Turn Signal / Flasher Issue

I've been searching and can't find a solution for my issue described below. I'll try to break it down as simply as I can.
Car is a US spec '73

My passenger side signal lamp is having issues. When I pull the light switch to the parking position, both bulbs in the housing come on with the bright signal bulb filament lit in the larger bulb.
If I turn OFF the parking light and activate the emergency flasher, all 4 corners flash but the passenger front is dim compared to the others. Seems to be using the smaller filament.
If I turn ON the parking lights and activate the emergency flasher 3 corners flash but the passenger side front stays constant (no flashing)
When using the turn signal stalk, signaling starts off (dim) then relay gets quiet and both indicators on tach start dimly flashing together.

I've cleaned all of the signal sockets
I'm using known good, new incandescent (Audette) bulbs
I've cleaned and checked all ground connections for the front signal buckets.

So... what could it be? Is it possible that a bad relay would affect only one signal bulb?

Any and all ideas appreciated. I've been chasing this for a while and it's pretty frustrating.
THANKS!

Review both ends of the ground connections for all the passenger's side front lamps. Even connect an additional temporary "jumper" ground wire to help pinpoint the fault.

Thanks. Yes, I did exactly that and the ground was good.

I can add that the light will work correctly if I hold it lightly in the socket, but stops flashing and gets very bright as soon as I push it in and rotate to lock.

Kent I had also this contact problem last Saturday and I bend the two connectors of the spades In the housing for the mentioned bulb more into driving direction and it worked. The connection of the bulb to the housing and the spades/socket might be not good.

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Originally Posted by kentf14

I can add that the light will work correctly if I hold it lightly in the socket, but stops flashing and gets very bright as soon as I push it in and rotate to lock.

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Important information omitted from the initial post as it does seem to localize the problem.

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Originally Posted by ejboyd5

Important information omitted from the initial post as it does seem to localize the problem.

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But any idea as to what that means?

Hi Kent- I used a hemostat (narrow nose with ridge grip) to gently pull the bulb contact(s) to increase tension. Seemed to work well in holding the bulb(s) more securely. Obviously one doesn't want to have power going the lamp(s) to avoid shorts.

Thanks Jeff! The passenger side socket is significantly tighter than the drivers side. My plan for today is to pull the drivers side housing and try to re-tension the contacts. Maybe a weak connection on this side is causing the issue?
Getting enough slack in the wiring is the big pain right now. Not a lot of room to get one's hands in behind w a screwdriver.
Hard to believe this is turning into a multiple day project :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Haasman

Hi Kent- I used a hemostat (narrow nose with ridge grip) to gently pull the bulb contact(s) to increase tension. Seemed to work well in holding the bulb(s) more securely. Obviously one doesn't want to have power going the lamp(s) to avoid shorts.

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Just use a 90 degree dental pick; pull through the opening for easy tensioning of the contacts. Do this with the battery disconnected. Insert vertically then rotate 90 and pull on the contact.

and I should add that over the years with messing with these car's bulbs, I found not all of outside barrel dimensions are equal.

I have also very, very gently tried to close the ground outside to ensure good fit.

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Just use a 90 degree dental pick; pull through the opening for easy tensioning of the contacts. Do this with the battery disconnected. Insert vertically then rotate 90 and pull on the contact.

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Good suugestions

OK, so I've re-confirmed that both front housings are nice and grounded and re-tensioned the contacts for the DS flasher bulb. Fuses and fuse contact all good. No change.
This is what I'm seeing.

Light switch in "parking light position"
PS constant bright
DS constant dim

Activate flasher with light switch in "parking light position"
PS constant bright
DS flashes bright

Activate flasher with light switch in "off" position
PS flashes dim
DS flashes bright

Could there be an issue w the wiring? The discrepancy and change between bright and dim seems strange. Almost seems like in the "parking light" position the PS bulb should be dim like the DS?
Also, what about a bad relay contributing? I've studied the wiring diagram and it would seem that the front circuit is all off the same relay terminal, but I could be wrong. Also, the rears have no issues.

well this is getting interesting-

-Question what is the difference between "parking light position" and "parking position"

Same thing typo corrected.

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Originally Posted by Haasman

well this is getting interesting-

-Question what is the difference between "parking light position" and "parking position"

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I continue to be curious about this- anyone?

You need to have a 12v test light, and approach this in a logical manner, shot gunning won't work. Turn on park lights, start at fuse box with test light, do both park light circuits light up test light, if so go to bulkhead plug on fender panel, pull out plug, test pin sockets, does one light up with park lights on? if so go to park light housing, does one of the tabs in the bulb socket light up? if so then bulbs should work. If bulb is loose in socket use age old trick of putting a little solder on the bulb shell and then file for tight fit. Turn off park lights and repeat with turn signal on. It is extremely unlikely to have an actual wiring problem, usually problem is at one end of circuit. Has car been to a body shop recently? That's usually the root of a problem.

By "parking light" are we referring to those lamps activated by pulling the headlight switch out to its first detent, or those activated by moving the turn signal stalk up or down while the ignition switch is in the off position?

Thanks for the advice Ed.
I'm still puzzled and am going to try tracing. Ive been using a volt meter in place of a test lamp. This should work as well as a bulb correct? Big question that would be helpful is a pin diagram for the plug on the bulkhead. I want to test that, but don't know the pin designations.

I took a break on this for a few days out of frustration, but really want to sort it out.

-Kent

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Originally Posted by edmayo

You need to have a 12v test light, and approach this in a logical manner, shot gunning won't work. Turn on park lights, start at fuse box with test light, do both park light circuits light up test light, if so go to bulkhead plug on fender panel, pull out plug, test pin sockets, does one light up with park lights on? if so go to park light housing, does one of the tabs in the bulb socket light up? if so then bulbs should work. If bulb is loose in socket use age old trick of putting a little solder on the bulb shell and then file for tight fit. Turn off park lights and repeat with turn signal on. It is extremely unlikely to have an actual wiring problem, usually problem is at one end of circuit. Has car been to a body shop recently? That's usually the root of a problem.

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Pulling th headlight switch to the first detent.

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Originally Posted by ejboyd5

By "parking light" are we referring to those lamps activated by pulling the headlight switch out to its first detent, or those activated by moving the turn signal stalk up or down while the ignition switch is in the off position?

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Yo Kent - were you able to figure it out?