Printable View
I'm going to install new SS lines in the tunnel. They have two layers of shrink rap, one red for high pressure and one green and black for return. The top picture shows a company that sells 4 foot lengths.
I just did all the wheel bearings and added longer studs for 4 more custom 10 hole steel wheels. (Picture 2) The steel wheels require 7 mm more thread than my Fuchs.
Chris, nice work, love it..
br
stay safe&healthy
haul
I thought I would update on the 2.4 POLO oil temps in my car. I have misguided folks for the last 8 years. Not intentionally. I've had a 120C temp sensor on this engine all these years. It should have been a 150C sensor. The 120C has been reading 25 to 30F too hot. I switched to a 150C sensor and the oil temp at the tank with a turkey thermometer, inferred on the temp sensor and the dash gauge all say the same. Some 25 to 30F cooler! All this sweating over 230 to 240F for 8 to 9 years was all for nothing. Currently with the duel trombones and a refreshed inline SC thermostat I see a constant 180 to 190F cruising around Denver with 85 to 95F and 15 to 35% humidity. Well see what happens when pounding 12000 foot Colorado passes. I'm guessing 210 to 220F not 240F plus.
I don't track but I think these coolers would work fine for that.
These ball joints come in two different configurations. One for 65 to 68 struts and one for the later wedge pin struts to use with our early a-arms. They allow for a fair amount of negative camber. So I can use the struts in the picture without changing out the whole front suspension.
I think the early front suspension will be more desirable now that these can offer easy adjustment of front negative camber. And the option to use the later struts with 3.5 inch brake caliper mounts for more brake options like the Boxster calipers I intend to use.
Both Rebel and Elephant sell them.
Now I would like to figure out if I can make the early a-arms work with the aluminum crossbar. Or modify the later a-arms to work with these ball joints. I'm interested in the aluminum crossbar more for the easy access to the fuel lines at the gas tank than any weight savings.
By the way, I use Rebel suspension bushings. They allow me to drop the crossbar in 15 minutes, and have the steering rack off in another 15. Unbolt the rack to the crossbar, pull the t bars out, unbolt the rear crossbar, loosen the front a-arm mounts enough for the bar to slide under the brake master cylinder and it's off. It makes installing turbo tie rods a snap.
https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-...89-911-912-930
Boxster front brakes. I'm running the same cryo'ed 20mm wide Zimmerman rotors I used with the Alfa Brembo's. They show zero wear after 12,000 miles. You can run your fingernail over the outside edge and it's smooth. I'm not using the 24mm Carrera rotors as the car is light and I don't want the extra weight of the 24's. I'm adding 1mm Hard Brake titanium plates on each side to take up half of the 4mm thinner rotors.
The struts are 69-71 E/S Koni with the spindles raised 19mm. Spacers at the steering rack will be added along with longer Turbo tie rods.
https://hardbrakes.com/index.php?mai...30c7f4f4742527
Installed the new rear calipers. The rear brakes went from 35 mm to 42 mm pistons and about 25% bigger pads.
The ball joints are about 2 mm wider and need hand fitting then paint. This allows you to use a LWB strut with a SWB a-arm. They also make these to connect with a SWB strut. You can dial in 2 degrees negative camber if that's your desire.
15 inch steels clear the Boxster Brembo’s. 16 inch Fuchs have plenty of room.
This is one build i would be wanting to drive.... just fantastic work....
I did a Vail to Steamboat to Vail lunch run Friday with this group. Kind of a David and Goliath thing. 80% plus were very tight mountain roads. As long as the roads were tight I was able to stay with them. When the roads opened up they went into light speed. When the roads got tight again I could pull them back. 80 to 120mph back to 40mph in the tightest corners 100's of times. About a 100 miles each way. Never saw a Police car. It was a good time.
Bet that was fun. The ONLY car I’d want in that group is that Bahama Yellow VW!
And a fun to drive VW at that.
450 mile weekend and here is the underside. Not one drop of oil. Just a little 3 minute wipe down of dust on the forward facing engine parts.
I use these then a aluminum washer, then a nylock nut on every 6 and 8 mm stud. Oil leaks are NOT allowed. This engine has 15,000 miles on it.
Next project for both my and Doug's dual oil cooler POLO cars.
This Mocal thermostat opens all the way at 200F not like the engine and SC ones that opens at 180-190F. Mocal makes a 180 and a 200F thermostat. That way the car only operates on the passenger side cooler past 180ish, and then both coolers fully after 200F.
Green - 180-200F
Red --- 200F plus fully open
The thermostat starts to open and close around 200F progressively as are the engine and SC thermostat. The point is it's doing it's thing 20F warmer.
The last picture added 1/11/21
I got my parts from BAT. Waiting on the threaded pieces that get welded to the tubes from Elephant Racing. I think I'll have the tubes replated in clear (silver).
Yesterday I picked up and had mounted my 10 hole 6X15 steels with 205/60/15 tires. I'm not sure how much I'll use them as they are heavier than the 6X16 Fuchs. I'll probably show the car sometimes with these as they give the car a little bit of the vintage racer look.
I also have an extra set of red Firestone letters I might add to the sidewalls.
...sometimes in winter is is a better choice to use the heavy boots..:)
but
is there still space for the steelies with the calipers?
br
stay safe&healthy
haul
haul,
In the winter the car is on jack stands, wheels off to take the weight off the suspension.
I spent the better part of a day with a compressor and grinder getting the welds smooth with about 3 to 4 mm caliper clearance.
Those wheels are pretty cool Chris. Love to see pics on the car!
Here you go. The Sun's angle didn't pick up the wheels very well. I'll reshoot later. I just rolled it out of the garage. After a little road time I’m guessing it will settle a little. These tires are about a 1/2 inch taller than my 195/55/16’s. I have 5 mm spacers to clear the front Brembo’s. I think I’ll take them off for the rears.
We are leaving the soft lines off. Thus a smaller and cleaner install. The 200F thermostat and duel female an12 parts are 210 mm (8 1/4 inches) long. The weld on end pieces have gone from 30 mm by 1.5 to the an12 weld on parts so we can use the duel female an12 parts. We will make custom support brackets and a small tray to catch any seeping oil if there is any.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Pomares
I'd love to know who is reading this thread. It gets about 500 views a week. If I add something new it's over a 1000, but it's rare anyone posts.
Well, I’m reading this, as I expect you’d have figured. I like the look on the steelies, and those tires. How are they settling in?
I'm following it too, Chris. The amount and quality of the detail work you exert is what keeps me interested. That, and I have an idle 2.2 Polo waiting for an application.
I'm a frequent visitor as well. Mostly as an exercise in controlling my envy.
Thanks guys. Someone please build the first 914 POLO or I'm gonna have to. It would be an awesome application. Doug's 912 POLO should come out of Jon the Metal Surgeon's shop soon. That's an aluminum hood, splitter, and steel bumper. Jon did a bumper after this one vented on both sides. The car will be Ultra Blau. I've never seen one in the flesh. Only a couple of pictures. Anyone seen one or have pictures. I think it's a 68-69 color but I could be wrong.
I follow all 3 of your posts whenever I find them. Thanks for leaving me a message.
[QUOTE=Bullethead;1076788]I'm following it too, Chris. The amount and quality of the detail work you exert is what keeps me interested. That, and I have an idle 2.2 Polo waiting for an application.[/QUOT
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-Porsch...53.m1438.l2649
Don't think I've ever seen that treatment for the oil cooler lines.. Just WOW!!
I watch this.. I'm building a 1968 Targa, all stock ..... but like to see works like these and work by the metal surgeon to stoke me...
would like to see more of the surgeons work..
Very nice and interesting ...please keep posting!
I did a much simpler piece to push air to the top of the oil cooler on my car and it helped some. If you look at the path through the bumper area for fog lights, though the grill, and now through the bumper, it seems under speed the air flow misses the top 3rd of the oil cooler. This is designed to force air strait through the passenger side battery box, up top, and around to the outside. This will flow air to the whole oil cooler. How much it will help is a mystery at this point. We'll see when the car is on the road.
I don't think we'll need the fan as this car will have duel Carrera coolers. Just in case, we created a place to mount an inline fan with a deflector to spread the air flow. The car will get a 3rd thermostat between the front oil coolers to try and keep the oil temp at about 200F on cooler days.
Buy the way, this is what the whole car looked like after the paint was removed. All work is about personalizing the car. Not rust repair. I found it in Rolling Hills, Ca. about 5 miles from were I lived in Malaga Cove, PV as a kid in Jr and High School. It's a 50K car in miles and 50K to buy it 2 years ago. Ultra Blau. Here are a couple pictures of a car living down under. I've never seen one in the flesh as the original owner painted it this color.
I was on the phone with Dean and he mentioned a project he is involved with. It's a company out of Culver City. They are building 12 912's that are kind of like a 912 Singer. My understanding is they are using Dean's short or long block as a base for the engine. Dean is under the impression they are developing a 4 valve head for the engine. If that comes to fruition I might see if I can get a set for my engine. It also has some kind of 6 speed transmission, carbon fiber wheels, and who knows what else. Dean believes the first 2 have been sold for $750K. I hope so. If that's the case, I'm glad I built the first one. Maybe not to this level but a heck of a nice car for sure.
Some upgrades coming in 2021.
As the car is SWB the rear KW coilovers will look like the rears only picture. Mine will be 2 way not 3 way adjustable. No cylinders and lines. The spring plate replacements (Rebel SWB RSR type) will be black and gold. I'm not sure which front suspension I'll go with. One is Rebel and one Elephant. Has anyone used either?
This is just tacked together at the moment. A custom bracket integrated with a small drip tray is in the works. This is on Doug's 69 912 POLO. A second one will be built for my car. As mentioned before the car will operate mostly on the passenger side front oil cooler tell 200F then open up to the drivers side cooler.
Currently on my car with a second front cooler I can't get the oil over 185 to 190F no matter how hard I drive even on a 100 degree day. Crazy as it sounds, I'm trying to up the oil temp by 10 to 20 degrees to around 200 to 210F.
I'm working on getting this Golden Green 911E Targa done for Doug's (nvr2mny) summer driving season. Then it's on to his 2.7 912 POLO car and updates on mine for the summer driving season.
I wonder who turned page 100,000. I'm glad to see others find the car interesting. I certainly find many of the other cars on this site interesting myself.
While I'm finishing the Green Targa, metal work is progressing on the 69 POLO car. The tubing will go from yellow to clear Zinc. The Mocal thermostat is their high temp model. They have a 180 degree one then this 200 degree model. It will keep most of the oil flowing to the passenger side cooler tell 200 degrees, then open and run oil through both coolers. I like the idea of cooler temperature oil opening up in sequence not all at once from the Carrera cooler through both front coolers. The smugglers box has forward facing pins that slide into the hinge bolt holes so you can slide it in and out then lock it down.
This RSR inspired me to develop the aluminum skin over the oil lines. I was able to follow this car while it was restored. Here's another nice one.
I hope to have Doug's 69 911E Targa done in time for his Spring and Summer driving season. After that it's back to what I really enjoy. Building and working on POLO cars. The beauty of these cars is, if the owner and I think it's correct, it's CORRECT. There is no arguing about spec as I get to create the spec. It's very liberating.
wow........
Out for a little fresh air. Hopefully out on the road soon.
My spare transmission is getting close. It has ALL new bearings and syncros. 3 new aluminum plates and a Wavetrac. B, GA, O, U, ZA and 7:31 R&P. The box has the PeterBuilt (Peter Graham, well known on the 912BBS.org) built axles. Bigger ball bearings and overall just stouter stuff for the SWB cars. I just got off the phone with Clint Smith of Rebel S Racing and my coil overs and RSR spring plates are on the way.
By the way that Loctite product took all the crud off the case in a Jiffy.
Oh and my machinist is at work making my SWB/LWB stub axles. I'm helping him design some fixtures so he can reproduce these and balance them. I'll take my old pair off my current transmission and have them balanced.
All this stuff goes on the car after the green car is done.
The only other thing I might do is add Elephants GT3 front suspension. It looks very interesting.
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...ystem-for-911/
New SWB axles using currently available parts.
https://www.912bbs.org/forum/resourc...axle-build.82/
My 935 type SWB spring plates came today. Everything yellow in this picture is getting replated as I have a batch of other parts that needed plating. The current plating is a bit thin. Coil overs are on the way.
Currently Rebel may be the sole source for the SWB version?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DsECvpkmbE
I did some license panel and fog light work on Doug's 911E today. I took the muffler off so I could get at the license panel on the engine side. First I added a heat shield and drilled holes for a fog light. Then I mounted the fog light. Then I realized to take the panel off you would have to cut the positive plug (in the housing) and the negative connection (on the mounting bolt) as they are too big to fit through the outlet hole. So I followed the harness back to the drivers side turn signal housing and made a cut where I could install male/female connections. I'll finish it tomorrow. Now you unplug the leads at the back of the fender well and pull the panel off without touching the fog light connections at the fog light. Now the lead wires are long enough to run them to the fender area before final fitting the license panel.
As I'm using the middle threaded hole on the spring plate I need to fill the upper and lower threaded holes. That and silicone around the piece that fills the torsion bar tube keep the tube dry. So I bought some allen wrench plugs, and used a little blue thread locker in the middle of the threads on the fixture. Next I used black silicone on the top threads then inserted them. Now I flipped the spring plate over and filled the holes with grease. And lastly I covered the holes with gorilla tape. Overkill? Probably.
I also replated all the yellow parts.
Christmas in April.
A new Albins profile ground 901 B first gear from Retro Sport. I'm off to the transmission builder so the transmission can get finished.
After 8 hours working on the 911E I spent a little time on this conversion project today.
This should be a cleaner aluminum case transmission to mag case transmission conversion on my 67 than what I did before. I'm going the longer axle route. I had a diff carrier lathed on the short side to flat. Then I drilled 6 holes in a piece of aluminum to the SWB and 914 bolt pattern. I taped four of the holes and left the holes where the roll pins used to be untapped. Once I get the 914 stub axles back from the machinist (he is cleaning up the welds where the roll pins used to be) I can insert the stub axles into the carrier with the aluminum guide plate and drill the holes and tap them.
I will remeasure for axle length. If all goes well the axle and stub axle should be bolt in.
I think the carrier will end up as a lamp base.
More on this can be found here. The stub axle came out perfect.
https://www.912bbs.org/forum/threads...33#post-442421
https://www.912bbs.org/forum/resourc...axle-build.82/
I've seen a couple video's about this guy. I like what he does with his early car.
https://petrolicious.com/films/maste...eid=41418963d4
I'm picking up my spare transmission today. B, GA, O, U, ZA, 7:31. New Wavetrac, ALL new bearings, new Albin's B gear, 7:31 R&P, altered 914 stub axles, all synchro's, several dogteeth, intermediate plate, internal bearing carrier. side plate, the transmission purchase, axles, throw out bearing, is right at 10K. I didn't realize I had spent that much, but everything is the best stuff you can buy for the 901/911 transmission. Peter Graham is building a pair of one inch longer axles for my car to go with the 914 stub axles. My existing transmission was built to the same spec other than the side plate a C 1st, V 4th, and ZD 5th. I should be all transmissioned up for as long as I own this car.
Here are a couple pictures of the transmission and a special Porsche transmission tool he uses. My transmission builder said he wouldn't rebuild a transmission without it. His transmissions come out perfect. This is the 3rd one he has done for me.
I have a pair of perfect unused stock length axles Peter Graham built for sale as I'm going with the 914 stub axles that require them to be one inch longer on this mag case transmission , 914 stub axle build. I paid $1050.00 and will sell for the same price. SOLD
https://www.912bbs.org/forum/resourc...axle-build.82/
Richard Clewett and I worked on my ECU tune. While tuning, he is in Manhattan Beach and the car and I are in Colorado. I added a idle air control unit he sent me a while ago. I got it somewhat dialed. He dialed it in even better. It helps at idle at 10 to 12,000 feet, or when starting the car stone cold in the 30's to 50's. I've been along I70 on Vail pass (about 10,000 feet) a time or two while Richard was at his shop tweeking the tune. Jetting and timing are a keyboard tap away even at 1000 miles distance. Very convenient.
Saturday 6/12 RMR/PCA will have it's first morning breakfast in about a year. It will be nice to see the folks and cars again.
I just got my one inch longer set of axles from Peter to use with my altered 914 flanges and mag case transmissions. I talked to Peter last night and he has a new SWB set of stock length axles in inventory. These axles are a work of art. Don't miss out.
wpgraham912@charter.net
The future suspension for this car. Stuff sitting on my shelf, except the bottom picture. Before this stuff goes on I'll have the front and rear weak areas gusseted. The yellow on the struts and all aluminum parts blue anodized will be changed to match the Elephant Racing front suspension grey. I wish the upper springs were black. Painting the axles black is easy. I try and avoid bright colors in the engine bay and under the car. I think it's more in keeping with the 50's, 60's time frame.
I painted the front strut bottoms black today. I bead blasted the red springs. They will be powder coated dark grey. All bright blue parts will be anodized black. I'm going for as much of a Boge look as I can get on a coil over. The yellow zinc spring plates will be powder coated grey like the springs and yellow zinc hardware will be redone clear (silver). All suspension pickup points will get reinforced with metal plates. The red axles will go black. The axles might go on soon. The rest after the driving season as the engine, trans, and all suspension parts will come off the car to strengthen the pickup points.
I enjoyed a nice 1/2 hour chat with Chuck Miller yesterday. We talked cars of course but then got off on California stories from when we were not just young at heart 40 to 50 years ago. He's a really great guy.
Right back'ta'ya Chris....
Lot'a miles, lot'a smiles..... :)
I replaced my 20 mm front rotors with some new 24 mm Carrera rotors. Yes they're a little heavier. Both sets were cryoed. The 20 mm set has 18,000 miles on them and still measure over 20 mm. Not bad for rotors that started life rated at 20 mm new. I have a new 23 mm master on the shelf. I'm not sure yet if it's going to go on the car.
The 20 mm rotors, some 3.0 Boge's and some 47 mm hubs are sold to a guy who is converting a 914 to a 5 bolt 911 front suspension.
The idea is get the performance but not stand out. I want the coilovers to hide in plain sight. The grey is actually a little darker than what you see in the pictures.
I drove about 100 miles today. My goal was to drive to the top on Mt. Evans (14000 feet) today. Everything was going well tell I got to the gate at 11000 feet. It now requires a reservation to drive to the top. I'll get my reservation and make another run in the next week or two. Even at 11000 feet I was running 13.5 to 14.2 AFR with a nice idle. I still have another setting to check at kPa 65.4 or about 13,000 feet. My goal is to have a nice idle and still run in the 13's for AFR. Anything North of 60 kPa or around 14,000 feet is for airplanes as there aren't any higher roads that I know of in North America or Canada. I wish I could put kPa 65.4 where kPa 50 is to make more check points between sea level and 14,000 feet. With this software, no can do.
The grey is close to the blue on the 935 spring plate part that attaches to the torsion tube. That part was not powder coated.
The car was just detailed and ceramic coated. Old paint gets a few more years of life.
So after about 150 miles on a Supertec 2.4 ModS engine and transmission on the Green 69 targa we've deceided to go BIGGER. As in a 3.0SC longblock taken all the way down. 10.2 CR Mahles taken back to maybe 9.5 to 9.8, machined heads to go full MFI S spec. Kind of like a 3.0RS. It should have a little more grunt. We will use a different 69 901 transmission that is regeared, Wavetrac, aluminum intermediate plate, side plate. and internal bearing support. Visually it should look very much like the engine we just pulled out of the car.
I'll probably try to list the engine and transmission on BAT. Hoping to get around 25K for the engine and transmission.
Engine and transmission are SOLD for 25K.
I feel your choice to eliminate the bling colors on the suspension parts was a good one. Does not go with the 60/70’s theme.
Incredible car….. about 15 years ago I built a 3.0 Carrera engine to 3.0 RS spec, using mag stacks. It really ran well. It was mentioned on this board at some point but I can’t find it.
Rick,
Thank you very much for the kind words. If anyone can find that thread I'd love to read it. When you post I pay particular interest in your comments. You've also listed some very cool 67 parts as well.
I'm really excited to build this 3.0 RS ish engine. I think Doug (mister NevertoMany) the owner of the Targa will love it paired to a C, GA, O, V, ZD, 7:31, Wavetrac transmission. The 3.0 will have the torque to handle the longer geared transmission and run 3100 RPM at a nice touring speed of 80.
As I haven't been to California for 2 years I've deceided to take the 2.4 engine and transmission to Pleasanton myself. Maybe a quick stop at Jerry Woods Enterprises, then down PCH to Carpinteria, then to Temeculla to see Dean Polopolus. Then back home.
Thanks again for the comments.
I went to inspect some exhaust and metal work on the 69 POLO car. I'm pleased with the results.
This detail shop here in Denver?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Pomares
Yes. Adams Polishes. West side of 84th and I25. Ask for Tyler. Tell him you saw my Yellow Porsche.
Will do. Thank you. And I sure would like to see that yellow car in person myself... Possibly I'll see you around town.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Pomares
Damon’s 911E shroud came. Very nice. I cleaned up the air filter. It was somewhat ruff. The 69 coupe body is starting to take shape.
..........wow
I had an awesome day yesterday. I picked up Elephant Racing’s GT3 type front suspension from Chuck. He was kind enough to give me a tour of his facility and look at some really nice parts like his 930 type calipers for 911, 69 912, and maybe 914’s I’m guessing.
Next I went to Jerry Wood’s shop. I wanted to talk to them about their POLO engine build on a 356 B. The induction on that engine is awesome. I ended up talking to Jerry and his staff for about two hours. What a great time!
Then it was off to to see Clint Smith owner of Rebel S Racing. I have all his suspension bits on my car and will be up grading to his coilovers and 935 spring plates. I bet we talked for three hours. For me this was a very special day.
By the way, Jerry Woods and Clint work together on parts projects. Jerry thinks very highly of Clint.
From there it was off to Carpinteria to see family.
Sounds like a very informative time. In the later 80's I took the Woods/Anderson engine rebuilding course at Wood's shop. Although I had been doing it for 15 years at that point I just wanted to go to meet and learn something from the very best, and the stories those guys told were priceless. Jerry spend a entire season with the Kremers when they were winning everything in sight.
The developement of parts these days like the items you bought are really good stuff.
Rick,
I had a great time. Jerry is 71 and I’m 69. Wether it’s Harvey, Jim of Easy fame, or Jerry, we were all from SoCal. We’ll talk Porsche’s then it always ends up of experiences we had back in the 50’s, 60’s and early 70’s when we were young.
I’m working with Steven Rowe building this 3.2 MFI engine in Denver. Steven and Jerry know each other and I guess they turned a competitive wrench or 2 on some race cars at the same track. It’s a small vintage Porsche world out there.
Yup, I am only 68. 60's 70's, those were times. Can't we turn back the clock?
The 50’s for me was a care free time one block from the beach. I was to young to worry about anything. I feel very lucky to have had those experiences.
Spending time at Elephant Racing, Jerry Woods, and Rebel Racing I felt like a kid in a candy store. Soooo may goodies.
This front suspension is from Elephant. Coilovers and 935 spring plates from Rebel. And an assortment of body stiffeners. Mind you this is all R and D stuff to test on my POLO test mule car to make sure it functions well before I add a LWB version to the 69 2.7 liter POLO car for Doug.
The car was invited to a Dealership open house last night. They said I could come to.
VERY nice Chris !!!!!
What dealership is this?
Stevinson in Denver. The open house was to show off the new building additions to their customers.
Clint has been helping me with the suspension on my 68, he is topnotch for sure.
I had two crossbar triangles milled out and now the inlet and outlet on the tank will be repositioned so the fuel lines will have a strait shot. The tank will change color to black.
The center of the inlet/outlet holes will be a little higher then the small hole and they will be centered left to right. The O on the crossbar is where the small hole is when looking at it level. The X's are about where the two holes with threading will be moved. The inlet and outlet ports will be almost flat with just a very slight upward angle. That area needs attention anyway as I had a small fuel leak from a broken O ring in the past. I also use an aluminum washer that's not seen as I've hand threaded those parts in and out 5 or so times as I measure everthing.
Most of the time when stock is altered it creates a chain of things that will need to be altered to make it all work together.
Oh, and I had to have the steering rack holes on the crossbar milled 1mm towards the center on each side. I'm still using the SWB steering rack with turbo tie rods and it works well.
I need some input. Which decklid? Bearing in mind this is a gentleman's hotrod. So we can do whatever we want. The yellow decklid is a SWB decklid from my car and is there just to look at the lines on the car, which is a 69. The exhaust tips probably will get shortened some.
Chris,
To me the 'hump' deck lid brakes the the 911 arc silhouette....
And the 'quad opening' is just too attention grabbing....
Plain or louvered for my .02 .... ;)
Cheers,
cm
Chris,
What about the louvered lid with a 'mesh' insert instead of the factory grill. I think it would tie the front mesh detail in better with the back.
My 2 C worth.
Of the choices, louvered or original for sure. Not sure on the grill approach with a louvered lid but probably 6 of one and half dozen of the other...definitely don't like the quad opening and the scoop just feels wrong.
I do remember a scooped 67S that Don was selling that may be worth considering as an option...but you can see from the profile view in the gallery that the silhouette is definitely perturbed as Chuck suggests.
http://porsport.com/1967_911s_coupe_forsale
Really like the work you're doing Chris.
how about a stock-ish hood 1 1/2 times larger than stock
one opening.
I'm starting the process of adding strengh for coilovers. The spring plate area, stronger rear sway bar mounts, top of rear shock towers, and a couple other areas will happen in the next couple weeks I hope.
Then undercoating.
I like the louvered one
How do you plan to do the undercoating? Just touch up the existing or undercoat everything?
Will be interesting to see what you come up with so that it's looks good.
The undercoating will probably be done by Vintage Car Works when the Elephant Racing spring plate stud supports, and upper rear shock mount supports are welded in. You will see to some extent the bead around the outside edge. I don't want it ground off. I will clean up the melted undercoating. The grinding marks will be covered. I'm confident VCW's will be able to match an spot in the undercoating. After that a few thousand miles of small pebbles and road dust it will look fine. The only way you'll see the bead is under full wheel lock after you get down on your knees. Whoever ends up with this car down the road, I'll want them to be able to see that area has been streghtened.
I say the 'hump' deck lid as it original. And if it is a rod, why not? - AngeloQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris Pomares
I've been getting the body ready to be mounted on the Celeste. Since the drivetrain and suspension are off I thought this would be a good time to check the body out after 55 years of use. I took a peak in the torsion tubes. Perfect! I've taken the turn signals and headlights off and it looks like the day the car was built. I'm lucky to have such a rust free car. I've digital probed everywhere I can think of. I've replaced the engine sound pad. Metal under the pad? Perfect. I even had a 1 by 1 hole cut inboard of the front passenger side suspension pickup point and ran the probe over to the driiver side battery tray (SWB). No rust. Then POR15, then wax and welded up the hole. Over half of the paint is orginial. The only place I haven't seen is under the glass. When this work is done it will be nice to know the car is strait or will be strait. To be honest the car seems to have been in a small shunt at some point in it's life. I'm guessing it was hit at the left front. It was repaired well probably sometime early in it's life. It has a 68 driver front fender but it's a last 20 67 Karman car so the 68 fender could have been installed at the factory. Another reason to put it on a Celeste. Finding a longhood that's never been in some kind of shunt is a very rare car indeed.
The new engine build for Doug's E targa will have a bit more go when done. It's based on an aluminum SC case with new Mahle 10.2 to 1 P&C's and will be a 3.2. It will be single plug so compression might end up maybe 9.5 to 1 ish. It will run full S pec MFI and have a nice new green engine shroud with powder coated oil cooler air channel. Head work for the MFI injectors, intake and exhaust ports along with valve guides is currently in the process. Rebuilt fuel pump. The throttle bodies are off to be restored. I'm thinking it will be kinda like a early to mid 70's 3.0RS (3.2) engine. The green shroud will make it look like a 69 2.0E MFI with an extra 1.2 liters and S spec. Granted some parts will be plastic not early mag but close enough. Power wise it should be a bit of a sleeper. A 2.0E has about 140hp if I recall. I'm hoping this one will be 215 plus. As it will have good torque the 901 will have a C 1st, then GA, O, V, ZD. A ZD at 80 is a nice cruise at 3200 rpm's behind a 3.2 that will hardly raise a sweat. Doug will have to learn to be very nice to 1st. A C 1st gets you accross the widest intersections with rpm's to spare.
If all goes well I'm hoping both of these cars will be ready by late spring. Then it's on to the 69 2.7 POLO.
Looks like a fun build.
A 3.2 liter 9.5:1 MFI engine should have way more power than 215hp? I'm guessing 240-250.
My stock 2.7 liter 8.5:1 MFI engine dyno'd at 228hp.
Doug
If it makes that kind of hp the other Doug will be very happy.
Chris,Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Pomares
I'm not sure who Celeste is and I know that as we all get older mounting anything becomes more difficult...but perhaps this type of information should remain private...or at least posted in off topic?
Celeste will surely appreciate a bit more discretion from you in this area...
Jim
Celeste would probably be shocked and horrified; Celette less so :p
Thanks for the spelling correction. I'll try to get it right in the future. I never won a spelling contests in school. But I was an assassin in dodgeball. I'm looking forward to knowing the suspension pickup points are spot on before adding the coilovers and Elephant's GT3 type front suspension.
The car is just about ready for the CELETTE. Then several pieces of bracing will be welded on. I’ll post as things progress.
Looks strange to see those modern wiring looms hanging out the back of a early 911.
Yes it does. And it takes more time dropping or installing the driveline to.
Everything lines up just about perfect!
I'll shoot and post more soon.
Here are a few pictures of the car on the table. Derek is welding in support for the coilovers front and rear and a couple of custom touches. When it comes time to sell the car (when? I have no idea) I'll be able to show the car was strait and true in 2022.
While the car was on the table a repair is taking place under the spring plate studs on the driver side. At some point in this cars life it was jacked up in the wrong place. The outer layer was cut, reformed, and reattached. I was curious to see what was under the skin. ZERO rust! I've been unable to find any rust on this car other than a little surface rust on the inside of the car under the driver and passengers feet. Water must of settled there at some point. Maybe 12X12 inches. I've used a digital probe in the torsion tube, rockers, heater tubes, cut a hole in the front suspension pan and looked inside, pulled the sound pad off, looked behind the headlights & turnsiginals, ZERO rust. I've not pulled the windows out yet to look there. It's gotta have some somewhere I just haven't found any yet thankfully.
The factory welds on the studs will get cleaned up and the Elephant plates will get welded over the studs.
Since the engine is out I thought it was a no brainer to adjust the valves. I also droped off my 70 amp altenator for a 18,000 mile checkup.
I cleaned out a little grit just behind the fan but I didn't touch the cylinders or heads.
Derek is doing a nice job of cleaning up the welds around the spring plate posts.
First coat of undercoating and a few gas tank pictures. There won't be a tank screen. I'll run a filter between the tank and fuel pump. I run another big one in the engine compartment behind the coil packs.
Excellent photos Chris
Thanks Rick.
It’s almost time to take the car back to my shop.
We’re having fun.
What's welded on to the trailing arm piece?
Wondering same. Sway bar attachment?Quote:
Originally Posted by mepstein
my guess would be a pickup pad for easier/damage-free lifting the carQuote:
Originally Posted by jmz
You are correct. The remaining anodizing will be removed, then the parts will get cleaned up before it gets reanodized.
I did some test fitting of a new fuel filter. It will all come off as I’m replacing my 19 mm master cylinder and front lines with a 20.2 mm master.
Since the engine is out I had the alternator serviced along with a few other items. Here are the 4 titanium valves after 18,500 miles. I removed the rubber grommet in the picture. The white specs are from a thick paper towel .
I took off my 19 mm master and am going to try a 20.2 mm master from a 1990 ish Golf. They also use a 22.2 mm master but I think it's too big for my aplication. I run 4 piston Boxster calipers up front and 42 mm 2 piston ATE's in the rear. If I ran Boxster's on all 4 corners I would have picked the 22.2's.
I also made a couple front brake lines.
I had some new rear caliper brackets made to better locate the rear calipers.
The car is slowly going back together. I hope to have it running in about 10 days. I'm trying to tighten up the top of the bilstein struts. I wish there was a hole for a alan head tool. No such luck. I refuse to use channel locks! I'll have my welder alter this tool to fit if I can't find a proper tool.
I wish there was a way to rotate these pictures.
The engine just got pressure fed tensioners.
Oil, Peter Built axles and heater tubes go on next. Then it’s time to bring the car to life for the driving season.
I wish I was there to have you take me for a ride. Impressive build.
Rick,
If you get to the Denver area durning driving season look me up. One of these years I would like to come to one of Jim's cars and coffee. Then head south for some car events in Carmel. If I still have the car we'll do a drive in the car. Then on to Carpinteria. As a kid I spent part of each summer in Pacific Grove with my mom's oldest brother and family. They were good friends with the Motherheads who ran the food stand by the salt water pool in the 50's and 60's. I miss that place at least the way I remember it in that time frame.
Lot's of changes to the car. I hope I got it right.
I was hoping to go to the R Groupe event in Utah. It's not going to happen. My wife booked us for that week in Sedona, Az. Maybe next time if it's offered.
My Orange Bar died. So I thought I’d add some gold. It looks much better on the car. It will do for now. If I can find a perfect vintage Orange Bar for $250 I'd buy it.
A little extra fire protection is a good thing. Also keeping an eye on the AFR up at 9 to 12,500 feet.
The building my shop was in got sold. The new owner needs it. All my stuff other than my car is in storage till August. I'll have to do what I can in my garage at home, and do some work out of Vintage Car Works where some final touches are being done to a 69 Golden Green Targa. And Rowe Performance where a 3.2 MFI engine with RSR sized induction and new slightly bigger SSI heat exchangers is being built for the same car off a 82SC case. I've been asked to do a open box revel on them and a video on their fitment on the engine. I'm way behind on this. I'll do a revel when I get in my new shop and a video when they are fitted to the engine. A fresh built 2.4 Mod S just didn't have enough get up and go power. The stacks have been cerakoted black. Not the throttle bodies as I don't want to take them apart. The fuel pump is at Fairchild for a different space cam and whatever as the bump is a fresh S rebuild from them but not specked to this engine.
I saw this car yesterday. I want one.
^^^^^ 1959 was an amazing year
WOW! I never dreamed this little car would get 200,000 page views. Thanks everyone for the interest in the car.
Doesn’t surprise me a bit. This seems to have been a very unique built and very well done.
Agreed and well earned !!!!Quote:
This seems to have been a very unique built and very well done.
The car got some attention this weekend at a local car show. It was picked as best European car last year. There where about 200 cars, several local vendors and food trucks. I enjoy meeting folks who have restored a bunch of different cars. The weather was perfect.
Very cool, congrats :cool: :)
I have been moving the shop and it's just going too slow. The work I've been doing is in two other shops tell I get 220 hooked into the two post lift. So here are a few pictures to look at. Most of which I probably posted before.
I bought my car from Craig Smith in Morrow Bay so I think I need this poster.
Nice shoot'n Chris !!!!! :)
Cool poster ... ;)
Very cool !
I talked to Jeff Abate last night for the better part of an hour. The knowledge base for POLO's over the last 10 years has really grown. I might need a refresh/upgrade in the next year or two. HP numbers are going way up. Here's a dyno sheet on his new 2.5 liter POLO. He has a second engine about done that should make another 10 to 20 hp over this one. That means there is another 30 to 45 hp to gain with a refresh. I'm not alone anymore. There is a nice group of guys out there now that really get it. 80 to 100 pounds less weight with 6 cylinder power.
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-...gine-dyno.html
225 hp is pretty cool....
Now what. 30 days and 1000 miles away. Need a place to stay, and a secure place for the car.
Chris, I'm sure this is somewhere already but can you please refresh how much a complete polo motor with airbox and exhaust weighs? Thanks, Jim H.
Jim,
To be honest I don't remember. Some years back I took the time to figure it out. As I recall the engine and you have to add on a oil tank. It came in 80 to 100 pounds under a SWB 911. A 67 911S weighs 2271 pounds stock. As I recall this POLO car is like 2150 to 2175 pounds. I've done nothing to lighten the car. All steel body work except the fiberglass rear license panel with the steel one under it. My exhaust is probably 15 pounds lighter than a stock 6. My muffler only weighs 7 pounds.
For better info on this talk to or email Dean. As he manufactures the basic kit and builds motors it's not my place to quote you a price. Plus inflation changes cost constantly so you'll need to contact him.
www.polomotor.com
His site is down for a couple days for updates.
Bored? Go to mine. It also needs updates as the specs for the car have changed.
After giving some thought as to what my car actually is, I came up with calling it a 912 SUPER. What's a 912 SUPER? I would say a Porsche 912 powered by a POLO or Emory 2CAM4.
Saturday morning maybe 5 AM ish I'll leave Carpinteria and head toward South Bay to check out where I grew up and probably spend a little time in Costa Mesa. That afternoon sometime I'll head to the Long Beach Marriott where I'll spend the night before LUF8. If any of you are gathering somewhere in the area on Saturday, I'd like to attend.
All cleaned up and ready for a 2500 mile road trip. 1100 miles later there a lot of dead bugs to clean up.
PM me and give me a way to text or call if any of that works for you.
Thanks everyone.
I installed a almost new and still perfect set of Audette LED's. The previous owner has an Italian spec 911 and went back to Italian spec lights. As I'm all about improving safety and performance, these are perfect for this car. I had the glass clear masked.
The little lights are used as daytime driving lights when in city traffic. I bought them at a BMW motorcycle shop.
And whoever turned the photos, thanks.
Added easy on easy off spare set of fog light covers with butterfly nuts for cooler weather. I have duel oil coolers in the front fenders. The little lights are LED daytime running lights. And picked up my second set of 6X16 Fuchs powder coated in Army green. They will be mounted with super stickies.
I've been focused on the 69E lately. It's in the middle of painting at the moment. Body and doors are close. A second hood and bumpers are in the process. Then it's 1200, 2500, 3000, and finally 8000 before the polish. Then custom fitment of 2 altered trombone oil coolers with front crossover lines.
I'll be doing a video reveal on the new SSI 38/41 mm tube heat exchangers this week for Soren at SSI. The current ones are 35/38 ID/OD pictured on the bench. Now I need to figure out how to post in on YouTube. I'll do a second one on fitment when the 3.2 MFI engine gets completed. I might do a third on a chassis dyno.
Then the E gets the suspension changed to close to Longballa spec. As it's a Targa so we'll go 19/24 or 25 mm T bars and 18 mm F&R sways.
OMG.....that Golden Green color on the 69E is awesome !!!....you have encouraged me to find a body shop and painter for my 73S Targa in Signal Yellow....
Just WOW Chirs !!!!! .... Beautiful
Jeff Jebate has a new POLO 2.5 that dynoed at 251 hp. At 5000 rpm’s things get very exciting. The owner of DC cams studied the results and said there is another 10 to 20 hp available.
It’s enough to get me interested in upgrading. 240 plus hp in a SWB’ed longhood with 80 pounds less weight behind the rear axles. That would be an E ticket ride for sure.
Whoa !!!!!
Impressive figures, how does the sound compare to a 6 though? :)
in the worse case like a 904…;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Flieger
this is the polo sound from mr ruf.
https://youtu.be/vht-zD3aGXM
there are plenty of soundfiles out on the tube..
This car is the first 912 series car to get one of these engines. It was installed in 2011. This video is of the engine before in was installed in my car. It has a totally different exhaust today. Heat is a good thing in Colorado. There are custom built heat exchangers now. Back in 2011 I had to make EVERYTHING one of custom. Under 3500 to 4000 it sounds like a unique 4. Over 4000 to 7200 it starts sounding more like a 6 the higher the RPM's. At sea level mine makes around 190 ish hp, not the 90 it came with. While not a 251 hp rocket, it can hang with the old slow long hood cars like a 2.4S and the early Boxster's. The engine has 23000 miles on it today. I call it a 912 SUPER.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyWMnx1yxvc
The chart is of another 2.4 POLO. Mine has had head work and they flow between a 3.6 and a 3.8RS heads. I'm guessing my engine makes maybe 5 to 10 more hp.
I've been talking to Jeff, John Dougherty of DC Cams, Jerry Woods, and a handful of other POLO engine techs that have used the latest data to get 230 to 270 hp out of this package. I will now start acquiring the needed parts over the next 12 to 18 months to make this upgrade. 250 hp in a 2100 pound car with 80 pounds less weight behind the rear axles than a 6 just sounds so appealing. Driving at 5 to 12,500 feet here in Colorado I need all the help I can get. (Mt Evans and Pikes Peak are 14,000) A small turbo would help but this is a purely a NA car.
The thought of surprising some of the newer cars on a mountain tour puts a smile on my face.
I'm thinking 190 hp is enough for the first one. 10 year younger 912 POLO's should have more power than this car. And I can't make a 205 to 250 hp badge out of a super 90 badge.
I'll keep the one on the car an make the other. 912 Super 190 might be too wordy.
Hmmmmmmm. Maybe.
Two sets of clothes? Dress and sport?
I picked up a second hood for my car today.
Out of powder coating. There is a tiny bubble between the E an 2. I’ll live with it.
I turned over the engine for the first time since mid October. Reached in through the window and gave it a 2 or 3 second spin for oil pressure. Then reached in, turned it over and 3 seconds later it started right up. I never touched the throttle. It purred like a kitten. I ran it for 30 minutes to give the battery a good charge.
I’m also testing a Rennshift. I have it adjusted I think. Too much snow on the roads to see how it feels.
I think this time of year I’ll call the shop the ice box. See that tiny heater up in the top left corner? That’s it for a 20X40 by 15 feet tall shop. It’s good for heating the top two or 3 feet in that corner. So I just turn it off and squeeze up against an area heater. It’s good for 12 to 18 inches. The shop this time of year is in the 40’s.
Center brake lights. After these pictures I turned the LED light bar in the lights horizontal.
Continue to enjoy this thread. I did check out your website but didn’t see this. Do you have a video of your 2CAM4 running so that I can hear what it sounds like?
Peter,
I don't have a current video of the engine running. I'll work on it this spring.
Here is a short one before the engine was installed in the car. I'm running a different exhaust now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyWMnx1yxvc
I just picked up a couple jack point extensions I had black Anodized.
Would love to hear it with a sport muffler. Neat!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Pomares
I removed the clients silver JWest shifter for one I ordered. Black base and knob and polished shifter. With a stromski coupler it is a nice package.
I also had my machinist widen the slot for 2 heater levers.
Next I'll paint some washers black to match the base.
The DP 902#10 912 POLO getting the finishing touches at Tuthill in the UK for Matt Sanchez.
He sent a 10 second video of the startup but I couldn't download as the file was too big.
ohh lala…this will be the contrast to my patina ridden 65…
a brand new baby..:)
looking forward to see him hopefully LeMans
I just picked up freshly mounted new stickies. When I roll them on the shop floor they pick up whatever's on the floor
very nice !
2023 Parade in Palm Springs
I'm not sure this is a group that normally goes to the Parade. My car was selected to participate in a display. So I'm going this year. Another reason is a friend that I grew up with in Palos Verdes is there. He owns Wally's Desert Turtle Restaurant. I haven't seen him in 25 years.
So I'm curious if anyone is driving from or through Colorado to get there? Maybe we can tour there together.
More stickies. Just not tires. The 912 SUPER will be left on. The green dots are magnetic. I’ll put them on for fun when showing the car at Cars and Coffees.
Oops. I forgot to include the Early 911S banner.
Wondering how those through the horn grill lights perform? Car looks great, and light…
Rick,
I bought those from a BMW motor cycle store. To be honest I do very little night driving these days. Where I like to drive has many deer and other critters. So they’re used as daytime running lights when I’m on the freeways in Denver.
I just did the LED thing other than the turn signals. I still need to find the off white gauge bulbs.
Hey Chris - we are going to Parade - leaving on the 16th - give us a call����
I added a badge. I like the colors. Go to chrsn.de.
It’s a Euro vintage racing car club.
Tried out some new tires
What’s the Marshall box in the back?
Peter,Quote:
Originally Posted by 72targa
Its a Bluetooth speaker.
From what I have read these have fantastic sound quality and about 20hrs of battery life .
Mark is correct. It works fine as long as the engine isn’t at full song. When it is I’d rather listen to the engine anyways.
I installed it for the trip from Denver to Palm Springs, Ca. I was asked to display the car in the historic area at the Parade. There are a lot of areas that have no cell service in Western Colorado and Utah. So music will be somewhat hit and miss. My taste leans towards R&B.
I just added 50 pictures on www.reSeeWorks.com
If you choose to go there, scroll down and click on the 912P license plate.
I just added LED lights under the hood. They really make a difference.
I'll be there with my car. It's a fun event.
https://www.govwec.org/car-show/
Because of rain the event is postponed tell June. We hope.
I’ll be in Palm Springs for the first 2 or 3 days of the Parade showing the car in the historic display. If you’re in the area I’d love to meet any of you who are there.
I couldn’t keep the afr in the zone. I finally figured out the efi barometric map sensor was toast. I just drove from 5 to 10,000 feet and the afr is perfect. I have fought this for 2 years. I don't know why it took so long to figure it out. I’m a happy camper.
I'll be there with my car. It's a fun event.
https://www.govwec.org/car-show/
This should happen tomorrow.
Chris, Really great looking car and engine. Wondering what the cost window is for a Polo 2.4 EFI engine?
You will have to talk to Dean Polopolus. The POLO is his product. Go to www.polomotor.com. The supplier of my EFI, Electromotive, seems to be out of business. At this point I would probably go Motec/Jenvey.
My engine with 993 parts makes 190ish hp at sea level. Maybe 160-170 here in Denver. We all loose 3% for every 1000 feet of elevation in a NA car. So maybe 125 HP at 12,500 feet. In the last 10 years some of the builders who use Dean's kits and other aftermarket custom parts are now getting 230 to 250 hp at sea level. Those engines are bumping up to 100K. If you want a budget hotrod stick with a hypo 6. I've never wanted a tribute car or what everybody else has built. In everything I do I want to make something I've never seen before. Something unique at that time. There are about 8 to 10 of these cars on the road globally today and more in the works. If I sold my car I'd have to make something else.
I'm glad I built my car 10 years ago. It's had many upgrades over the years but the main costs, a very clean 912, and the engine were a fraction of todays cost.
I make $100 an hour building these POLO cars. Most of the shops are around $150 plus here in Denver. Labor is a big part of the overall cost of any project these days. DIY guys who work in their own garage don't have all the overhead. When I'm working on my car I'm not making $100 and hour on someone else's car. I factor the hours I spend on my car into how much it would cost to replace it. The shops who work on my Audi and my wife's Mercedes are over $165.00 and hour. When I take those cars in I almost never leave for under $1000.00. Even doing most of the work as I did, I couldn't reproduce it for $250K. It would probably be north of $300.
The Polomotor website seems to be a dead link. However, I recently learned there is another company offering semi-bespoke, highly upgraded 2.4L 4-cylinder engines for a 912. https://powerhausvwparts.com/shop/ol...er-carburetors There is one running around Denver, and I had the occasion to drive it last week. Very impressive for about $10,000 to $17,000 all-in.
There are some very impressive large displacement overhead valve VW type 1 and 4 engines out there these days. Some with a lot more hp than my engine. I prefer overhead cams and the music they make. I also like 5 main bearing cases as opposed to 3 when dealing with such large displacement engines. If not a overhead cam POLO I’d go with a Jake Raby type 4.
I have 25,000 miles on my engine and it’s running strong and about to make it’s 3rd trip to California this year. My POLO is kind of like a POLO Normal or T compared to the 230 to 250 hp engines being built on POLO kits and Emory/Jeff Gamroth 2CAM4's. Mine spins to 7200. Some of the newer ones go to 8000. It's normal for technology to move things forward over time. Mine will always be the first one.
Which case do you think will hold up to high hp over the long haul. I think I like having a bearing between every rod thank you very much. Maybe they're faster but for how long?
I stand somewhat corrected. I just looked up the CB aluminum case. It is an improvement over the 912 type 616 case. I still prefer the POLO case.
Wow, impressive option for the money. Any idea how much power they make?
https://www.912bbs.org/forum/forums/912-renegades.36/
If you guys want to discuss engine swaps other than Polopolus/Emory 2CAM4's, please go to the 912bbs or start a new thread. When a 911 owner on the 911S Registry has a thread on their build people don't talk about how they can use a Subaru flat 6 or LS V8's because it's cheaper and makes great power. Other than motor mounts, oil tank, oil filter console, a few interior changes, and better brakes on the 67 911S's the 912 and 911's were the same. An overhead cam 4 engine is in my mind the proper engine to put in a 912. Dean and the Emory's are building these engines as fast as they can to meet demand. When Hurly Haywood came to Denver to share his new book he went out and sat in my car. Then he talked about the Speedster the Emory's were building for him with a 2CAM4 not a VW engine. RUF, Canepa, Jerry Woods, Craig Smith, etc. build these engines for their customer cars, not VW's engines. Comparing the 2CAM4 to a VW engine is like comparing a Subaru flat 6 to a Porsche flat 6. Putting a Asian/American/or an American repop VW engine in a German car? No thanks. This thread is about building the very best car I can, with the very best parts.
June 2023 Issue of Excellence Magazine.
Going Faster
Skip Barber sold his iconic four-cam-powered Carrera for this “ordinary” (but extraordinary) 356B Coupe with a POLO Motor. The guys who have the money go for the 2CAM4's be it a POLO or Emory. To be honest they are now beyond my price range. I feel fortunate to have bought one when I did.
https://www.polomotor.com/
The site is set up just to read.
If you want more you contact him on the site. Just make sure your fairly serious. Entry level is mid to high 5 figures.
I had my first selfie turned into a sticker. That way I'll be easy to find at Rennsport. Those are the eyes of a guy who sees the world from a different place.
If all goes as planned the car should be in the 912 Corral. I'm not sure what wheels and tires to go with. Any preferences?
Very nice presentation. What are the wheel choices?
Oh, I prefer the regular Fuchs finish.
Rick,
I tend to agree, even though I like them both. The new tires with a 200 wear rating compared to the 340's on the Firestones made a HUGHE difference. When I put the car away, the tires have a bunch of little pebbles stuck to them. When I drive with the traditional Fuchs, those driving old sports cars give a thumbs up, as I do to them. When I go on a drive with the green wheels, with big tire stickers, the kids go nuts.
Looking at the newer Corvette, it seems sports cars are made for 200 pound plus folks these days. Not the 160 that many of us were back then. After my heart arrack at the Parade I've gone from 225 to 195. I'm headed to 185 by the ski season, and hopefully 170 by this time next year. I want to surf again. My 9 footer is at my brother in law's house in Carpinteria. Rincon is a 20 walk, or a 4 minute drive from his house. For those who know the area he and my wife Martha are part of the Bailard family. The 2nd offramp north of Rincon. His mailing address is PO Box 5.
The top picture was shot by Randy Wells at the SLC Parade.
2nd and 4th picture are of the Vail Concourse weekend.
#3 was sent to me by one of the folks that run the Telluride Concourse.
I’m on a 1 week Porsche break. Then it’s getting cars ready for Rennsport.