Siren song for me

Hello all: I am very new to the early 11 cars and just became a paying member to support this great registry.

I currently own a 997 and am looking into owning an early car mainly to savor the nostalgia, the traditional noises/smells, analogue, visceral lithe feel.

Since its the DNA that I am after, I feel that a "clone/replica/hot rod" may be lacking in some respects. I am sensitive to the the cost of ownership of an early car especially it being a purely hobby car. It is disheartening (for me) to see asking prices of even S's just a few years ago in Panorama and now what they are asking now for those cars. But I do know for a fact that if I wait now, prices are only going to go up in 5 years.

I think Es and Ts are up my alley when it comes to prices. Here is my question: Disregarding numbers (performance), if all I am seeking is 'feel' please give me your pick for the year and model I should be on the lookout for and give me your reason for what you picked (if it is not too much of an inconvenience).

I am looking for a driver quality early car and have no interest to store it as an investment, take it to cars and coffee or compete in concourse events. I am really after I have owned a 3.2 Carrera which was a very good car but the early car is calling me. It is a Siren-song for sure.

I really appreciate the time taken to read my post and advance thanks for your assistance. I am thinking 2.4 T vs 2.2 T. Would love to hear all the answers.

'73T mfi. Welcome to early world.

A 2.2S, '70 or '71. Raw and pure!

66mm crank spins up quick, S cam comes on above 4500. Still light and responsive, visceral.

OK, sorry, you asked about T's and I gave my all time fav. Of the T's I would have to go with a 2.4 MFI.

2.2 T..... with airport gears. Breathtaking....


In any color - even the baby poo green..do that one in a military livery with fender staff flags...

Honestly, they are all great. I recommend buying a car that is in very good mechanical, structural and cosmetic condition above all else. That said, The T's offer very usable real world performance at a far more reasonable price than an S. the SWB cars 65-68 are the purest of the original design. The 2.2 cars have a fantastic short stroke sound, and love to rev. The 2.4's have the most torque of all. You really can't make the wrong choice.

There is no wrong answer. Buy the car, not the color. History, records and and if you get lucky, an enthusiast owner.

Good luck.

Tom

A 73 911E. Almost the same performance as the 2.2 S but at a reduced price. Or a 2.4 T. Although the interior is more of the original design on the 2.2 cars with basket weave and no foam in the interior seats that can turn into powder over time with the 72 & 73 cars. The 2.2 cars original material for seats is horse hair (DNA). It actually is coconut husk. The ultimate of pure design is the 1965 to 1968 cars, but at a reduced performance. Just depends what floats your boat. I still would go with a 2.4 T or E. Regards Chris

Thank you for all the replies. I also have a good friend who is my mentor whose advice I seek regularly too. My budget for a hobby car is not in the S or E range so I am narrowing the search the Ts. I did look at a 2.2T along with my mechanic and a Porsche body expert. Original car that has not been started in 9 years. Undersurface is clean but rust/bubbling in fenders and doors. Decent interior but dash needs to be replaced. I am looking at 40K total (includes cost of vehicle, body work to repair the car to bring it to a preservation class vehicle, not a full restoration and to make it a driver). Still hesitant to pull the trigger for a couple of reasons:


1. Should I hold out for a 2.4 T. Thoughts on 2.2 vs 2.4 T is all I am seeking is feel and not performance. Carbs vs MFI is really a deal breaker. I think not.

2. There may be CA rust free and with working engine around for under $50k. No ?

The search is half the fun :)

You can find a nice driver for under 50k. I doubt that you'll find a concourse car for that though. Buy the best car you can and if you are going to drive it and not buying for investment, I wouldn't pass up a clean 69T with a 3.0 for a not so nice original one. Repaints are frequently a slippery slope.......Mechanicals usually aren't...
JMHO
H

There is a substantial difference in driving a carb'd car vs. MFI. If you are after "the feel", I would recommend an MFI car. I have several cars with both, and the sound and response from the MFI is just superior. Carbs can be great and are certainly easier to maintain. Drive as many early cars as you can to get an idea of what YOU like.

I happened to walk by Cars Dawydiak in San Francisco this morning and they had a really nice looking 72 T silver coupe. I don't know the asking price but they have a website. Speak with Sam Cameron.

If anyone is interested I will be happy to look at the car.

Keep looking, there is always much more rust than you think, and ask yourself why was it not run in 9 years.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by super9064

Keep looking, there is always much more rust than you think, and ask yourself why was it not run in 9 years.

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50% more in hiding wouldn't be a stretch. :eek:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TeeItUp

. . . happened to walk by Cars Dawydiak in San Francisco this morning and they had a really nice looking 72 T silver coupe . . .

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VIN = 9112102009
Eng# = 6120001
Trans# = 327101

Seller's schtick . . .

. . . Silver Metallic over Black Leatherette, 2 owners, original CA blue plates, Factory A/C & Sunroof, Sport seats, Option group E65, US equipment, Light metal wheels, trim strips on rims, comfort equipment, Tinted glass, Dunlop tires, dealer installed replacement motor 8-31-73 @ 5775 miles dosumented in owners book, partial service stamp history, motor # 6120001, original motor #6123126, trans #327101, spare tire and jack but no tools, rust free, CoA, very nice paint, interior, wheels professionally refinished . . .

http://www.carsauto.com/1972-porsche-911-t-c-858.htm?

Damage = $69.9k

'. . . make an offer . . .'

(Not mine)

PM sent....

Hate to beat this issue to death but as someone who has not had a chance to drive very many examples of early cars and is still searching for one (or possibly custom building one) I am still trying to understand if MFI vs carb is a real deal breaker for someone in the market for an early car.

Am I right with the following statements:

1. Carbs when done right are very good also. Could I still have a 80 % feel of an early car for a lower price of admission (compared to MFI car).
2. More mechanics are comfortable with tuning/maintaining carbs
3. Carbs have some foibles but that is part of their nostalgia.

Sincerely

w00t

I'm one of those old school/Hard Korps/hairshirt types who likes old cars --- exactly because they're OLD, so . . . take my comments w/ that perspective in mind

If you're looking for something that you can drive around/use/fiddle with/etc, that most Mechanics are comfortable/familiar with, and that's easy/cheap to tune/live with? . . . . get carbs. Life will be easier for you. End-of-Story

But --- to me? . . . . MFI is such a signature bit of The Early 911 experience --- whether it's a T, E, or S . . . . and --- once you find The Right People who know/understand/can set-up + maintain the system? . . . . there are no issues

Yes --- it can be expensive to source/repair/set-up
Yes --- it's a kooky/old-fashioned/really amazingly inefficient way to get the job done
Yes --- carbs can be made to work as well/better

But . . . I didn't get my car because it was 'easy' to use . . . or 'cheap' to live with . . . or to make my Mechanic 'happy'



I got my car because it's a Porsche . . . and it's MFI system is something different/special . . . and that makes ME happy


My advice to anyone looking at these cars would be to ask yourself what you really REALLY want/expect outta these cars --- and why you're here . . . then? . . . .


. . . buy the car you like, at a price you can afford


And enjoy your choices

HtH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w00tPORSCHE

Hate to beat this issue to death but as someone who has not had a chance to drive very many examples of early cars and is still searching for one (or possibly custom building one) I am still trying to understand if MFI vs carb is a real deal breaker for someone in the market for an early car.

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There are a bunch of experts on this forum. I am emphatically NOT one of them...
I can only speak of the cars I've owned: one carbed, a CIS 73.5 T and now an MFI (72). Sadly not at the same time so I rely on memory...
Well.... I don't get what the big deal is... (The current car finally runs great, so please nobody tells me to go tune my MFI pump again ;-)
To me they they're all pretty cool to drive once tuned properly, and pretty crappy when not tuned well... and the MFI does not feel all that superior in throttle response, it just starts better than carbs and not as well as CIS, it seems ;-) I confess the one that ran the best under ALL conditions, and that enjoyed the most because I never messed with it, was actually the CIS! That kinda goes against the grain, so go figure...

Don't pigeonhole yourself to a specific model/year, which you will *not* find for sale when you are looking!!! Buy a nice car based on condition, enjoy what you get, and start telling the world that year is THE best one ever made, like we all do ;-)

Another thing that you may want to think about is gearboxes... Some swear by the dogleg 901s. Personally, I own other cars and switching to the dogleg drives me crazy, I hate having to occasionally look to see which gear I'm in. So to me, a 72-73 MFI with the 915 (modern pattern) is great. A 73.5 is also pretty cool, once those Depardieu bumperettes accidentally fall off ;-) Good luck !

P:S Price wise, I think you should be able to find somethign real nice under 50K. Under 40, even.... I have about 45 into my 72 and that's AFTER full engine/running gear/repaint.... Also think about short wheel base vs long... All of that to me is more of a differentiator than the fuel delivery system...