Rust E?

As one thing leads to another... I was just going to take a look at my taillights...

With school out of the way I can jump into this with some funds in hand. This is very exciting for me as it has been one of my sore spots for a long time.

I am going to place a sheet metal order at the end of the month with Stoddard. Any current issues with some of the repro metal from them? Also, is the difference with the 964 p/n door jamb is that it is shorter and does not extend to the top of the wing window?

Anyone have a spare left rear tail light housing.... :eek: :eek: It may be at the limits of what JB weld can handle... :)

It is funny what secrets one can find.The PO found it easier to cut the tail light ground wires that remove one bumper bolt.... :mad:

I got a replacement headlite bucket from Stoddard and it fit well. Looks like your E has more rot in the sills than mine. I was able to cut small sections out and replace w/ small patchs. Sorry I can't offer advice on the later door sill part.

I feel your pain...BTDT.

Here is a link to my latest project where I tackled rust repairs similar to yours.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=407593

I used some Stoddard parts for my last project and they left quite a bit to be desired. As for longitudinals, you really have no choice and they are not bad but the door jamb sections and all the other tidbits you will need are not as good. Better off using factory parts whenever possible.

That being said, I have a '79 SC targa that I am parting out very soon. All the sheet metal is good so I can get you sections.

PM me and I can shoot you my phone number or email.

Wow, quite a TR proj. you are completing there. I know the SC outer rocker is different and I have heard that Targas were made out of thicker steel in some areas too. PM sent.



Well me and the screwdriver had a date tonight... :eek:




The 3/4 trim was the only thing holding the outer rocker to the rear fender...

Rough German assembly workers...crack'n my door panel... :rolleyes:



Inside door presents... :)

GREEN!!!! :D :D



I am hoping to remove the front fenders tomorrow; Last weekend I was repairing the DD so progress has been slow... :o

yep that is an early p car restoration. it took me 3 years. similar sorts of repairs. i was sble to use restoration designs, but heard he is having some issues. rust proofing is something you should consider ifyour going to go through all this trouble.

i am curious what others think about the options there. i found a product called quite car. i was able to spray iton. and it looks like the original stippled finish.

only thing i can tell you is hang in there, take your time, do it right and the rewards will be incredible. i amglad yourgoing tosave this one.

one thing i wish i had that i discovered later are the measurement specs from the factory service man. if you want a copy pm me an i will see if i can get them to you.

You have a quite a project there young man.;):D

Seriously, hope to see you some this summer Andrew but it may not be driving your E though by the looks of it. Is the passenger side sill the same as the driver's side?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fryardds

You have a quite a project there young man.;):D

Seriously, hope to see you some this summer Andrew but it may not be driving your E though by the looks of it. Is the passenger side sill the same as the driver's side?

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Luckily, the ole '72 oil tank keeps most of the "wheel debris" from collecting and rusting on that side. So far so good on the passenger side. Although, it is not over until some lady sings... :D

I am hoping to have the E back together for summer but I may have to take my time and just buy another Porsche.... :eek:

Oh, does that look familiar. I loved the look of your car when I saw it at Road America summer before last, and I look forward to seeing it when done. If I can be of help to you, whether it's tools/tips or some welding, let me know. Mike O'

My hat's off to you Andrew! You have a ton of work ahead of you. Just take your time and soon enough it'll all be behind you.

I always thought that Stoddards had the best replacement parts available considering they sell OEM. Maybe their body parts are sourced from a different vender?

Keep us posted Andrew:)

If you get this project done within 6 months, you will be the "iron man" of Porsche restoration! :eek:

Paint it green again, cool! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

I may have to take my time and just buy another Porsche.... :eek:

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Good idea, it worked out for me....eventually.:D

BTW, Green is good.:)

Thanks for all of the kind words.

Mike M. your car was stunning too at RA; I had no idea you started with a project similar to mine. My E will come back meaner and greener...but not as wide as your car. I really want to put in a TRE CS2 Roll Bar, you know, add some treats for all of the hard work…

Tim, I am also of that opinion so I hope to place an order for metal with them at the end of the week; I will try to keep everything updated.

Mike, I may be able to do it. I don't have all of the life commitments that you guys may have, just a 44 Hour work week with only about 10-12 additional hours commuting. We will see; The other Porsche that I wanted to get this weekend is gone now but a nice 964 would be a good Alt. DD after "they" fix the roads in Melrose Park.

Photos of today's progress, all I have to say... if you have Factory PVC undercoating check for cracks...chip it away and find the cancer behind it.

Both fenders off and then front bumper off with the help of another Mike you all may meet this year (You should call him Soft-E Mike... :D ).




I only have one horn; doubled wires into the one horn and some bare wires? Ideas…



Is this a standard evap. tank?

Factory undercoating, White-ish PVC

A small tack weld holding the driver’s side front fender on but none on the passenger’s side…?

“S” trim removed, there are marks that show the smaller ¾ trim installed previously.

White/green primer on the very edge and back side of the fender? Factory?

Just a little work…

There is red on everything in the front trunk; I feel some heavy solvents are in order.

I knew that my front bumper had holes in it for a long Euro style plate; But now I see that it actually had some clips/speed nuts on the bumper some how…

I love these things. It makes me feel organized.

Dude, it all depends on how far you want to take it, but at this point, I sure would be tempted to just take the whole car apart and get it blasted and primed, then build from there, meaning, make it perfect. It's either that, or you draw the line on how far you want to take it and just build up from there. Meaning, stop disassembling at some point and just fix the necessities and put it back together. A slippery slope and a tough decision for sure. :)

:eek: Holy crap Andrew, you have dived into the "mayaswells" head first! Do you guys here that loud wooshing sound? That is Andrew going down that slippery slope at mach 2.;) Daunting task Andrew and if you ever need a hand with something, do not hesitate to give me a call. Hard to say when to stop as you get in there so far that it just makes sense to do a bare metal respray. Then you are into a full out resto at that point. Good luck and paint her green again.

Andrew, that plastic plug on the inner fender panel, next to the filler nozzle, and the incorrect vapor cannister in the fender all point to that being a Euro market car. Now that you've determined it had Euro plates in front that pretty well nails it. Of course that would explain the severe rusting problems.

That Schwinn is looking like better transportation for this year

Thats not a Schwinn it is a fender stand... I guess, I would like some fun transport for the warm season. A 964 Cab would be a good filler. There is a nice blue one up North for sale but it is a Tip :( .

Thanks for the support; I swear you guys may know me better than I thought. I am sure that I will be eating my words (date -wise) at this point and will owe Mike F. a beer.

Also, can you guys try to talk me out of a CS2 Roll bar from a safety standpoint? I like the look, function, harness use, etc. The split for my use of the car at most would be 30/70 Track/ Street.

Ed,
Thanks the whole evap. system is completely disheveled. I think that when my car was brought over it was thrown together with the right equipment. Tim sent me the correct bracket a while back that holds the evap canister in the trunk but I could not find the correct spot to mount it. The parts I have don’t match the PET but then I looked at the Pdf. Title “USA KATALOG”; so I went to the GB site and looked at that PET Pdf. It is odd as it looks as though the hoses just exit the front of the car!?

I am thinking I will order a set of plates “S-AK 0705”…

I had some energy after work and made some more progress. Some pics and comments….



Pan work? Both Battery boxes are perfect and the pan is solid? HOW THE….look at the tack welds.



9112200705



My hazards stopped working for some unknown reason about a year ago…



I was removing the vents and I was close…I had to peek.



Petrified on the dash lower knee pad right where the production number is; it must be a German joke (I am thinking of leaving it for the next restoration). I bet that guy has a lot of fillings now.




Thanks,

One Stoddard patch panel to the guy who chews the gum....:p

Andrew, taking it down to bare metal? I say keep going. You'll find little bits of rust everywhere.

Also, I think you need to open up the outer rocker and get a good look at the inner rocker.

Mike,

The gum can be yours only if you replace it with a comparable piece.


Bill,

Yep the whole thing... I will open the driver's side rocker but would you think I should do the passenger side as well. There are no signs of rust there thus far.

I think the limitations on the full re-do may be in two parts.


1) Body/Trim, Int., Engine/Trans

2) Suspension

I have already tweaked the suspension to a decent state and with the relatively low miles I can't justify the full re-do.

Speaking of projects, Bill how is the Yeller beast doing?

Stay Tuned.... :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

Speaking of projects, Bill how is the Yeller beast doing?

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Why do you think he bought another early 911.;):D


BTW, I also toyed with the idea of getting a 964, but with all wheel drive and snow tires for some fun in the snow around here. For some reason my wife didn't see that as a worthwhile expenditure.:confused: :D

Ahh man, very cool project. As for the stoddard parts I had some and they required alot of work to fit right. I wound up purchasing some factory parts and used a factory door striker plate, fender support panel.

I used stoddard inner rockers and outer rockers, the inners just need some trimming , 1 of my outers fit perfect and the other required a lot of hammering and fitting to get the curve correct.

Once you get into it a bit, you will find you need to replace some of your door seal channel I was able to build the channel using a simple Harbor Freight stretcher and bender because those parts just aren't available. It can be done I dealt with the same amount of rust as your car and my 72 is getting painted in 2 weeks! Finally light at the end of the tunnel.

Good luck and keep us posted, If you need some tips and or some phone support let me know. I had it when I was doing my project and now done I would be happy to return the favor.

Jon W.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

Bill,
Yep the whole thing... I will open the driver's side rocker but would you think I should do the passenger side as well. There are no signs of rust there thus far.

Speaking of projects, Bill how is the Yeller beast doing?

---

Brian's right. That's part of the reason I got the '68. I've been plagued with back issues on and off for the last several years...trips to the hospital by EMS, etc. Makes any serious body work difficult due to twisting, stretching, etc. I'm hoping to be "back" at by spring/summer. ;)

Re: passenger rocker, I would make that call when all of the paint and u/c has been removed in the area--especially at the seam between the striker panel and rocker. With a repaint, you may find the PO hid some rust there like I did with my car. If all is clear, then I'd leave it. Once you cut up a few cars, you realize rust is everywhere. For example, cutting up a door hinge post will reveal rust lurking inside. Really the only way to arrest rust is to have the car dipped. I still may dip my '72 when the time comes. But, then you have to worry about the fiber heater silencers. :rolleyes: And, on it goes...

Looking forward to seeing your progress. I have no doubt you will do a great job. :)

Just a note I saw your comment about your passenger side. I had the exact same issue.

I was so happy that my passenger outer rock just has some surface rrust on it. However Just to be sure I opened up a section of it, and low and behold my inner rocker was severly rusted almost worse than the drivers side. So I removed my entire outer rocker and found more rust under the rocker and below the door hinge post, the entire bottom of the hinge post was rotten. ANd it went on from there. On my visual rust free passenger side, I wound up replacing :

Outer Rocker
Inner Rocker
Lower Door Hinge post
Inner Firewall to foot well,
Front portion of the floor pan
and a few other bits.

All in all I am very glad I opened it up to take a look.

Jon W.

...and a good "real world" reference point from Jon. Better safe than sorry.

Nice project Andrew!
The car is definitely a European delivery; yellow thread in the seat belts, typical tail light housing, white in the middle, no mirror reflector. May be I have a spare, I'll let you know. Curious to see if the RH side tail light has the same hole issue, normally they do since dirt get easily trapped behind the oiltank.
The weld on the fender to body is a sign that this fender has never been removed before, as per factory. You don't see that very often.

Rgds, Cees

I will enjoy watching the progress of this one. Keep us posted regularly Andrew.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by t6dpilot

I will enjoy watching the progress of this one. Keep us posted regularly Andrew.

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More progress made with the garage setup then the car. Many of the components were in great condition.

Rear interior removed;
Pass. Door disassembled
Pass. Qtr. window removed


Bought a set of wheel dollies

Bought a Garage heater... :D F this 10 degree weather.


The sheet metal has been ordered from Stoddard and should show up by the end of the week.

Thanks!

Lookin' good Andrew. I wouldn't touch anything else in that rear interior, it looks very nice to me. It all gets covered up anyways.

Nice heater, too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

More progress made with the garage setup then the car. Many of the components were in great condition.

Rear interior removed;
Pass. Door disassembled
Pass. Qtr. window removed


Bought a set of wheel dollies

Bought a Garage heater... :D F this 10 degree weather.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...2/IMG_3960.jpg


The sheet metal has been ordered from Stoddard and should show up by the end of the week.

Thanks!

---

Good God, how much digging does your family do? :D

Must be data miners....:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cornpanzer

Good God, how much digging does your family do? :D

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Yeah, my Father is a collector of tools. Be them lawn tools, kitchen tools, cleaning tools, power tools, hand tools...

The list goes on, needless to say there is rarely a need to purchase a tool. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

Yeah, my Father is a collector of tools. Be them lawn tools, kitchen tools, cleaning tools, power tools, hand tools...

The list goes on, needless to say there is rarely a need to purchase a tool. :)

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Cornpanzer, that's one of the funniest things I ever read!

I would have never noticed the shovels:D

Dave, I was thinking the same thing!:D I would be worried about something falling on the car or me.

Andrew, I agree with Mike. Keep the interior the same in the rear and the inside door panels. Keep as much of the original green as you can. Strip and paint the red back to green. See you in a couple of years.;)

My order of sheet metal from Stoddard greeted me as I came home from work today. Christmas in February I guess.

Please note the details.

I also removed the seats, more carpet, and some other smaller items.



Please note my Fathers “Rally” mark on my floor pan. After we rebuild the top end of the motor, He and I took a trip to NY in the car. He did not follow my directions and had to turn around; His temper decided to turn around regardless of the pointed and angled (pyramid-like) center median. I knew that it scraped the under coating some but I had no idea that it made such a good mark. :eek: :eek:



More treasures, Seems to be that someone was repairing a dresser? (front carpet pocket)

Andrew, the inside looks pretty nice! If I were you, I'd just get the red paint remnants off with lacquer thinner or acetone, and then just do general clean up and then leave it.

After getting the rust on the outside fixed and then getting the outside repainted, you can slap it all back together nicely and you'll have a sweet solid car!

Just try not to replace anything that doesn't really need replacing, and don't tear anything down that really doesn't need tearing down.

The green with the houndstooth seats is kinda making me drool...nice combo.

Check your peadle board. That is a high prone rust area...
otherwise looks great

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fritter

Andrew, the inside looks pretty nice! If I were you, I'd just get the red paint remnants off with lacquer thinner or acetone, and then just do general clean up and then leave it....Just try not to replace anything that doesn't really need replacing, and don't tear anything down that really doesn't need tearing down...

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Interior as follows:

The factory interior panels will stay. New perlon carpet. New headliner. Dash and its charcterisic crack will stay. Prob. go with a Becker Europa + iPod adapter. TRE CS2; De-badged Simpson latch harnesses. Wevo 915 shifter. ?Maybe? Perlon covered "helmet" boxes?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fritter

The green with the houndstooth seats is kinda making me drool...nice combo.

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Feeling some Vintage Seats RS and RSR in the same color combo?;

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drwhosc

Check your peadle board. That is a high prone rust area...
otherwise looks great

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Will do Thanks!

Update to come shortly.

Andrew,

Check with BeckerNA (http://www.beckerautosound.com/Classic/index.htm) and make sure your model of Europa has stereo inputs on the auxiliary plug http://www.beckerautosound.com/Class...tructions.html.

I had my mexico in for complete rebuild/repair and I asked for their ipod adapter that plugs into the back. Unfortunately, the mexico (which is a stereo/cassette head unit) has mono inputs on the rear and I wanted to use both channels. I had them install my adapter to the stereo inputs from the inside since it was apart already. They provided about 6 feet of cable with a nice plug that mounts to any flat surface. I believe the inputs they tapped into were fed by the internal cassette. A quick call to Becker will make sure of your needs.

BTW, it is a great upgrade and a cool feature. I have not upgraded the speakers yet, but the mono speaker in the dash works well for now. I plan to get the two 3 inch full range speakers that mounts into the dash. I got lots of approval from the coffee meet.

I guess it has been a little while.

After the Heater install my Father and I installed High Eff. lighting. Ya know 12 fixtures and two drop lights. :)


Opened up...


A little lead?


When you think you found it all....

I also found some nuts...


I thought I vacuumed all of these out of the trunk when I first got the E. This must be the secret stash. :eek:


You know just cut and paste...then fix the wrinkles in the repro panel, weld on some T-nuts....... :cool:



I will try to focus over the next few weeks....:o :o

Olin - how much does Becker charge for a radio rebuild?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by orange911

Andrew,

Check with BeckerNA (http://www.beckerautosound.com/Classic/index.htm) and make sure your model of Europa has stereo inputs on the auxiliary plug http://www.beckerautosound.com/Class...tructions.html.

I had my mexico in for complete rebuild/repair and I asked for their ipod adapter that plugs into the back. Unfortunately, the mexico (which is a stereo/cassette head unit) has mono inputs on the rear and I wanted to use both channels. I had them install my adapter to the stereo inputs from the inside since it was apart already. They provided about 6 feet of cable with a nice plug that mounts to any flat surface. I believe the inputs they tapped into were fed by the internal cassette. A quick call to Becker will make sure of your needs.

BTW, it is a great upgrade and a cool feature. I have not upgraded the speakers yet, but the mono speaker in the dash works well for now. I plan to get the two 3 inch full range speakers that mounts into the dash. I got lots of approval from the coffee meet.

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edmayo

Andrew, that plastic plug on the inner fender panel, next to the filler nozzle, and the incorrect vapor cannister in the fender all point to that being a Euro market car. Now that you've determined it had Euro plates in front that pretty well nails it. Of course that would explain the severe rusting problems.

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What to these Europeans do to make such rust.... :D I just keep finding it. I have to keep switching gears in order from becoming too depressed with the whole daunting task ahead.



It is nice to cut and trim out the cancer to see a fresh canvas. Please note the Stoddard replacement Dansk panels are fairly rough but also seem to be made from thicker stock than OE.

So a little filling on the fender joining panels, then some hammer and dolley work to smooth out the wrinkled edges.



The other Porsche metal that I have been test fitting fits great! I also removed the gas tank and put the E up on jack stand to remove everything else (all of it...). :eek:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 37yrold911

Olin - how much does Becker charge for a radio rebuild?

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Don't have the invoice in front of me, but I would say for the tuner adjustment and cleaning, cassette rebuild, knobs, and ipod connection, it was around $250. I was very pleased with it and it took about 2 weeks.

Andrew, that is why they make Bondo. :D

So with a full work load at work and in the garage, I hunkered down at work and most things in the garage have just been sitting collecting dust.

I decided to get a set of novelty Euro plates for car shows and such. I also with the hope that the would parts the get the ball rolling in the garage a little more.

If anyone of you is planning to jump into a project like this I recommend that you buy another 911 so you can keep driving...

Slowly still moving forward...

Lacquer thinner and some elbow grease.

Looks like Christmas in time for Thanksgiving. :)

By by PCV undercoat;


Plenty more to do but movement in the right direction! Long weekend next week maybe I can get the floor pan done too...

That's grunt work for sure man! I stripped and refinished the whole underside, wheelwells and engine bay of my '68 last winter and the winter before. I looked like a coal miner after completing a day's work.

TaDa! [more progress]

What is tada? Engine out? :D

While removing the engine I found that the evap lines were not run through the body retainers; then I got thinking would a Euro spec/ROW car even have the lines run? There are OE plastic lines through the center tunnel and an charcoal can that was in the front.

In the parts PDF there is not even a section showing the lines in the "E" PDF; The USA PDF has the whole system.

At some point my car was converted to some extent. I am looking to return this E to a psudo as delivered condtion. Help? Either the section is missing in the Euro PDF or there are no vent lines?



EURO KAT (left) USA KAT (right)



The USA PDF shows the hose that is the overflow for the brake master cyl. Would suspect it is the same for the ROW cars?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fritter

What is tada? Engine out? :D

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I guess; Some sort of progress. Over the weekend I have further removed and stored the following: heater boxes, fuel lines, fuel pump, engine sound pad, hand brake assy. , shifter, engine mounts and the rear bumper tube mounts (on the body side).

Plenty more to do;

Restoring a car is a shitload of work. Key is to keep regularly chipping away at little projects. Do something every day or two on it, no matter how small.

My 72 Euro did have the steel tubes in the tunnel for the charcoal evap system, but the ends were capped off with plastic plugs. The back of the aircleaner and the fan housing, had caps where the vent lines would have gone. My car never had any DOT done on it.

You are inspiring me ! keep up the good work. Steve

Well over the past few weekends, I have finished removing all of the items from the center tunnel; heater cables, handbrake cables, and so on. Front/Rear brakes and lines have been removed. I went to fixing a few dents in the floor pan now that the car is now off of its suspension. They just took a few hits in the right place to “go back home”. The passenger side sound deadener is toast though (any suggestions?).


I will be collecting a few other materials to make a body cart to transport the shell to the body shop. I will keep you posted; Thanks for the support.

By using a mapp torch to help loosen the PCV undercoat I am also killing the sound deadening on the floor...

Aside from floor pan cleaning; here is my take on improved rear sway bar mounts...

[Picture missing-shown fabricated sheet metal reinforcement, look similar to later factory mounts]

Still some welding to do but an improvement none the less.

Front and rear suspension out; body cart time...

The whole cart cost only $8.99...

Nicely done cart!! You should go into production.

Looks like you're making good progress Andrew!

Umm body cart to body shop...in NY :-)

Delivered and in good hands!



BTW what ever I had saved with the body cart went right towards the delivery fuel bills!

Sent it off to be converted to slant nose turbo look in guards red? :D

Caught in the paper too!

http://www.timesleader.com/hazletont...4-22-2011.html

Body Shop Report #2

Your car is moving along very well! We took out the glass (f/r) and removed the steering wheel. The drivers fender support is welded in. The bumpers, hoods and all related panels are stripper to crs. All the pieces are rewelded (repairs/splices made) and ready for prime/ bodywork. Now for the only real bad info! The drivers front fender is SOL! we need a replacement fender (OEM) so that it has a chance of fitting! They are jig welded so it should fit well just as a bolt on but it will be tweeked so that the gaps are perfecto! Get back to me with any ideas! I have no local sources.

Body shop visit and blood donation...

Alright,

From the photos above one can see some progress. There is an odd photo where I have sliced my finger open on one of the metal tab harness hangers. I took the photo to account in the blood, sweat and tears category. No tears yet though...

The glass is out, the dash is out. No "painters signature" though. One photo I forgot to take was of the beautiful re-welding of my front strut brace...OMG I just about fell over when I saw that they had fixed my mig welding sputter with perfect tig welds.

Not much progress to report on the body side.

I have switched my focus onto cleaning up the engine and fixing a few mistakes I made in my youth... :D . Mainly restoring the proper finishes and OE parts where possible.


The first task was a simple one; All replacement rotors for a '72 need a '73+ style dust cap. I never picked one up after replacing the cap and rotor years ago and just left it out...(not a great idea).

Per the service manual 911.602.947.00 was needed. A quick all to the local dealer and my dust cap was in hand for $5.

The next step was to reduce the John Deere references when opening my deck lid. So far I have found out that powder coating takes some time and chemicals to remove.


I have also picked up a set of OE Beru wires to re-install... :)

Scraped and blasted; Now soaking with Gibs every few days. Hoping to get a darker Mag finish; Any suggestions?


Also, some sheet metal progress is underway again; A driver's side outer quarter section (at the jamb seem) was ordered from Stoddard and I have been working on ordering a passenger side fender repair lower section from Wolf.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

Aside from floor pan cleaning; here is my take on improved rear sway bar mounts...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...2/cc201fa1.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...2/c93ab39d.jpg

Still some welding to do but an improvement none the less.

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Would you happen to have a template of those reinforcements you could share? I have a set of 15mm F&RARBs to install; I bought a pair of Wevo RARB consoles but didn't realize the bolt spacing was too wide for the 15mm bar bushing bracket. I've since bought the factory mounts but need to reinforce them before installation. Thanks.

Teenchy,

I don't have the templates anymore but I did talk to the body shop and they will try to trace one of them and fax/mail a templete (as long as the did not get welded on already...).

Looking good Andrew!

When I had my engine out a few years ago, I bead blasted the fan/housing to get 40 years of crud off, then I just left it as is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

Teenchy,

I don't have the templates anymore but I did talk to the body shop and they will try to trace one of them and fax/mail a templete (as long as the did not get welded on already...).

---

Thanks much! Will follow up with you via PM.

Well I got to cleaning some parts this weekend and finally disposed of the gum stuck in my knee pad (post#21) but not without a picture...

Funny how they always seem to choose to repaint red... Here's a '72E I bought in '05, and how it looked in early '07.

Hey Andrew, loooong time with no update. Progress?

Hey Jordan,

I am actually heading to the body shop at the end of the week to check in...I hope they did not forget about my 911 :-).

I have been making some progress with the parts here so that when the chassis returns I can just put on functioning parts. last week I rebuilt both of my broken window regulators with steek pivot pins. This week has gone to my Black 968...A/c compressor coil is dead...with 90-100 degree heat. I will plan a decent update by next week.

Thanks,

Well some welding and panels on...

A few more;

Visual progress update.

Your getting there. I'm in a similar position with my car, but about a year behind you. One section at a time and it will get done.

The body shop is getting ready to apply undercoating and they were curious how high on the rocker panel the coating should reach. From some photos I have found it
Looks to be about 2 or 3 inches up almost right in the center of the torsion bar cover. Does anyone have a more accurate measurement? Thank you!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

The body shop is getting ready to apply undercoating and they were curious how high on the rocker panel the coating should reach. From some photos I have found it
Looks to be about 2 or 3 inches up almost right in the center of the torsion bar cover. Does anyone have a more accurate measurement? Thank you!

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Cut this right-side one off my car chasing some rust --- imagined, as it turned-out . . .

:o

Anyway --- 'cept for paint . . . and the saw-marks . . . this is OG

HtH

Rick,

Could I further bother you for the measurement from the door jamb/ sill bend to the under coating?Attachment 254142

Thank you again,

1 inch on mine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

. . . Could I further bother you for the measurement from the door jamb/ sill bend to the under coating? . . .

---

No problem, Andrew --- I'll get that to you, this evening

Glad to help

Hey, Andrew . . .

Here's that photo

One thing . . . the texturing appears to have stages --- there's a noticeable finer-sandier-sort of roughness that begins ~1/8" below the threshold opening, that then turns into the more-obviously-pebbly schutz another 3/4" further down

Also --- FWiW . . . this is a '70 Euro-version

HTH

Thank you Rick;

Things are turning GREEN :D:D:D

The body is scheduled for undercoat/paint next week. :D :D :D

The body now back to green as it should be :D .

very sharp! looks great :)

Great progress you made on the car !! If it makes you feel any better my project got even more rust issues !! :)

Thanks! The rust is definitely behind me now.

Saw the car in person and things are progressing very well.

Very happy with the color match after perfect tinting.

Repair...what repair? Also very nice under coating line thanks to all involved!

That is going to be beautiful. Great color.

Bump-date! . . .

Wow! Going to be great. Love the color.
One point though - if you are worried about accuracy. On a 72, the wheel-wells should be black.

Cant wait to see it done Andrew

Sorry for the lack of progress here; Sad to say the focus has been elsewhere. I had been working to purchase one of the nice Repro dashes but gave up with certain sellers. Luckily there are others around.

Dave,

Thanks for the support. I am planning on masking out the wheel wells and the exposed rocker/floor pan line as seen in some of the documented original cars around here. Have no fear; thank you for the pointers. Your S may beat me to completion if I continue this lack of progress... ;-)

And we have a dash...

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...pseb310cd3.jpg

Glad to have the car back in the garage this weekend.

A huge step! Congrats/

Funny you are the first to post; I am just typing you an email on masking details I need to follow through on. Thank you:)

After I finish my impression of this guy;



I have been thinking of applying clear bra to the bumpers before building them up (trim strips/reflectors, etc); Any downsides to this?

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...293812589&rt=d

Such a nice green, I am just recalling the parts I removed many years ago looked like someone took a shotgun the the underside....



Thoughts?

Been reading into the brands of clear bra that are popular:

3m
XPEL
VentureShield


I have a friend who's daily car has an XPEL "protective film" covering and it is the most finicky thing ever, it seems to scratch with a sneeze...

Anyone with feedback on use of 3M or VentureShield?

I also just realized that I did not give the proper front shot of the car only a teaser ;)

While cleaning body shop dust I did find an original painters mark that I had not noticed before...

Dropped the door handles off to the chrome shop on Friday, they were okay as is but just okay is not where the rest of this car is ending up...

Still a bit side tracked for some reason...TN4 obsession...

The steam cleaner is one of my favorite OCD tools these days...

The heat gun also helped here on the outer edge.

Perfect...nope...protected for the road trips ahead...yep. ;)

Nice work Andrew

Quote:

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Originally Posted by classic

Nice work Andrew

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Thanks Tony;

Been working behind the scenes here, trying to prepare for getting all the locks and keys ready to go back together, fresh chrome handles would not look too good with dull cylinders. A bit of light polishing on all the locks and interior light trim.

I also was trying to rekey the ignition as it was replaced in the past and I am not looking to continue the two key ordeal...its a bit too GM for me ;). This lead me to get some new pins and springs but then find out my original worn key was too far gone to accurately rekey...so the next step was to find out my factory key code (decoded via photo by Keys4Classics in AU) and buy a code cut key. Once the code cut key arrives I will follow up on this one...

Another side project has left me fighting a few oil fittings and rebuilding my oil console, two of the mounting studs had snapped on removal and I have since them repaired at the machine shop. Then there was about two cups of mud/dirt packed in the back side of the housing...more clues to its past Rust E life and a few metal chips from the machine work in the actual housing. Aside from the cleaning I am planning an additional oil cooler so an additional thermostat has been acquired and is also being rebuilt.

Nice to see my oil line to the tank had been replaced in the past... 10/76

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps5t2qlert.jpg

I am still working to clean the interior of body shop dust, Any tips? I have vacuumed, wiped with a damp rags, blown with air compressor and some spot steam cleaning. It is improved just tedious.

Standard parts have been arriving...but this part gets the blood flowing...

The past few weeks have yielded some small successes;

-My code-cut key from AU, allowed me to re-key my ignition.

-My chrome has returned from the chrome shop and I was able to reassemble the rings/reflectors of the TN4s.

-One of our generous Members was able to gather a bit more information from my Kardex than I was previously given and revealed that my car was delivered new to the dealer in Frankfurt/ Main Otto Glöckler (114).


Now this helps a lot but there are still questions ;)

Ownership History as I know it:

Purchased by My Father in May 2003 From a gentleman in Tionesta, PA.

This gentleman stated that he had seen the 911E for sale while traveling to Pittsburgh, PA to pick up a Ferrari 308 for/with his brother in the mid (to late) 90's.

The (suspected) first owner was said to be a doctor, though I have not been able to gather any further details since the recent information has the delivering dealer in Frankfurt, Germany.

Some trim has arrived to brighten my day :o

Good work Andrew. Car looks great. You should ask to have this moved to the General Info section to get more eyes on the thread and your progress.

Thanks Scott! Missed you at RA last month, hope all is well.

If this thread gets moved to the General Info section I may be held even more accountable for updates :D

A small success is still success...

Been ordering parts with anticipation, one of the last big glass parts showed up this week...

Great work Andrew, your attention to detail is going to pay off with one very nice car.

Hershey was a fun experience and I was able to get a handful of items that I needed for my E; the first was a restorable left hand tail light housing. My original housings were severely corroded, cracked and not in a condition that I could consider restorable. In the past few years of parts hording I ended up having an abundance of right hand housings but never a left. That is now fixed and I have been working on restoring three housings (I know, why three?). I had disassembled the housings, glass beaded them, fixed a few pin holes/ small corrosion damage with some good old JB weld. It seems a bit shoddy but at the end of the day, with a bit of sanding the results are adequate (especially considering the Porsche Classic assemblies are $500+).


One of the other parts I was able to find at Hershey was a driver’s side door latch; mine somehow went missing…I have an odd question regarding the difference in lock function. I recall a section in the owner’s manual that talks of how the driver’s side door could only be locked from the outside with the key. In the past I remember never having to follow this rule and could use the door lock knob regardless. In the recent latch I have picked up, it seems as though it operates as the note in the owner’s manual states. Locking is only allowed via the door handle/key. Does this resonate with anyone or am I just too deep into this one?

Here is a picture of the tail light housing JB weld repair pre-paint.

Also this is the note in the owners/drivers manual that always confused me not sure it is too relevant but for some reason I thought the door latch may influence this.

Lastly, I had started cleaning up the front suspension which caused me to stumble upon torsion bar carnage...luckily this bar was used in all later 911s till '89. So some good bars and new bushings should sort this out...just another step...

I side tracked my self on the 911E a little bit; My car has always had a [Euro] Blaupunkt Emden "b" in it. Now this is a VW radio with a VW part number on it. At first my impressions were that it was the incorrect radio for my car and that I should replace it. However my understanding is that most (if not all) radios were dealer installed. If you were at a VW/Porsche dealer maybe you are buying a low option "E" and want a radio but are a bit price conscious? I would bet that this could have happened, so in the spirit of cheapness for all parties :D I will keep the Emden until factually proven otherwise.

That being said, the VW embossed knobs are to be replaced by a set of NOS plain Blaupunkt knobs and through some searching I have made up an aux input adapter for the future freeway motoring. I did end up with some spare DIN plugs after finding out how tricky they are to solder and melting a few, I put some pig tails on the extra plugs. If any local Registry folks need a Blaupunkt mono adapter plug just PM; the parts to complete the adapter cost maybe $4 from your local radio shack.

Andrew
I run Venture Film on the front of my racer, it is unmarked after 2 years of track time and it takes a pounding, I also have VF on the front of my road car it to is unmarked and has just a hint of opaqueness 10 years after fitting.
HTH

Thanks for the feedback Craig;

What happens when you try to take it off?
Also dirt starts to accumulate along the edges, reminds me of how people used to vinyl wrap their furniture.

David,

Your concerns are on removal are valid; it is not if you remove but when; it seems the materials and adhesives have improved a lot for these clear films but there is a life to them. When this time comes I hope Larry is still around...

It seems there is a technique to wrapping the edges when applying the film to ensure adhesion and the film does not lift later. I have only applied this to partial panels on one of my other cars and there is no contamination at the edges.

I was also surprised to learn that one can "buff" many of the clear film products when they get scratched/stuffed or hazy. I am not trying to get to crazy with this, just trying to protect some "green" while also not worrying too much about "road rash"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MoparBoy72

As one thing leads to another... I was just going to take a look at my taillights...

With school out of the way I can jump into this with some funds in hand. This is very exciting for me as it has been one of my sore spots for a long time...

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It has only been nine years since starting this thread/endeavor, progress has slowed a bit as life and other projects get in the way...I did have to shuffle the garage a bit this fall, it was nice to remove the cover. Maybe one day soon I will get my priority's in order. :o

Thanks for the continued support via this board and especially the Midwest crew.

First photo is me setting the ignition timing circa 2005; The second photo is somewhat current.

Patience is a virtue. Family is most important and cars will follow. Enjoy the road.

Thanks Mark ;)

I had some time after the Thanksgiving holiday and set out to remake a set of oil tank buffers (911.207.307.00) on my 3d printer for the "E". Another Early S member had made some but I could not find the thread. This was a nice project to try and get the ball rolling again. After a few tweaks these printed out reasonably well and I was able to cross one small item off my list.

:D

New year with new goals. I have two goals, the goal to actually begin reassembly and the goal to complete assembly. My living room will thank me.

Progress on the first goal:

Another cleaning of body shop dust. Fixed the dash vinyl with a little contact adhesive. I did some light touch up on the door black out masking in the upper lock area where the original had been masked. I cleaned up the driver’s side foot well, a light surface rust was present from the master cylinder failing (you know over ten years ago). Scuffed and painted with a POR15 like product.

As I have been cleaning I have noticed green overspray on some rubber trim. Leading me to believe that early in its life there was some kind of repair, maybe a low speed parking lot event. There is no green overspray on the makeshift fuel vapor tank (74+ type) in the left wheel well but there is red overspray on it. In addition one of the banjo horns in missing with the wiring harness just hung bare. Not to mention the front bumper trim being changed out to the larger “S” type trim. I am still trying to put these clues together.

There is red overspray certainly a chore to clean off parts. I have been working to clean and reuse as many original parts as possible. I was able to refit the smugglers box lid after spending about an hour cleaning the red paint out of the multiple folds in the lids’ seal. I was quite surprised at the resiliency of the seal. My main tools for this were a plastic razor blade and some 3M adhesive remover where needed.

I do enjoy finding all of the date codes on the original parts which seem to mostly be 3.72 for a 4.72 built chassis.

My next steps are some masking/painting the interior for the black out paint at the seat rails and center tunnel. Once this is done I will need to plan for the chassis black out. I have seen many different takes on this and luckily one a “sister” car to mine was at auction on BaT (9112200726 and there were a significant amount photos taken. I have used these along with many others I had collected over the years to work on formulating a plan on what to paint and where (chassis wise).

PS- As time allows I plan to fix some of the older linked files which had been hosted elsewhere to be hosted on this site.

Lots of cleaning over the past few weeks. It is amazing where over spray can reach. I have been reviewing a few small detail parts which I had removed and was curious about their originality.

(photos are seemingly in a mixed order)

#1

Strips of black fiber board under the batteries, these were under each battery, like little skids.

#2

Fabric (maybe nylon) tape on the sheet metal of the fresh air vent, possibly masking the opening to be black or maybe helping seal the opening somehow. My reference photo shows that this tape had red over spray on it meaning it was on my car for a good period of time.

#2a

Looking at an older parts diagram I noticed that there is a "spacer" (901-559-491-20) called out in the area of the fresh air vent. this looks to support the grille mesh in the center points. I found a seller online who looks to sell a modern version, this looks to just be a piece of black foam. If so does anyone have the dimensions or a photos showing the original in place?

Thank you,

-Andrew

It has been nice to dig through a number of the threads on this board and research a number of the details I still need to iron out.

Lots of cleaning still taking place, the amount of patience it takes to clean old red paint off of plastic parts and the wiring harness is just immense.

I fixed a number of the photos in the beginning of the thread until I reached a point where the linked file names were altered and enumerated such that I have to match the photo and not the name...a fun game.

Last week's questions #2 and #2a were answered by the board in a thread here.

Throughout this week I have been trying to figure out if there were ever body plugs in the rear gas tank support bracket/braces or front pan legs (adjacent to battery boxes). The RH rear tank brace would be where the fuel line for a Webasto heater would route through; the upper sheet metal has a body plug (next to VIN stamp)...so why not the lower? Well after finding out that 18mm plug (999.703.057.40) was NLA, I made a CAD model of one I had and printed out a few (via the 3D printer, have I told you all how awesome this is :D ). The gas tank support holes are two different sizes, so I adjusted my CAD model slightly and made a plug for each tank support so I could sleep.

I have been a bit deficient on keeping things updated but I have been moving forward on reassembly. Not in a "hurry up and get it done" way but slow and methodical. I was able to refit most of the interior sound deadening for the rear wheel housings but the rear interior foam section was toast. I made a template of the original as best I could and made a replacement from standard 1/4" upholstery foam.

The engine sound pad was a bit of a project in and of itself, I posted the details on another thread (here);

Right now I have been painting the chassis and fixing a few undercoating spots that did not blend very well. I am not sure what kind of application gun was used by the factory but the orifice must have been huge. I am using a Wurth applicator just about fully open just to get it to look "close". Then again the materials are different as well (PVC v. SKS).

A few progress updates, Floor pan/rocker black masking is complete, I have just about wrapped up cleaning the front harness and spent about five hours yesterday cleaning and fixing the rear harness.

The old sheathing had fallen apart and with a few tugs it came apart. I recalled and note from Ed Mayo citing that a bicycle tube worked for this purpose...so I had one that I was saving for this along with a clear but aged T&B zip tie (Ty Rap). This worked out quite well as the inner tube was lined with talc or a mild release agent, this gave reasonable lubrication over the snug sections (connector ends). I thought the section over the torsion tube would be the hardest but it was rather simple.

I also learned if you don't mask it yourself, it will get painted at the body shop. I think part of my starter cable will stay green for now...

Looking good!

Bumpity Bump