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Btdt... Brute force did not help, it just would not open. Finally I removed some gauges, reached through the holes with a small ratched and loosened the two bolts for the drivers side hinge. After the that the hood could be repositioned and popped open.
It's a MY69 so John can't get the gauges out with out opening the bonnet.Quote:
Originally Posted by PStey
I thought you could drill a hole and use some wire. True?
Isn't there an access plug between the lower apron and the front edge of the trunk, through which one can move the hood release catch?
Thanks for all the ideas guys. In the end, jacking the front left corner seemed to free the pin enough that a good hard yank popped it!
Do any of you guys have a routine to setting these lock sets up to avoid this pitfall?
Cheers
John
John,
I set mine up the second time (after getting it open) without the gas tank in, don't know if that's an option for you at this stage.
It allowed me to push on the plunger from the inside.
Tank is in and rigged up...
What I can definitely do is to pre-attach a cord to the pin which should let me release any side-load if it gets hung up again.
John when I fitted a new cable I used the hole in the lock with a drift slotted in there to hold the lock mechanism in place and then tensioned the cable. I am sure you know this however and maybe I am missing your point.
Hi Merv. My problem wasn't with the cable, it was a misalignment of the pin into the striker hole which got it hung up due to the side load on the pin... very frustrating!Quote:
Originally Posted by Merv
What I've done in the past is snug down the lid plunger/upper latch to just less than finger tight, then close the lid and center the plunger in the hole. You can then hold the upper latch mechanism, lift the hood and tighten the bolts. Double check the centering before closing.