:-) You're in a different league to me - it seems I need to up my game. Spent an enjoyable hour this afternoon polishing the door striker plates, making sure I didn't scratch the plastic. I felt most Tiltonesque.
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:-) You're in a different league to me - it seems I need to up my game. Spent an enjoyable hour this afternoon polishing the door striker plates, making sure I didn't scratch the plastic. I felt most Tiltonesque.
The last photo IS the 67R and 68T Rally Porsche group 3 flare with matching T Rally bumper. Undisputed by the many experts who have scrutinized this car.
Don
That flare has got that "quick kick out" associated with the R. Don - are you able to elaborate on the bumper in relation to meeting the flare?
Bob, Porsche split the bumper along the top edge and added a long tringular piece of metal to kick out the side of the bumper to meet the edge of the flare and widen the top. The bracket along the side was lengthened also so the side of the bumper could effectively be pulled out. Hope that explains not confuses that! :)
Don
Thanks Don. Makes sense. Always interesting to SWBs with flares and type of flares then to see how the rear bumpers were modified.
http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/...1R11899010.jpg
Similar but wider on above car ?
Below is page 12 from the 68 GT group 3 FIA Homologation paper 577 11/30/67 for 01/01/68 911T(R).
Part 901.503.325./326.00 for 7J x 15". (Foto 3)
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6974/dsc01637zy2.jpg
Quite a long time since I managed an update, so here goes.....
Having removed the engine and gearbox the car is now off its wheels and on a trolley ready for the removal of brakes and running gear.
I have continued to clean up a number of parts and will report on those in detail at a later date. Other parts such as wheels should be back from refurbishment soon so again I will update once I get them back.
The car was produced without heating, running headers etc...
The left and right heating duct tinware off the engine have a pair of red plastic (although fading form the African sun) caps with a screw to secure; I can't believe these are factory fitment so a couple of questions:
1. What should the blanking pieces look like?
2. Has anyone seen anything like these red caps used before.....they have no markings and are a perfect fit.
......any help or thoughts gratfully received.
threaded caps and then a self taping screw to secure .... that looks like local engineering to me..... but I'm no expert at all.