How to best install engine - tips wanted

Thanks all !!

Thanks Tom.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheTorch

A few notes, depending on your year and transmission -- these may be of use:

• Hooking up the starter cables is easier if you do it when the engine is about halfway up. Hooking up the starter wires when the motor is fully seated was one of my most curse-filled episodes.
• If you have a mechanical speedo you cannot easily re-attach the cable with the trans cross mount in place. So either lift the trans without the cross piece, or get the motor/trans in place, support the trans, remove the support, attach the tach cable and boot, then re-attach the cross piece.
• Some 915 clutch cables have to go through a hanging loop by the front nose of the transmission. Far easier to slide the cable through this loop as you start to lift the motor and trans. Getting the bolt/nut installed around the clutch cable with all the other stuff around the bellcrank (heater cable, parking brake cable, fuel lines, etc.) is a royal PIA.
• Thread the 2 large transmission mount bolts BEFORE you snug up the 4 bolts on the transmission as they are finer threads and can be cross threaded rather easily. This is not fun to fix with everything in the car.
• Personally, I find removing the rear axles completely makes the drop / reinstall much easier and less messy. Otherwise it seems I keep fighting the axles, getting grease on everything, etc. You just have to get new inner and outer cv flange gaskets (if your car has them).
• Double check that your release fork is properly seated in the throwout bearing when you mount the trans to the motor. If it isn't, you will be doing this whole procedure all over again.

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Very helpful - Thanks

Thanks Scott ... I will use your method .... I will be doing this by my self
the last time i put a 911 motor in was probably 30 years ago.
I did it by my self with a floor jack and wrestled it in.
i dont think i could win that wrestling match today....

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When I worked as a tech years ago I supported the rear of the car with jack stands under the left and right torsion bar ends. Wheels stayed on. Engine and transmission are installed (and removed) as a unit. Going slowly and carefully was how I was taught. When I was doing this regularly, I could remove the engine/trans unit easily within an hour.

I install the carbs after the motor is in place. I’ve seen way too many Weber’s with an air correction screw boss broken off.

For those without a lift, and using the floor jack method. Put a open paperback book inside the metal jack cup. It helps stabilize the engine to jack connection and prevents damage to the case. I also remove the muffler prior, so the jack handle does not dent the bottom. Rob

The paperback book seems like a great idea .