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Guys,
Being the rookie novice that I am, I've just realized that the USSpec Oil Cooling Line on my car is a bit hacked together. One of the original tubes is there, but the other has been spliced with pressurized tubing (see picture).
1 - Is this common?
2 - Is this safe for my engine (daily driver)?
3 - Does anyone know where I can get a true replacement?
Closer shot. The black metal tube is original (upper), the braided hose is not (lower). I need to find a new set. Any help is much appreciated - Larry - where did your guy find yours?
The car is a '73S, as I understand other years had different set ups.
You can still buy them from Porsche but be ready to bend over and grab your ankles. The top one is good but the bottom one is definitely "foreign".
Good luck,
Tom
Chris:Quote:
Originally posted by yopurp
Closer shot. The black metal tube is original (upper), the braided hose is not (lower). I need to find a new set. Any help is much appreciated - Larry - where did your guy find yours?
The car is a '73S, as I understand other years had different set ups.
He bought it from a local Porsche Parts Shop. He is on the east coast. These tubes are 6 ft long, and really tough to ship, which is why I didn't look for one that needed to be shipped. I will see if his source has another set.
larry
They come in the longest box you've ever seen. Ask me how I know. :D
Regards,
Tom
Chris:
You might want to go to the Pelican BBS and on the Classified Parts site,
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/forum...?s=&forumid=17
post a "WTB Oil Tubes - 73S" and see what shakes out. There are a lot of early Porsche guys that read that site, and for some reason don't show up here.
I have found a number of things for my car, including A/C parts, radio, oil cooler, etc.
larry
Unless you are interested in concours, you might want to look at the Finned cooling lines sold by Elephant Racing (http://www.elephantracing.com/).
Sorry Larry but I had to ask since the Elephant Racing site came up. Anybody here using monoballs?
I'll shut up and get back on track now.
Tom
Those finned boys aren't cheap either, jeez! Think I might keep looking for a used set. How much are they from Porsche? EASY here I come.
Tom, not me, I got a pair! :DQuote:
Originally posted by sithot
Anybody here using monoballs?
Tom
larry
Chris,
I'd try Porsche repair shops… then Porsche body shops...
In my experience sometimes these are good options when the new and used parts places can't help…
Another alternative is (haven forbid) using later (more easily obtainable) oil lines…
From the time 911's started using external oil coolers all the way to 1974 they put something different or changed locations of something almost every year…Cooler types, thermostat location, and how the lines run to each…
I think, like so many others things, they were sneaking up on the different problems: location for convince and heat... and finally got it right in 74' for the G series cars. Part of the proof is they didn't change them again until, man I don't even know, I think all the way through 89'.
The later oil lines have the thermostat just behind the rear torsion bar tube, still accessible but well away from the engine compartment and exhaust.
My car did not come with a cooler …
My solution was/is NOT concourse correct but it gave me the most efficient answer at the time…and guess what? … it's still there!
About 14 years ago I had the good fortune of having someone (Tony Gerase of TLG - Macro's dad) find and install a 72' small radiator type oil cooler (I felt more efficient then the trombone) along with late 74' type lines on my 73'S … no muss, no fuss… and the rest is history...
Just another way to solve the problem...
Good luck,
And Cheers
Chuck,
Thanks. Figured there are a number of alternatives, but since my car came with it as an option from the factory, I might try to find a real one. Do you think my current hose-patch set up is ok as a temporary solution?
I'll keep looking. I posted over on PP as Larry suggested, and I'll probably give EASY a call as well. Wonder if they're in today?
BTW - anyone (Tom?) know a part # for it? Tom mentioned a box, so where did you get yours? Can you still order these from Porsche? Hate to ask, but how much? Those Elephant lines are not cheap and I'm not racing the car.
Chris, you might want to rethink the elephant lines/rs cooler with no fan set-up. Evren had them installed on his '71 911E, and they have proven out well in the hot Turkish climate. I thought the set-up to be "way cool" when I looked at it, and the finned lines DO add cooling. Can't say the same for all the cooling gadgets out there...
Paul,
Yeah, they look neat and given the racing application, I'm assuming they cool quite well. But, they're like $800!! I live in a fairly cool area, and am not planning on tracking the car. If I can find original for less than $800 (a lot less), I'll go that direction. I'm going to live with it for a while and see how it goes. The thermostat regulator and coil are working, and since this was an option on the 2.4s, I'm assuming its not critical to basic operations. That said, I'm still looking for the factory part.
Tom - is the factory price more than Elephant? Does anyone have a factory part # for the upper and lower tubing?
PWD:
That is what I did. Got a 24 tube cooler, which was highly recommended over the trombone, the finned and the radiator variety, even with a fan. Then my wrench found some original tubes, and I am off and running. Again, not original, but Elephant had an article on their website about the temperature of the oil, viscosity of the oil, and engine life. Kind of makes you want to keep that oil REAL cool. Here is the link to the article.
http://www.elephantracing.com/techto...emperature.htm
I thought that this was interesting reading. Gave me second thoughts to all of those guys that said that I didn't need an external cooler in Chicago.
larry
Chris,
My 73' parts book says:
911.207.043.01 - Oil Feed Line
911.207.044.01 - Return Tube
Looks like the lower one is the Feed Line...
If you need any other numbers, I have a book mark on that page ... ;)
Hope this helps...
Cheers,
CHuck,
Perfect! You da man!
I had a crushed oil line and fixed it by going to Home Depot and getting some copper pipe and sleeves. I cut out the damaged section and soldered in the new copper pipe. I had the repaired pipe pressure tested at a radiator shop and for extra protection used JB weld on the connections.
This fix cost $5 and seems to work so far.
This is just a suggestion but I'm not a professional so take it with a grain of salt.
Philip,
I may get to that point. OE is impossible to find so far. The Elephant Racing ones are $800 ( and I ain't racing). Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, this 'issue' is falling lower on the priority list to others at the moment.
I may be mistaken, but the issue with this type of repair has to do with the flexing, work hardening and cracking of the brazed joint that occurs over time. Keep an eye on the line.Quote:
Originally posted by philip guiral
I had a crushed oil line and fixed it by going to Home Depot and getting some copper pipe and sleeves. I cut out the damaged section and soldered in the new copper pipe. I had the repaired pipe pressure tested at a radiator shop and for extra protection used JB weld on the connections.
This fix cost $5 and seems to work so far.
This is just a suggestion but I'm not a professional so take it with a grain of salt.
Chris:
Wondering how your car is doing? Did your local mechanic get the problems resolved, and was it simple to resolve?
larry
Still looking for a source for the oil line. The clamp that connects the hose/line to the oil cooler housing/thermostat is leaking pretty bad when the engine is running under pressure. Its heading up to Born2BFast today for a week's worth of fixes to a two page list of issues. I'll be on vacation, so giving the car back to them for a week isn't a big deal. What is a big deal is that they take care of the issues per their warranty. Stay tuned.
Still looking for a solution here. Anyone?
Hi ,Quote:
Originally posted by yopurp
Still looking for a solution here. Anyone?
Just speculating here but I would consider pulling the entire line off of the car intact and bring to a local hydraulic hose shop.
I would have them make up a flexible connector assembly for the leaking section by using a sweged hose and welding on appropriate fittings to each end of the good line.
Anyone see any problems with this approach?
We have a local hydraulic hose/gasket/fitting shop here in Richmond that can quite literally make anything for fluid transfer. They do a lot of work for heavy equipment and I'm quite sure that tackling a "small" oil line hose would be almost too easy.
You should take HarryDs advice and look for such a place.
Good luck,
Tom