Strongest capacity hood struts?

Hi .. does anyone know of a hood strut that has more capacity than the ones in our part number?

My hood has has some composite filler added to it before painting, to aid with gap fit etc, so the hood is much heavier then normal. The standard Stabilus hood struts won't hold it up. I have tried the Stabilus struts for the 959, in that part number, which feature a lockout at the top, which held the hood, but after a few years even those gave out to the weight of my hood and couldn't hold it up anymore. By the way, those 959 hood struts were almost $100 bucks a side. They works great at the start, but didn't last.


Seems like Stabulis is the main producer of these and I just need to find one with the right length, mounting hole size, and weight capacity.

Any Stabilus experts out there?

https://www.stabilus.com/products/locking-gas-springs

Many thanks in advance

I went with the Rennline mechanical struts, no more replacing struts for me.

https://www.rennline.com/rennline-fu...trut-sku-e187/

Broom stick works good, and doesn't wear out.

I went Rennline also. They work great.

I found that the Stabilus HD hood shocks worked well on my '70E.

Thanks ! I'm sold on those Rennline struts .. look awesome.

Rennline work great - but need to warn anyone not familiar with your car to be careful closing the hood or decklid. Kinda like the issues 356's had back in the day with mechanics bending the hoods. I love mine, but am worried with anyone opening/closing it as the decklid is aluminum.

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Originally Posted by tcave

Broom stick works good, and doesn't wear out.

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Hahaha!!! :) I have an alloy telescopic "stick" I use. Has a set screw to bind it and rubber bumpers on each end.

I bought the hood shocks and did not have much luck. I know my hood has a few coats of paint on it. But what puzzled me was the weakness and distortion the hood shocks caused the hinges to deform. So I took them off.

Yep, high tech broom stick works for me. ;)

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Originally Posted by dummkopf

Hahaha!!! :) I have an alloy telescopic "stick" I use. Has a set screw to bind it and rubber bumpers on each end.

I bought the hood shocks and did not have much luck. I know my hood has a few coats of paint on it. But what puzzled me was the weakness and distortion the hood shocks caused the hinges to deform. So I took them off.

Yep, high tech broom stick works for me. ;)

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Regarding distortion of hinges, I'm restoring a 66 911, after paint got the hood to line up perfectly with the cowl, then installed the shocks only to have the hood stand tall (above the cowl) about 3-4 MM. Removed the shocks and the hood goes back to flush. Has anyone else had this issue? The hinges are used but there's virtually no play in the hinge pivots - certainly not 3-4 MM. The hole that accepts the pin to keep the top shock mount captive is worn (elongated slightly) on both hinges but I can't see where that would cause it unless I'm missing something.

I used Rennline only on the drivers side that requires tiny hands to install. Works fine. You have to lift the hood slightly to dis-engage the shock before you can close the hood.

I too used the Rennline on one side, and it worked great holding up my heavy hood + Cibie hood lights. However, I lived in fear of someone, somewhere, sometime pushing it down improperly and 356-ing the hood. I went to stock and added this simple, removable hood support. I forget where I got it (not eBay), but it works for me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324259933844

I'd encourage getting the correct(ish) hood support:

https://www.fvd.net/us-en/FVD511RSKI...pport-kit.html

I've used the long ones and found that the "correct" hood support works better because it locks into the shock towers.

do they make these types of 'pole' supports for decklids too?

I like that RS style but wasn't willing to drill holes in my hood for this. That's why I went for the bolt on one. I added a (removable) plastic "cup" to the hood to keep the pole from sliding. No issues, no drilling, nothing permanent.
Found the original place I bought it: https://www.tiporscheproducts.com/pr...fiber-prop-rod

Per Bill's question: probably no reason you couldn't modify a hood one for the engine lid, if you get creative with the mount.

Guy on the Bird selling a carbon hood support...fabulous. Never buying crappy hood struts again. Someone can provide the link?

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Originally Posted by TheTorch

I like that RS style but wasn't willing to drill holes in my hood for this. That's why I went for the bolt on one. I added a (removable) plastic "cup" to the hood to keep the pole from sliding. No issues, no drilling, nothing permanent.
Found the original place I bought it: https://www.tiporscheproducts.com/pr...fiber-prop-rod

Per Bill's question: probably no reason you couldn't modify a hood one for the engine lid, if you get creative with the mount.

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awesome - i just bought one. i need to figure out the decklid. the Rennline mechanical strut works great (no longer pushing the corner of the lid up/distorting the fitment), but I continue to be worried about someone damaging the lid not knowing how to close it. Even last week at Ed Pink's, the guys told me to put a warning sticker on there somewhere, as they could have easily tweaked the lid by forcing it closed (it is aluminum).

Hi John,

I'm having the same problem with the new URO shocks I bought. Holds back of hood up a couple of mm. Put the sacked out originals back in and while they do not support the hood, the back of the hood is flush as it should be.
URO shocks seem to have way too much force, tired originals not functional. What was your solution?

Mark Peyser
Easton, CT

Same issue. Installed redlines. Problem solved Front hood only.

Thanks. Will give it a try.

I don’t really know. So it’s more of a question.

If strong hood struts are causing hood alignment problems it sounds to me that your hood hinges might have more slop or play than normal. Shouldn’t we consider why the hood alignment issue is occurring besides the strong hood strut showing up as an alignment problem?

I use the Stabilus HD 430nm ones and just replace when they go bad. They all suck when it's really cold. I've used Rennline one time on an aluminum hood and it stresses me out all the time because I know someone is going to force close the hood and it will all go bad. When you take the car to a shop for work you need to tape a warning sign on the hood and instructions on how to operate.

Thanks for your responses. Hood hinges are pretty tight, very little compliance.
The 2 solutions I am considering are:
1. Cheat the hinges down so edge is slightly sub-flush w/o struts and depend on strut force to push it into position. The alignment and gaps are very good now; also could change as struts lose force over time.
2. Rennline struts - zero force when closed
Will discuss both approaches with friend who owns car.
Thanks again

When we are putting the hoods on the cars after paint we always use new hood struts in place to get the hight and gaps correct. I can't use them on the aluminum hood as they push it too high in the corners.

I found the Meyle ones made in Germany are good. Not too powerful to push the hood up when closed yet strong enough to keep the hood open. And not silly money either.

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Originally Posted by 1969911T

I used Rennline only on the drivers side that requires tiny hands to install. Works fine. You have to lift the hood slightly to dis-engage the shock before you can close the hood.

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If Rennline were contacted to offer a version without the added stage in the strut to relieve it, that could help reduce the concern.

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Originally Posted by mspeyser

Hi John,

I'm having the same problem with the new URO shocks I bought. Holds back of hood up a couple of mm. Put the sacked out originals back in and while they do not support the hood, the back of the hood is flush as it should be.
URO shocks seem to have way too much force, tired originals not functional. What was your solution?

Mark Peyser
Easton, CT

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Sounds like others are having this same problem. I'm assuming original hinge pivots wear out over time. Even though play is minimal, it's enough to push hood up at the back, raising it above the cowl. I tried cheating hood downward, but wasn't enough. They obviously didn't have this problem when cars left the factory 50+ years ago. I'm trying new hinges in hopes of keeping original setup. Will let you know how it works out.

Gaps so good now I hate to mess with it. Will probably go with the Rennline struts. Where in CT are you?

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Originally Posted by 911GP

I found the Meyle ones made in Germany are good. Not too powerful to push the hood up when closed yet strong enough to keep the hood open. And not silly money either.

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Where did you find those?

Thanks,
John

Here's one source I found:

https://356devotion.com/porsche-hood...-duty-911-912/

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Originally Posted by John912

Here's one source I found:

https://356devotion.com/porsche-hood...-duty-911-912/

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Thanks John!

John

"rates 430 on the Newton Meter" Sounds heavy duty to me. I'd like to know if the force acting on the pivot is pushing up the hood, or is the shock pressure distorting the arm, or both. I'm getting and will install Porsche OEM replacements to see if that solves the issue. Maybe the shocks have gotten more powerful over the years.....

Best I can tell the URO's are 370/430N for std./heavy duty respectively. If I understand the Rennline's function correctly, force = 0 when hood is closed and they mechanically lock to react the force of the hood when up. AH's, MG's have similar setup (not sure I'm allowed to mention those marques on this forum!) and they work perfectly well. Seems like a more robust albeit costlier solution.

seems to me, these are all band-aid fixes, if the hinges have enough wear that the hood alignment at the cowl changes whether you have new hood struts or old/weak hood struts, the problem is the hinge is worn. Have you checked that the 3 bolts that are holding the hinge to the chassis are tight?

All good. Hinges have no play, bolts tight. Based on what was said earlier in thread it makes sense to set gaps with struts in, which of course I did not do. At this point I'm leaning towards spending the extra $$ and going with the Rennline's. Thanks to all for for the discussion.

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Originally Posted by John912

"rates 430 on the Newton Meter" Sounds heavy duty to me. I'd like to know if the force acting on the pivot is pushing up the hood, or is the shock pressure distorting the arm, or both. I'm getting and will install Porsche OEM replacements to see if that solves the issue. Maybe the shocks have gotten more powerful over the years.....

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I am going to look at mine. I installed new German shocks and they would not hold it up. And the hinges deflected, especially when you were closing it, so I went back to my telescoping aluminum tube with cane rubber feet on each end.

So I am assuming too much body filler and too many coats of paint. Not sure if I have slack in the hinges, but I will check. All the hardware is tight.

mspeyser, let us know what you come up with!

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Originally Posted by John Straub

Where did you find those?

Thanks,
John

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Hi John,
I bought mine on eBay here in the UK but I think they were posted from Germany. John912’s link is probably your best bet for the US.
I’ve had them for a few years and no issues so far but I rarely open the hood.

Kind regards
Gitesh

I used 959 hood supports, and got about 5 years out of them. They are unique in they only have pressure in the upper half of operation. At about 1/2 the way down, the hood drops like a rock and they have no pressure in the closed position, so no alignment problems when closed. Don’t know how they accomplish this operation. No answer at Porsche parts this AM, So don’t know availability or price but 959 511 333 00 is a # I have. I went back to regular ones, got a few years, need to replace again.

Carbon Fiber Hood Props are presently featured at the AC SHOP as a 4D Daily Deep Discount Deal:

Attachment 590344

Product Page

John

Had a similar problem when fitting new hood struts to my friend’s 911.
Issue seems to be that the new strut itself is too long. Was a struggle to attach both ends easily.
Shortened the shaft by 6mm, problem solved and sliding pivots pins in at both ends was a breeze. Didn’t affect operation, hood will hold in any position.
Stands to reason that if the struts is too long, then in the fully closed position, it will bottom out and lever up the back edge creating misalignment.
If I can find my original factory fitted strut from 72, I could compare the length with the “modern” replacement.

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Originally Posted by jaudette3

Carbon Fiber Hood Props are presently featured at the AC SHOP as a 4D Daily Deep Discount Deal:

Attachment 590344

Product Page

John

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Do these hold up a longhood steel hood easily or are they designed for fiber hoods?

They're fine for steel hoods due to the strength of carbon fiber.

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Originally Posted by John912

"rates 430 on the Newton Meter" Sounds heavy duty to me. I'd like to know if the force acting on the pivot is pushing up the hood, or is the shock pressure distorting the arm, or both. I'm getting and will install Porsche OEM replacements to see if that solves the issue. Maybe the shocks have gotten more powerful over the years.....

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Update: I replaced each hinge with OEM replacements from Porsche -- problem solved, now the hood does not stand taller that cowl with shocks installed. Someone thought that today's shocks are longer and could be bottoming out, but that's not the case. I guess wear in the hinge pivots and fatigued arms are the cause.

Wow. Awesome.

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Originally Posted by jaudette3

Carbon Fiber Hood Props are presently featured at the AC SHOP as a 4D Daily Deep Discount Deal:

Attachment 590344

Product Page

John

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Hi John,

Not to be an arse or anything, but... This is one of the more expensive ones. Mine came with an old boat cover. It has a thumb knob to set the height. The only thing is it is conductive. Not sure about this one, but it is surly light enough at 1.68 pounds. I bet mind will rival that!

23 1/8" collapsed, 50 5/8" extended.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...7B8TRIYM&psc=1

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Originally Posted by John912

Update: I replaced each hinge with OEM replacements from Porsche -- problem solved, now the hood does not stand taller that cowl with shocks installed. Someone thought that today's shocks are longer and could be bottoming out, but that's not the case. I guess wear in the hinge pivots and fatigued arms are the cause.

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Thank you for the info! So how much does a hood weigh? Say with the correct amount of paint? I need to go ahead and pull mine off and strip it. I know it has some filler on the leading edge and several coats of paint.

So you sources new hinges? Or had the old ones refurbished?

As mentioned earlier, I use the Rennline one's that work like the 356 hood struts, and love them. My hood is steel and they have no issues holding the hood up. If the hood is up, I'm near the car and it's hands off to the people checking out the car. I've had them for a few years.

Paul
Checked out the hood strut mentioned …certainly no offense but its butt ugly

I had Rennline mechanical hood shocks on my 70E. After how scary it was watching a mechanic try to shut the bonnet (even after warning the shop), I wouldn’t risk it again.

as i was building my car
I experimented with the stabilus hood shocks
they offer a regular and heavy
the heavy settles the hood higher on the cowl than the regular

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Originally Posted by Chris Pomares

As mentioned earlier, I use the Rennline one's that work like the 356 hood struts, and love them. My hood is steel and they have no issues holding the hood up. If the hood is up, I'm near the car and it's hands off to the people checking out the car. I've had them for a few years.

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Hi Chris,
Just curious- is that a dual oil cooler setup.
Regards,
Bil

Yes. Those are from Elephant Racing.

I moved away from the Rennline strut due to potential damage concerns already discussed. I went with the carbon fiber pole that John Audette listed in this thread. I would like something like this to prop open my aluminum decklid. Here are a couple photos of my car with this product installed. My car is a hotrod, so I like this concept for my car. I will say that the hood is fairly heavy when holding open without the traditional struts - particularly when I hold my hood open to plug in my battery tender (without using the pole to support the hood while I plug in). No drilling required to install this pole.

Attachment 611085
Attachment 611086

I suppose if the hood got bent, that would be an excuse to go with an Aluminum, fiberglass, or carbon with stock struts. Setbacks create opportunities.
If my 616 engine had not needed a rebuild, I would never have experienced the POLO.

After being happy with the TI Porsche Products carbon fiber prop rod/pole for the front hood, I purchased the same product to replace the Rennline strut on my aluminum Decklid. No more worrying about a damaged/bent decklid. Two other advantages to this pole — it opens the decklid much further and it is less than half the weight of the Rennline strut.

Here is a photo showing how far the Rennline strut held the decklid open

Attachment 611983

Here is a photo showing how much further the prop rod holds the decklid open

Attachment 611984

Couple photos showing the product

Attachment 611985

Attachment 611986

More than one 356 hood was bent by someone not paying attention OR not know how the mechanism works. (I even heard of a judge doing it):mad:
I'd never use a mechanical hood strut. I'd rather use a cut down broom handle.:rolleyes:


Another thread.

https://www.early911sregistry.org/fo...=1#post1174266

Long ago our 356 hood was bent by a gas station attendant trying to help my mom when she was gassing up. Clearly good intent but lack of knowledge of the type. I think if I was going to add a rod, I would color it impossible to miss by someone not familiar. Most gas struts are black. Seeing a carbon rod, why wouldn't an unfamiliar person assume it isn't one of those collapsible gas struts, even though to anyone with a brain it isnt? A broom handle is likely to be obvious. A barber pole painted carbon rod would probably be more obvious too, though it wouldnt add anything to the looks of the respective compartment. Id even consider a small orange flag on it, just something to highlight to that well-intentioned person that the rod needs to be removed first.

The trunk lid is more difficult, yet the engine lid is on the small side : and whether torsion rods could have performed well without being too obtrusive, extended across the sound pad. Done by Porsche in a tidy manner seems possible, as they were no strangers to torsion.

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Originally Posted by 62S-R-S

The trunk lid is more difficult, yet the engine lid is on the small side : and whether torsion rods could have performed well without being too obtrusive, extended across the sound pad. Done by Porsche in a tidy manner seems possible, as they were no strangers to torsion.

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The 914 for sure.;)

The trunk lid on these were perhaps 9x the weight of a 911 engine lid. Bmw used struts on the front, but went with torsion at the rear.

Latch and how well it worked, one of the best parts of owning it.


Attachment 613419