110 Ltr Racing Fuel Tank....
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Darren65
.....as it will have many out and out racing parts.....
....one of which being a 110 Litre Racing Plastic Fuel Tank.....
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....looking well used this one has I'm told an interesting African racing past....it may look a little tired but this tank is in great order and will clean and refurbish wonderfully. Huge thanks to a fellow enthusiast for allowing me the opportunity :) ....
....my understanding is that plastic tanks weren't legal in the UK and why the cars came with standard steel tanks, although the racing tanks were certainly an option elsewhere and certainly fitted. This original item has a well matched date stamp....
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....collected today I couldn't wait to see it in situ :cool: ....
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...still a marathon list of parts to go but at least it's one item shorter! :)
Cheers,
Butt that's horrible!.......
To Butt or to Lap Weld???
I visited Barry Carter this week to catch up on progress and discuss the RS modifications he'll be carrying out.....when it came to how the arches are to be fitted it caused him a huge degree of angst! :(....
.....from what I've seen the arches on these cars were fitted using a very crude lap weld....simple, quick and effective although pretty ugly. Barry's standards are a few notches higher and he would rather a far neater butt weld.
Despite Barry's pleas I'll be sticking with the factory method unless anyone can show me it was done another way?.....
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Cheers,
Centre Tunnel Strengthening....
.....so now the fun starts and first the RS centre tunnel strengthening :cool: .....in Barry's words....
......This takes some explaining.
As supplied, the piece is too long, has no details as to how to scribe into the tube, or where to place the edge bends.
We needed to remove the existing impact bumper reinforcements.
The RS reinforcement (RS r.) sits directly on top of the tunnel, not the raised flange behind it. Therefore to be able to attach the RS, you need to remove a section of bulkhead plus the raised portion right at the end of the tunnel.
This then leaves the tunnel main pressing and end plate detached from each other, so these need tidying from the drilling out and welding together.
You then have to template a card version of the RS r. so that it fits in the correct place on top of the tunnel, meets the tube correctly and has the information needed to create the end bends.
With the new RS r. prepped, it can be welded in.
Then the portion of removed bulkhead has the thickness of the RS r. subtracted from its base and the remains of the original reinforcements removed.
This is then welded into place and also welded to the RS r..
The whole area is tidied.
Later the underside of the area will be checked and welded where required.......
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Short Trailing Arms Brackets....
After the centre tunnel mod Barry moved on to the brackets for the short trailing arms which Marek Lappock supplied.......as far as how you fit these correctly with the car pointing in the right direction when fitted up my contribution was little more than to supply Barry with a copy of Bruce Anderserson's Performance Handbook which highlights a few basic dimensions......
.....for what is ultimately a few minutes of welding the brackets in place, exactly where is a whole different science! Again I'll let Barry explain.....
Using the info from the Anderson book and confirmed by Josh (via Gary) and Ben, I made up a little jig using the milling machine as a plotter.
I keep an engineer’s level at work, and used this to ensure my jig was kept level relative to the Celette. It’s more than accurate enough for the job.
I couldn’t remember if the forward adjustment on the spring plates also had an element of eccentric adjustment so didn’t dare not look at these. The bolts were stuck solid and took an awful lot of shifting. As it happens, it turned out there wasn’t an eccentric element anyway! Nevertheless to be able to have everything on the rear end in the middle of the adjustment travels during set-up was very useful. It meant I could aim to leave you with maximum adjustment in all planes from the start, rather than kicking off with one or more adjusters near their limits.......
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Lollipop, Lollipop oh Lolly Lolly Lolly....
I've been incredibly lucky with this build regarding the acquiring of original parts......fat grip steering wheel, 110L fuel tank, prototype Whale Tail etc.....and I've not really been looking!
No sooner had I started to think about seats when these beauties passed my way....
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.....genuine 1974 Lollipops first fitted to a RS lightweight back in 74, removed in circa 2005 when the car was sold and returned to original specification at which point they were purchased by a friend who used them for competition in his ST for a few years and then put in storage waiting for me! :)......
....I've not decided if I'll fit both or just the driver with an RS passenger.....regarding seat rails I'd appreciate some feedback on original fitment.....
....what would have been original fixings and are these rails original?
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Cheers,
I should be so lucky.....lucky, lucky, lucky....
Another piece of good fortune came my way today when I collected a rare right side door mirror.......never available in the UK and only ever fitted to Australian 74-77 Carreras along with the 6 RHD drive 3.0RS cars, I feared it might be a part that would elude me for many years......pure chance led me to a local Porsche parts dealer when trying to help someone find a rare RS item....although the dealer has two of these NOS RS parts, these are being kept for his own projects however when I mentioned the door mirror he thought he might be able to help and sent me this photo the following day.....
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.....and collected this morning at a very fair price :) ....
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....the mirror will need to be stripped and coated black but it's the exact part I needed....if I hadn't been asked to help with the RS parts there's no way I would have attempted to find this locally....
....super lucky indeed and one I thought I'd struggle to find on the other side of the world let alone one that was being kept safe for me only 40 minutes from home! :cool:
Happy Days :)
Cheers,
Houston we have a problem!....
The same.....jut different....
......although they all have that distinctive eyebrow curve, the variances in the shape of the flares on the original 3.0RS's is amazing but guess that's what to expect on hand built race cars :cool: ....
....of course it's hard to know exactly what's original on cars approaching 50-years old although there's enough early reference photos around to have a clear idea of how they should look....
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.....I'm really happy with the arches supplied by Marek Lappock ( early911parts ) and how the shell is looking and even the metal meister Barry Carter who fitted these rated them as just perfect....cheers Marek :) :cool:
Cheers,
Gun Blue....Black Anodising
I've recently acquired some black anodised door frames, handles and rear trim which have a lovely patina.....the door handles are great although the frames maybe a touch too light especially on one frame in particular.
I'm keen to retain a faded look and don't want to go down the route of fresh anodising.......has anyone tried Gun Blue on anodised frames?
It would appear you might be able to build up the colour without making it too dark?
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I appreciate your feed back.
Cheers,