Adding a jack pad

I've got a 67N that is at the bare metal stage. The jack spurs had been removed from the car before I got it. I'm thinking about adding a jack pad rather than replacing the jack spur. Has anyone done this? Where did you put it? We've been thinking about boxing in some steel behind the front fender where the pinch weld turns a corner.

One more idea. Take some 1/8" strap steel, bend it into a very narrow U so that it fits closely over the pinch weld between the front and rear fenders. Weld it in place. That should be strong enough to use as a jack point, maybe with a 2 foot 2x4 to spread the load a bit. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Alan

On my race car that I knew was going to get a lot of abuse, I bought 914 lift pads from Automoble Atlanta the 914 place, sliced a grove in the mount and welded them over the pinch seam on the floor pan in 4 places. In the front where the seam turns to come back along the sides and the rear just ahead of the spring plates. These were the places I always put the hoist arms while a line mechanic. The car has been on my hoist hundreds of times and on jack stands at the track and have held up great. I did weld up the spur for reinforcment because I do use it with a jack plate to raise the car at the track to put it up on stands. Look at any 914 and you will see the pads I'm talking about. Gordon

I saw this on a RUF CTR at Watkins Glen. It seems like a perfect solution that would give anyone lifting a car, who's not familiar with 911s, a clue where to put the lift arms and not crush anything. I'm surprised the factory didn't do something like this.

I like Bob's solution on his speedster project:

Hi Alan,

This is something we did on all the race cars. For the race cars we went a little further than what I have done on my street cars but based on the same ideas. For the race car we would weld a flat plate at the jack point and then add plates on the inside and fore and aft. This way on a pit stop the jackman could just hit the plate and push in untill he hit the inside stop and start jacking knowing he was in the spot.

For my car knowing I was not going to need that type of brail setup so we just cut a section of 3" dia tube and welded to the pan at the jack point. We also setup position points for jack stands. For this we cut a 3" length of tubing in half and welded it over the seam pinch where I wanted to locate jack stands in the future. We then cut some narrow strips of the half tube and welded them to each end of the 3" tube to keep the jack stand in place. It also aids in positioning when reaching under the car. You can feel that you are in place.

I do not know how to circle or point on the photos but I think you can see what we did.


While I was finding photos Curt was posting, why am I not surprised that he can find copies of my photos faster than I can.:D

BTW You can position the jackstand points where ever you like them and no longer have to use suspension points which alows you to work on said suspension.

Those photos were in my "things I want to do to my car some day" file - easy to find :D

Same here. (The photo's are with the car on it's side). Tube cut to short length, notched to fit over the seams and welded for jack points.

For shop use I welded a small frame for a roll-around cart. The cart has smaller tube inserts that slip into the 4 jack point tubes for a positive fit and they can't slip off even when pushed onto the lift, over threshold changes or onto the trailer. 5" casters were then added to the cart.

The jack point tubes will have nylon caps for jacking duty (so it won't scratch the paint/under coating).

I've been thinking about using a pair of rally sill stands that would fit into the jack spurs.