dyno.
Curing hesitation is a function of getting the correct A/F ratio into the cylinders at the correct time.
Sherwood
