Porsche 356 info help.

Stability is a subjective thing and also highly dependent on condition. Of course with any car you want all the bushings to be up to snuff, and the front suspension links on 356s are prone to wear, but relatively straight forward to rebuild. The rear weight bias in the 911 and suspension bushings in the early cars can make them a handful at high speed, coupled with the low turns ratio rack and pinion. The 356 is kind of the opposite, with a smoother and more forgiving steering box and suspension with less weight in the rear, but more tendency for oversteer at the limit. So going down the highway they feel more settled and comfortable, but never lift throttle in the turns. The 911 is more stable in the turns but feels more high strung and demanding going straight down the road.

SV

I think it is time for a 356 test drive :) - see how long it takes for someone to yell 'HEY I HAD A KARMANN GHIA JUST LIKE THAT!'

be careful on the autobahn with the 616 engine.
It does not like to go at higher revs on constant time and needs 'wechsellast'.
The pushrod engine is nice on smaller roads, getting from village to village, reving through the gears.
If the engine is new and set, of course you can race the hell out of it, but the circulating mass of the crankshaft with the three major bearings does limit the usability of the engine at higher rev.

The 5 major bearings of the 911 engine is THE advantage of it and thus allows different driving and reving.

This results in the 911/4 engine, the 63/64 concept engine for the 912, which also fits nicely in a 356....
then you got a nice 356/11, capable of all and everything.

but anyway...a 356 with a 616 engine is adorable and if taken care well off, can drive for millions of miles...

oh, i did not know that the 616 engine could have issues with autobahn driving..? I tend to drive ca. 300km stint before a 30-45min coffebrake, normally 800-1000 km pr day. I was told that the 1600 and 1600s 60/75 hk engine was the most reliable 356 engines?

I would realy like to keep the stock engine in the car..

They all last a VERY long time, only the S90 has a few weak spots (and the twin cam, different story). I attended probably a dozen international meetings in Europe with people driving in from thousands of km away, they had a bunch of 356 from Sweden, Denmark and Norway at the event in Spain, and the ALL drove, so they can't be all that unreliable. Just drive with your brain. A 356 is no fun at 180km/h as it is floored.

Here in the US we have people attending the 356 holiday events from all over the country. We had an owner with a Bt5 1600N drive 5000 miles clear across the USA to get there. He won the 'travel' award. 120-130km/h on the interstate is normal here too nowadays.

Check with the 356 registry or your local 356 Club Denmark.

. . .

Standard Party Line says that the 'A's are better-looking --- and the 'C's have better brakes

Whatever. Had mine for 13 years. Tough/fun cars

'B's have more power, tougher gear-boxes, huge brakes (for the size/weight o' the car) and the same over-the-top build-quality

All 356s aren't getting any cheaper. Considering how long you'll own the car --- + how long you expect to live . . . I'd look for a project. Break-down the projects that need doing, parcel the work out over time, and put-together a car


I'd check-out the Notches. No bargains, anymore, but . . .




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Originally Posted by lars1965

. . . budget is 80 K max . . .

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Here ya go, then . . .

'. . . A completely numbers-matching car – have COA; 1,646 notchbacks made in 1961; only 99 in 1962; Purchased in Georgia 1988; complete 2-year restoration; Current owner since 1999; same mechanic since 1988; Stripped and repainted original color – Ruby Red – 6202; Replaced battery box & front floor pan (completed in 1980’s); All new Koni shocks, suspension bushings, etc.; Original engine rebuilt 20,000 miles ago; 1750 Big Bore kit and Weber carbs; (Has original carbs, manifolds, air cleaners); Trans completely rebuilt; Interior redone in black leatherette; Nardi steering wheel (has original); Has 4 - 5 ½ x 15 chrome wheels; Has 5 original, date-matched, 4 ½ x 15 wheels; Dunlop 185/65/R15 tires; Books, service records, jack (no tool kit) . . .'

Asking = $86k OBO

https://porsche356registry.org/classifieds/15931


(Not mine)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lars1965

. . . what about the drum brakes and the 1600s engine on the 356B are they strong enough to the job? what to look for regarding maintenance? . . .

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Brakes 're big enough to stop a truck. Kind of a chore to fix-up (if they're totally shot), but once they're sorted, you'll never understand why Porsche went with discs

Maintenance? . . . = oil changes (straight 30w, please), tire rotation + balance, valve adjustment. Last one is the most labor-intensive but still/only takes a ~1 hour to DiY, + no special tools required. And you'll prolly wanna buy a buy a proper grease gun . . . for the 40 zerk fittings scattered all-over the car (don't forget the door hinges)



IMO ---356s are tanks. Zero effort to use + live with




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Just drove over to the coast this morning and picked up a load of Oysters in Tomales Bay. Drove some freeway, some tight twisty Mountain roads (went over Mt Tamalpais), passed through a couple of Redwood Groves, some Shoreline, some crowded city streets in Mill Valley and lots of country roads. The car was great at them all.
I've owned just about every kind of 356 you can imagine and this one is the one that will never get away.

Regards

Jim
65 356C (Mild Outlaw)

Thanks Jim

What a nice picture, we are now
heading to Marbella / spain on holliday, and I have the next 14 days to decide if i should go the 356 B 1962 1600 s way..

rgds.Lars

Lars,

absolutely, yes , go for it....today i still thought: oooh i forgot to mention...the 616 engine is a real short distance engine, as you do only carry 4 liters of oil with you, thus easy to get it on temperature....and yes, you will enjoy it...

enjoy the southern sun