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So the one job I was dreading has bit me on the ass...
Fitting the hood up for gaps and getting the lock to align properly has left me with a hood that won't open! The spring loaded pin just won't let go (the finger trigger part is clearing). Cable isn't connected so it's in the default open position. I've banged and pulled, jacked the car up unevenly and pulled with no luck. Obviously I've got it cocked or loaded to one side.
Not sure where to go with it now? And advice would be great...
John,
I got mine stuck doing the same damn thing.
I ended getting it open with one person pulling up, and one pulling on the corner to get a bit of twist.
If you can see the plunger, you should know which way to pull.
You might try giving the hood a distinctive push backward(against the windshield) while you pull upwards.
Regards
Yeah, one-up today. I'll get an extra pair of hands...
I'm reading horror stories of having to drill etc...
Been there, I released mine by pulling, pushing all directions, it finally released. I had a friend that had the same problem he got his to pop by driving slowly on a bumpy road.
Battery is currently out of the car... Can't start it!Quote:
Originally Posted by rvdv
Can you see the plunger? If so you'll be able to see what side it is stuck on, if it is stuck on the N, E or west side you might try to loop a wire around it and pull in the opposite direction.
I can see, but really restricted in room. I'll see how I go with helping hands otherwise I'll try the wire. Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by rvdv
Don't lose hope. 99% of these stories over the years have had a happy ending. Mine took about two days of tweaking but finally came loose. You need just the right combination of pushing/pulling/twisting!
I've had luck with similar issues jacking up the corners of the car one by one and trying again each time.
Btdt... Brute force did not help, it just would not open. Finally I removed some gauges, reached through the holes with a small ratched and loosened the two bolts for the drivers side hinge. After the that the hood could be repositioned and popped open.
It's a MY69 so John can't get the gauges out with out opening the bonnet.Quote:
Originally Posted by PStey
I thought you could drill a hole and use some wire. True?
Isn't there an access plug between the lower apron and the front edge of the trunk, through which one can move the hood release catch?
Thanks for all the ideas guys. In the end, jacking the front left corner seemed to free the pin enough that a good hard yank popped it!
Do any of you guys have a routine to setting these lock sets up to avoid this pitfall?
Cheers
John
John,
I set mine up the second time (after getting it open) without the gas tank in, don't know if that's an option for you at this stage.
It allowed me to push on the plunger from the inside.
Tank is in and rigged up...
What I can definitely do is to pre-attach a cord to the pin which should let me release any side-load if it gets hung up again.
John when I fitted a new cable I used the hole in the lock with a drift slotted in there to hold the lock mechanism in place and then tensioned the cable. I am sure you know this however and maybe I am missing your point.
Hi Merv. My problem wasn't with the cable, it was a misalignment of the pin into the striker hole which got it hung up due to the side load on the pin... very frustrating!Quote:
Originally Posted by Merv
What I've done in the past is snug down the lid plunger/upper latch to just less than finger tight, then close the lid and center the plunger in the hole. You can then hold the upper latch mechanism, lift the hood and tighten the bolts. Double check the centering before closing.
Wow I had no idea that this is a problem. I must have gotten lucky...:eek:
There are a couple ways I use to do the centering; one is to lay masking tape across the receiver opening, then dab the pin with paint, lightly bring the hood down until the pin touches the tape, now you know where it will be. Another method is to use a vice grip clamped on the release handle to hold the handle all the way back which then keeps the moveable plate away from the hole. Then remove the spring from the pin, extend the pin most of the way down and bring the hood down until the pin is almost in the hole, then using a flashlight and mirror I can see exactly where the pin is and whether it is centered in the hole.
That's great info Ed.
Thanks Eminence and Ed, very good (and logical) advice!