What is the normal oil temp range for my 66 911?

Hello from Niagara, I recently purchased a 66 911 with the intentions of returning it to original. It is a nice driver quality car with 113,000 miles, no A/C and with the normal issues a 48 year-old car is expected to have. (hope this isn't too vague?)

I took the car for a drive today, approximately 1.5 hours with avg speed around 70 km/hr. Temperature today was 28C (82 degrees F), a few stops and hills and not much traffic.

My oil temp gauge reads from 60-140 (image below) and the hottest it reached was 100, is this considered normal?

Opinions appreciated.
Mike

Attachment 301181

Attached the wrong photo, not sure how to edit out, if moderator can assist please do so or disregard image of shifter, thanks.

Yours is a euro gauge (maybe an euro car!) that reads in degrees C. 180F = 82.2C, of course 100 is 212. So between 80 and 100 is a fine range, higher than 100 is running hot, 120 is too damn hot (RIP Bruce Anderson).

If you see THIS you need to immediately check your ignition advance and do a leakdown test. . . something is WRONG!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1119886262.jpg

Thank you 304065 for this, I'm in the process of collecting data to identify the history of the car and would like to know if it is a euro car.

If I were to see temps above 110 degrees C what should I be on the lookout for?

Thanks again for the input,
Mike

Mike, if you end up with very high oil temperatures under normal operation (not on the racetrack, and not in conditions of high density altitude like hot, high, humid) then the first thing I would check is your ignition timing. Distributors wear out over time and when they do, you end up with worn advance pivots and stretched springs, that allow more than the maximum advance at high RPM (like 40 degrees). This can cause your operating temperatures to skyrocket. The associated detonation can also break the rings, resulting in significant frictional losses and damage to the pistons and cylinders.

The second thing I would check is fuel mixture by using a wideband lambda gauge. Just by using E10 pump gasoline, the stochiometric ratio drops to 14.1, and any kind of clog in your fuel system can result in the mixture going lean. Our engines use fuel as a coolant whether we like it or not, so a mixture on the lean side of stochiometric can cause higher temperatures. Likewise a very rich mixture, which will burn so slowly that the peak pressure point is well past 20 ATDC, can put a lot of heat into the exhaust system.

So timing first, then fuel. Of course if the engine hasn't been rebuilt in 100,000 miles, it could be that it's just worn out, but check the obvious causes first.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 304065

Mike, if you end up with very high oil temperatures under normal operation (not on the racetrack, and not in conditions of high density altitude like hot, high, humid) then the first thing I would check is your ignition timing. Distributors wear out over time and when they do, you end up with worn advance pivots and stretched springs, that allow more than the maximum advance at high RPM (like 40 degrees). This can cause your operating temperatures to skyrocket. The associated detonation can also break the rings, resulting in significant frictional losses and damage to the pistons and cylinders.

The second thing I would check is fuel mixture by using a wideband lambda gauge. Just by using E10 pump gasoline, the stochiometric ratio drops to 14.1, and any kind of clog in your fuel system can result in the mixture going lean. Our engines use fuel as a coolant whether we like it or not, so a mixture on the lean side of stochiometric can cause higher temperatures. Likewise a very rich mixture, which will burn so slowly that the peak pressure point is well past 20 ATDC, can put a lot of heat into the exhaust system.

So timing first, then fuel. Of course if the engine hasn't been rebuilt in 100,000 miles, it could be that it's just worn out, but check the obvious causes first.

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Thanks again for the detailed response, there may be a few issues at play here from your suggestions. Because I'm not mechanically inclined I will have this looked at by my tech, however, I don't believe the engine has ever been rebuilt?

Really appreciate the response,
Regards,
Mike

I agree with all that John has posted, but at this point for those conditions you didn't get too hot in my opinion. If you had been running 230 F. I would be more concerned. What was your oil pressure under load? For starters, being a 66, you can easily remove the plate covering the oil cooler and make sure the fins aren't clogged with gunk.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edmayo

I agree with all that John has posted, but at this point for those conditions you didn't get too hot in my opinion. If you had been running 230 F. I would be more concerned. What was your oil pressure under load? For starters, being a 66, you can easily remove the plate covering the oil cooler and make sure the fins aren't clogged with gunk.

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edmayo, thanks for confirming John's suggestions. Regarding your question... while cruising it remained pretty consistent at the 4 hash mark, under load it went to and above 6 maybe closer to 7+. I will look at having the fins cleaned as a precaution regardless.

Appreciate the input once again,
Mike

Since you have metric gauges I'm sure you realize your oil pressure is in 'bars' one 'bar' being 'about' 15 psi. so 4 bar is 60 psi and 7 bar is 105 psi. Your oil pressure is fine!!